AKheathen

i'm assuming you have tried the #0000 steel wool already? start with a concentrated simple green soak, then wash it out really good. then pollish it up with the highest silicate metal polish you can find. look for "metal clean" it think is the name. i don't have the can in front of me, but it works really well in severl initial coats, like 6, and will polish rusted steel to a mirror shine that repels water. it's definately worth the try....i'm goin after my 20's next month when the salt spray finishes washing off the roads.

slack off the cable and see how much play the arm on the case has before it hits the clutch release......if there is more than 1/4" it's too loose. then you suck it up with the cable with just a little play before it hits. other than that, look at all the gears and make sure the hub is on tight, and kicker is correct.

well, you do have the books to give you the numbers.......start with your desired exhaust time/are to match the pipes, then raise the transfers to the desired blowdown, and shape to port time/area again, and keep them perfectly symetrical from right-left, and anlyize where and when the flow from every port is going to converge in the trapped area to get the right shape. open the intake enough to match the flow of everything else, but not exceed it or the piston windows..........putting the wormholes in yourself are a bad idea, it is real tricky/precise, and requires welding half the time.

first thing you need to do is a proper carb sync to the letter.....without the tool. i would almost bet money that you will find the cables too tight. other than that, you can have moisture in there, which will do the same thing as an airleak. if the choke is doing anything, then you know you have the bowls on right, too.

hmm, never tried to push the tack oil through the water, lol.......and that was what i was thinking about the foam and solvent, so i never did it, but if meat here has done it several times and not damaged it, even ringing it out, then i guess it doesn;t harm it.........if it did, then it would fall to peices in your hands, or at least rip.....unless it's a fuel oil in the solvent tank, not solvent, then that changes things, lol oh, and yes, i read all of your long posts, lol......i always wonder the same thing about my long ones, too.

well, yah, if the top threads are messed, then you start by chasing it through the bottom, lol. they should have known that. if there is not enough meat, then tyou can buy a sparkplug thread repair kit made just for that. i had to do it on an s-10 2200 that i bought where someone tried to remove hot plugs and galled the threads.

might have allo better luck throwing it in wanted, and mabey offering to kick a few bucks for an item or 2.........that's what i did a whle back. most people just want a little to do it.

why not ban any really bad douchbag seller/buyer from the banshee f/s section? just a thought

WHAT????? ok, the only thing at all that the color black has to do with thermal anything is that the color black is the abscence of color, meaning it absorbs all light, thus absorbing heat from the sun.............the shit they teach you in like 3rd grade, lol. aside from that, any color paint will insulate it from transfering heat BECAUSE THERE IS A LAYER OF PAINT that heat needs to transfer. aside from repetedly spraying an evaporative liquid, like gas or alchohol, bare metal is the best for transfering heat to the air.... your theory= truth= 'nuff said

did you use champion or autolite or something?

i bet you could fiv it yourself by running a 7/8 drill bit, or reamer with 45-60 degree in the holes on the bottom, and put the 10 o-rings in there

x2 on cleaning it out first thing...may need to use a toothbrush, and remove it to get it good, and make sure it gets good contact where it bolts to the plate, and only use a flywheel puller made for that flywheel

go to the auto parts store, and they should have "tune-up grease" use that in the boots, and where the wires go in. it will work like a charm. you probably should clean everything with electical contact cleaner first. i ride through creeks/rivers quite often, lol

oven will work fine, and not burn off the oil...go like 50 degrees higher, because it will cool on the way to put it on.........

well, at that price, you kinda got what you paid for, but i would have probably asked for pics of the "dents" for sure. and the wobble marks are kinda messed up to not disclose, but i would have to see them in person. mabey -20 on the price, mabey. i would've bought them knowing they look like that and fixed them.....yes, i can fix them, so if you want to dump them cheap, i may be interested in just the rims.

unpainted will be fine, lol. and they do make thin paint that allows heat transfer. you might run into a some corrosion on them after several years.....severl years

oh, man...i hope that yamabond doesn't gum up in the threads, lol.....i would have used the blue non-hardening rtv...just aboiut the best for many coolant system parts

well, i would keep that much localized heat away from the crank, especially that part, which has been known to crack and break

did you replace the o-ring where the tube mates between the cases and clutch cover? is your impeller shaft grooved out? also, check your case vent and overflow hoses....mabey you connected the wrong one to the radiator.

didn't mean to offend, lol...it's just an easy/cheap fix. and, yes, they do go bad after a while, since it's just a really brittle core inside giving the resistance, and can crack. the lower resistance one was probably that way for a while, and the really hich one probably just happened, but was working and keeping the one side sparking stronger, so they probably didn't just go out at the same time.

i never reuse a head gasket that has been through a few heat cycles......especially hot enough to melt a piston, lol. it's your call to risk it over a $12 gasket. and, i would use a fine ball if possible. i would have really pulled the head before ordering anything.

well, that vid, they tested "gause" filter, and there is actually a difference in the media.....big diference. i have k&n's in front of me, as well as the "k&n style" gause knock-offs.......i've run all types over many years on toys, and big toys, lol. where they are different, is the k&n patented strung and crosslaid matts overlaping in several alternating layers. the other brands, such as what comes with my airbox adapter and aerospeed/aem, etc cone clamp-ons, is a single random sprayed fine fibre matt. WHY this matters- well, the fine fibres that are randomly laid create high and low density areas, with no real structure to keep it more into place @ rated flow. the air will flow higher in these areas, and open those up to larger holes, allowing larger particulates through. this becomes allot worse, as it plugs, and when using the wrong cleaning/drying methods. now, the k&n matts, on the ther hand, are laid in there in a way that the air flows through a labrynth, changing direction amany times, the way any oiled filter is supposed to work, even the foams. now, i will agree, the only way to damage the foam is tearing it, or blasting holes through it with compressed air...aside form environmental occourence, like burning on the exhaust. however, a well treated name brand k&n will provide more than enough protection against harmfull particulates. they way to kill it's effectiveness.....1- under oiling, oviously.....2-over oiling and running high flow, which can colapse it and damage the gause, just like........3- not cleaning it......4- cleaning and drying it using compressed air and high water pressure, like you get from normal and unaerated tap water falling near the bottom, or up against the filter. this damages the gause, and foces it to start to open holes....and 5- phusical damage. to debunk the infomercial there.......the little peice of gause filter used there is half the size rated for 1-115cfm 30mm carb, overloading and damaging the underoiled gause almost instantly as soon as he flipped the switch. now, if he had pulled the test with the rated cfm for the filters, and had k&n oil their new filter before, you would not see the same results, but 'eh it's an infomercial. do you think snuggies are cool after laughing 'till you pee with that dude wearin one? not me. i would also like to say i chose to run uni foam pods on my sno-go, and blaster, so i am not anti foam. i love both styles in many aplications, even have seen some verry nice paper fiters, which i have run in a few cars. i just don't think that all the k&n shit talking is well founded and defined, as the foams are in this thread. in closing, i would like to state a few thigs....... is the foam filter a nasty, undesireable mess to clean, or even touch? hell yah, i hate doing them. do they work well? yes. many good things are a pita, or diffcult to deal with, like grease.....i REALLY hate grease, but use the piss out of it. is k&n able to provide really high protection? yes, but you have to take care of it. so, it's a trade off of dealing with the mess/looks, or being really carefull. and outterwares are for both styles to block wet material like water and mud, on all style filters. so, here is my 200cents about it. oh, and for the origional issue in this thread- remove those 1" reed spacers and see where you are at. i suggest the tapered/cone style 10 degree filters, like i see every day from one of the sponsors.....i think it is mull that sells them

most likely hasn't melted through the ring land all the way, or deto'd around the squish, which means, yah. just piston/rings/hone that side.......and fix the airleak

i'm suddenly not getting them as of yesturday, i think.........and not an hour ago..... ok, getting them now...

lol, they are 5k caps.......replace both and set your puckup gap with a sparkplug box....i bet it runs 100x better after that.......don't froget to trim 1/4" off the end of the plug wire before you screw the new caps in