AKheathen

well, if you are just looking for stock replacement, then look around on the for sale section here, then ebay, for a good used stocker. if you want more lighting power, then i would have to say that moose stators would be the best bet, for off-the-shelf, but a re-wound stocker will be the most reliable.

x3 on the unbolting it. you can get some air trapped in the line anywhere there is a high point in the line and the fluid will just keep going past the air as you bleed it and never purge....kinda like a p-trap. you can gravity bleed or conventional bleed, or even install an auto-bleeder with a check valve, and hook a hose to it and run back to the rezivoir and just pump it fast untill all the air comes out, but don't let the piston over-extend in the caliper....

playing with meth is for tweakers with beakers, lol.......well, to answer the part about power, yes, it will be a trado-off to a point between topend and mid-low. if you are just using a plate, that is.......and for pump gas, you can range between +7 to -7 on pump for desired results. retarding the timing will gain more topend and overrev, and more advance will get you stronger bottom to mid. +4 timing on the plate is generally the best ballance on most setups for gaining stronger mid and not making any noticeable sacrifices to the topend. now, if you are running different fuels, wish to move the power a little, or need to prevent detonation, you can set it elsewhere, just play with it. another option is to run a programable cdi and use custom curves that advance it in the mid-low, while retarding higher rpms

well, the problem is isolated to it not pushing enough current to the cdi. what it's doing is just providing a tiny bit at a time untill the cdi builds enough to fire. check the flywheel magnets, roundness, in case someone tried to remove it not using the proper puller, then check the ground on the timing plate where the harness attatches to the back side, and chase the wires from the stator to the cdi for good continuity. and the ground loop back by the voltage regulator. if everything ohms out, and you can't find melting, or poor connections anywhere, then it looks like it is, indeed, the stator. i have personally seen this happen. oh, and i would look around for a good used stocker, or you will get raped most likely

not quite sure what i'm looking at.......,,.try a pic that shows more of it.....

sweet ass shit!

well, while you are in there and have the bowls of, check to see which bowl is which. the bowl that goes on the choke carb has a small jet, similar to the pilot jet in the pic below....if you mix it up, you will have the same problem you have now...... now, the proper way, and the only way the choke can actually work, is to not touch the throttle, just pull the choke out and kick it over. properly tuned, should only be 1-3 kicks, mabey 4 sometimes.

whoa, that sucks. make sure you have the correct float bowl on the left side. oh, and you should look around before ordering from a dealer. i bet you could've got a pretty nice cover for the price you paid on that stock one.

well, if it works with the choke, then the choke circuit, including the choke jet, is working. look for airleaks bu spraying carb cleaner around the intakes/reeds while it is running, and pry the carb around while you do it, to show any leaks better.....the idle will change when you spray a leak. if it doesn't show, since the cylinder isn't firing, then use some starting fluid or gas. check the float to see if it's moving right, and set right, and the pin is all the way in. did you remove the float needle/seat and make sure there is not junk in there? is the washer behind the main jet? that washer holds the emultion tube in place, and if it slides up a little, then the carb will only pull air around it, and really no fuel. you can see it pop up if you look through the filter side

210? damn, run some deisel, lol......seroiusly though, i know, even first-hand, that higher octane will net lower power, when you go higher that what is needed. now, a motor that needs higher octane will make more tq. than one that needs less resistance, just to clarify....

got my lectrons, safe, sound, and purdy as hell. great deal, and good guy. thanks alot QUIKSHEE -HEATH H.-

hey, you still lookin?

first, go over all your stock grounds and look for wire melting by the exhaust. there is an engine ground on the stator plate where the wires clamp on. and a frame ground back by the voltage regulator. and clean that coil mount......

plugs don't just come loose on vibration. other than deto, it would only happen from overtightening and/or thread damage

well, they may not be needed, but if you ride alot of different places with different jetting needs, such as heading to the beach, or up the mountains, then you would really love them, since you won't have to change jets anymore, just reach down and adjust

looks awesome, lol

yah, the washers go on either side of the bearing......dumb q- you didn't assemble it on the outside of the pressure plate, did you? can't tell form the pic. also- try putting your clutch packs in to set it.......

your airscrew and possibly pilot is set too rich. remember to tune everthing in the carb for a hot engine only

you have to measure the bore next to the slide, at its' smallest point. you can use a toothpick and trim it untill it just barely fits, then measure the toothpick. the stock carbs will come to be almost 28mm if you just measure the bore where it clamps into the intake boots.

well, that's up to 13:1 and based on a 4stroke aplication, which this is not x2, you definately should know the squish clearance and band/angle. going a little more conservative can solve deto problems, and mabey a little sacrifice that you wouldn't notice. I push the octane limits pretty far by running all the way up @ .052" clearance. also, what range is it set for? topend power? mid-top? perhaps, you don't need so much compression or timing. it could yeild better by turning it down, but that's what was suggested for a reason. well, then that is not really "110" by the math. perhaps that is a problem.also, make sure you do not over-tighten the plugs when you put them in. if you over compress the ealing ring, it can just streatch the treads out when it heats up. follow the directions of the plug-i think only 5/8 turn after it hits the seal ring

holy crap, i forgot about that..... i stll have 1/2 the writup saved on my comp. lol

well, keep changing the jets untill you get your wot good, and do a plug chop to confirm. THAT IS THE SIZE YOU NEED. then you play with the needle, and likely have to change it. then, you get your pilot done. i'm not real familiar with non-mikuni carb jet sizes, so someone else should chime in.

and don't forget that everything is jetted for a hot engine

damnit, that's about a perfect deal for me, lol

i have the same head all pollished up like that. really nice, and takes the same noss/pro-design parts. her's mine installed... free bump