AKheathen

well, i don't think you can even measure spark voltage with 95% of meters out there, and even if that was right, you need at least 10,000 volts to make a plug fire. read through the tech documents on thissite, they are stickied in this section, and availiable from the homepage. you can also use a sparkplug box to set the gap on the flywheel. i'm leaning twards a bad coil, because that's about the voltage you would see going into the coil, but it could possibly be the stator or flywheel, too.

what happened to your old one?

start by turning your airscrews in to 1.5 turns from seated and warm it up. then turn them in a little at a time giving time for the engine to catch up, or out, untill it reaches highest rpm, and tun in a little bit after that. also, replace your plug caps (boots) if they are old, and check the pickup gap clearance on the flywheel.

no, trust me, i should have fouled them, and would have fouled the ngk's several times. my ridding conditions and jetting needs change more frequently than gas prices. sometimes several times a ride. that's why i'm going to lectrons with power jets. i made the switch on my sno-go several years back, too.

practice, and patience. you get it done quicker by going slower and steady i just slide it on, then the outter plate holding with my fingers, then slip the clip in there and go. only takes a min. you are not trying to do it on the sprocket, or with tension are you?

just to clarify the above post, it's mostly for high hp bikes drag/dune. for most bikes you can just get a good clutch, and mabey hd springs without slipping. they don't just normally slip when you hit the gas, unless the clutch is already smoked. you just run one once you reach the point that you need it because the clutch won't hold up otherwise

well, you can run normal br8es plugs no problem. you might need to gap them down just a little. i run the denso irridium plugs p/n iw24 and i love them. they are verry foul resistant and perform great, imo. i have run the same set for a year and only removed them to do a plug chop, and get water out of my cyls.

have you tried replacing the plug caps and ohming the coil? then ohm the harness, stator, and check all grounds. you mean the 2 spade connectors on the harness side is getting 16-19v?

i would start 2 sizes higher. and about the twist throttle- it's been nice knowing ya, lol

i would have to initially say stick with 21, and still add some timing on bb. however, it could be smaller, depending on the conditions. what alt. and porting do you have? timing?

you lookin for anything else? i'm interested in a tranny to play with....shoot me a pm

25 for the amp link? and, my durablue axle has no threads, it uses clips and a special splines 2 peice nut, just to let ya know

sumbitch! you early poster, lol. i shoulda stayed up another hour to get that bracket, lol

i cannot agree with that at all.....in fact, i believe the exact opposite. larger venturi on the same motor = less draw on the jet= leaner, meaning you need larger jets. i went from the stock 26 rounds, to 30mm rounds and jet size went from 340 up to 380-390 on the 30's. now, different style venturi/slide/needle jet configurations can pull fuel differently, calling for a change either direction, but as a rule of thumb- bigger needs bigger

oh, well, 35's will work fine, but personally, i am using lectron 30's for my woods 4mill, and you would probably do good with some 33's, imo, but the 35's will get you a tad more topend. best thing i can tell you is to search for the thread that has everyon's jet size and what setup, and go from there. 26-35 is kind of a big jump to try and cross reference sizes.

sounds really lean, like there is an air leak, most likely on the cylinder not firing. i would check that first, then go from there

from what i have heard, they tend to break easier, and put alot more strain on the chain and output shaft. also, what size tires are you running? mabey consider running a 22" tire before dropping teeth in the rear

can you pc over ceramic coating, like from swaintech? and how much would it run to do the headders?

price/info on the throttle, and sprocket???

well, what other mods do you have and what kind of ridding do you do? 35 may be way too big...

yah, ok that still doesn't tell us what the fuck it is.......like where is it located on the exhaust, and if it is even a mount. it could've been for a pyro sensor, or something.......

well, for a woods port, the pro-circuits will match better, plus i'm a huge fan of pc's and the long ass powerband from down low

well, start by bringing the front up to a 13, since 12t fronts are nown for failure, and see how you like it. tire size and powerband characteristics, along with terrain will be the real deciding factors, but that will still be pretty low geared, and perhaps you may like it, or will want to go down further in the rear to pick up some more topend.

you can hit up wildcard and get some packard pj's for alot cheaper.....

here's on last thaught.......is your master cylinder adjusted right? if it hits the clutch cover and not let the rod fully extend, then it won't want to suck the new fluid in as you bleed and pump