AKheathen

where are you located?

clean out your iac and pcv valves, and put a meter on the tps, and slowly move the throttle open/close near idle, and see if the ohms read smoothly with the moovements, or jump around. also, put a fuel pressure gauge on it. was this something that happened after tune-up, or did you do the tune-up because it's acting like this?

yah, that doesn't look like the dd with the 7 bolts, more like a modquad mabey, but you can probably get a nice new modquad from alfie, a site sponsor, cheaper. or, is it pro-design? it says protech design in the discription....

well, these ones are pre-dented for installation, lol

yah, i've seen and run a few of those like that. just make sure the mounting area is clean for good contact. you put some sort of oil, or rust treatment on there?

only numbers on there is the 2.0 slide cutout. the 2 slides should mirror each-other, except for the little dot near the bottom on the side. it's next to the idle screw ramp on the right slide, and next to the allignment groove on the left slide

well, figure out where your timing is set first, and you should be somewhere in the 95 to 100 oct. requirement, granted you are on stock cyls, near stock bore, and your squish is between 035" and .050" and not weird angle for other pistons/fuel. go look for some 100LL at a small airport, or commercialish fuel station....it's about the highest regulated fuel you will find, and run awesome at all elevations. ususally only a little more than premium, too. if you are worried about "low lead" rating, don't be.......i've ran the same plugs on it for over a year, and they are still really clean, etc.....

well, i have bothe slides in my hand, and stock carbs have dots drilled in the slide in the same place on both.

whatever did not come with the basket, you replace. it bolts through the big thrust plate-gear/coushins/backing plate, just like stock, from what i understand.....that's what i'm doin with mine...

there is little dots on the slides that likne up with the windows in the side whe they are right.........otherwise there is something wrong......id there burrs on the holes you drilled? is a slide dowel falling out?

less than 50# and no huge difference, and 15# is a change in gear. the shock difference is simple leverage ratios, if you are still interested. so you take the known 185# setting at swing pivot to link mount:swing pivot to axle center, then new link mount to piot:new axlecenter to pivot mount. so, 185:a known b:c known a/185= c/b bx185= new rider valved weight

main sounds fine. bring the needle up one clip (4th from the blunt end) and try it. if you still have stock needles, that may, or may not help ballance 1/4-12 and 1/2-3/4

hey, if you like how it performs, and not haing issues with tuning or performance, then keep it up with what you got. if you are looking for better power, then look into pipes right now

x2 on the 280 to start, but you may get away with 25 pilot and 1 turn oon the airscrews. could need 260 or 270. snorkel?

hard to get you real close........are the 34's and pods a new thing solely, or with the whole topend and pipes all at once? also, your elevation and riding temps are needed. what fuel will help also

now, those are some big ass boost ports, lol. just what kind of porting is it?

wtf kinda bs is that? don't post shit if you are not gonna sell it............it was and will still be a big waste of my time to plan allot of shit around this purchase...but that's my bad for trusting. suddenly selling locallyfrom under me is one thing, fucked or not, but trying to justify it as ok is chicken shit....

sweet........you get my pm a few days ago?

actually, you need the longer distance between the ports ton get the same timings once you add stroke, since the degree/distance changes. this is the main reason most ported stock stroke cyls cannot be re-ported for longer stroke. you will still give up allot of power by not touching the transfers, either way you go

that's fucked up man......i thought we had a deal, just waiting on the shipping total.

lookin for a crank, or the whole bottom end?

not quite sure what you are talkin about on the cable retainers? there's only steel, and aluminum peices.....

you have a core? pm me. i have a few re-wraps ready

lol, true, but he is also only gettin 11 ohms on the ignition windings...2 issues.

lol, hell yah, that's just the window info, but a good porter will shape the rest of the flow appropriately, unless it's just another 4stroke porter following a templet...........and, how did i miss that guys' post? yah, "extrudehoned" or simply "pollished" on anything but the exhaust will alow the atomized fuel to find the "calm" area aginst the smooth surface and fall from the air......texture provides turbulance, like you find on a golf ball, and creates a coushin of turbulant air that allows the full charge to slide on past, like an air lubricant. this keeps the full mixed charge suspended, and not falling/collecting on the surfaces.......ok, i'm not gonna lie.....i'm drunk right now......and, you can milti-quote mopar, for one post, not 6, or whatever, lol