AKheathen

exactly...........if the flywheel is loose at all, it will most likely sheer the key, or the chattering will weld the taper. if you are lucky, like most, it just sheers the key, or spins the nut off, but there is always that 20-30% chance it will weld, and either you won't get it off later, or it will pull some of the crank with it.

i'm sure i've heard plenty running it in the pokers.......just a tid-bit.....100LL contains the same amount of lube as leaded, because it is needed with the fuel. we premix, so it wouldn't be a problem, but, since it's a "dry aeromatic" it would otherwise wash away any other lube that was presesnt. it has a lead substitute, so you get the valve and cylinder protection, without the build-up. ok, back to it making more power.......i bet you can mix the race fuel, and pump to get equal octane, and it will still have more energy. i mix mine at 50/50 100ll, and 90pump with 185psi and +5.5, but the cr and pipes match it right, so it's a good balance. i would be less focused on getting your cr and timing to match the fuel, and more focused on what compression and timing will run best for your style/preference, and then run the octane that matches your build... so, vismark, you could just mill/re-chamber the head, or buy a cool head for the wife's bike, and set the timing, and run the same fuel....if you guys ride together, she is gonna want the added bottom and mid, anyways.

you sure it didn't leak into the cylinders? most people i see end up with a leak without them. there are a few main things that cause overheating........jetting, bad coolant, bad water pump, and lack of air flow through the radiator, from moving slow, or folded fins

you don't really want to do more than laping......it will stick on there like super-glue once you tighten the nut down....and may not want to come off later, lol.........i know that it will not go anywhere if you heat it up before you put it on....not a huge amount of heat...like a couple min with your wife's' blow-dryer. you don't want to use anything but the shoulder nut. a nyloc and hard washer won't hold well. you might be able to find a shoulder pinch nut, though.

once you lap it, it should hold on there real good, and it shouldn't make a difference how hard, etc the key is. the key isn't supposed to have any load on it. it's just for installation allignment. at work, we put the taper seat gear on the 2cyl compressors and just a dab of blue loc-tite on the threads. zap it with an impact and call it good. there is no key, and they handle 10x the load.... i have had my flywheel come loose without loc-tite, but never made a difference between the napa key and stocker.

how wide are they?

ttt.......titties!

well if all you are doing is pipes, reeds, and filters, then the tr-6's are just about be the most efficient. if you wanna think about buing a coolhead, or milling/re-chambering the stock head for more compression, and advance the timing with a timing plate, then you can definately jump up to some more top-end pipes. porting will be a huge difference, as well. i hear auspuff goldspeed pipes are big over on your side of the world, then there is t-5's, cpi, and, ROCKETS....yah, those were a big rage this year, and everyone seems to like them for dune/trail. whatever you do, timing and compression just might get you that bump you are looking for to beat the other piped bikes. and, you don't have to spend a fortune doing it. more than half the time, just learning how to keep it jetted just right will also keep you ahead of the pack.

i would first swap the carbs out for some 28's or 30's, and it will do better, then worry about the pipes after......the sst's will work fine, but, of course, i like pc's. sst's are a real wide band pipe, like t-6's but much better if you mod much. i'd say start with just the carbs, and see how you like them.....

i think the top half of the head shell is already off......the stud o-rings are supposed to be between the 2 half's...

put the spark plugs back in and kick it over, if you can. that puts a lot of pressure on the domes. that should do the trick...or compressed air, which probably won't be as much as the motor turning over. if you can't do that, then try the mallet and pry in the middle, between the cylinders, just don't ding the hose nippler

yah, if you plan on going 4mill in the near future, then it's best to wait untill you have enough to do it all, or plan on buying new un-ported cylinders to go 4mill........on the other hand, i think i saw a few sets of portd cyls for sale. you can always slap those on and then you'll have the cyls layin around for when you want to stroke

i'd personally go with 30's they would work good with both setups

yes, it does need good frame ground...

diesel mechanic at a mine

run your finger nail across the scratches and try to make them catch....if they do, it probably needs a bore. check, or have checked, the bore for size/clearance and square, and do the same for the pistons. yes, you can re-ring. stuck rings do happen. you can break the old ring to clean the grove out (don't break with the ring installed, of course)

lol, i was putting my cover-alls/ppe on at that time for work.........slide relief hole open

sweet beans

are you saying that there's no rubber coupler holding the 2 together? yah, that can be a big problem

i like to stick with 6psi for 6 min, and -1psi allowable. if you can hear it, you can find it...there is actually a lot of pressure in the case. did you lube the seals when you went together? seals only seal up when they have oil in the surfaces. is your leak-down set-up leaking? the shrade valve tight? use a piece of vacuum line in your ear as a stethoscope to hear where the air is coming out. trust me...you are asking this question because you want piece of mind.......and you're not gonna have it until you figure it out...and be thinking about it while you ride, which doesn't make for the most fun...

did you make sure to keep the sealing surface on the bottom of the cyls clean? did you put the rubber plugs back in the bottom, too? use new gaskets, of coarse? coolant leaks go down, so start high, and work down. stuff a paper towel, or napkin behind the coolant hose coming of the back of the head between the reeds and see if it wicks some coolant, and try the same at the back of the clutch cover. that o-ring will make it leak in the trans, i believe, not externally. old hoses, however tend to leak when you r&r them. swap your float bowls from right to left and see if the choke works then. make sure the choke tube is installed, first. now, is this after running it a few heat cycles, or just right away after the rebuild?

that's "manjina power hits"

um....this is where it comes into play that the total flow of the cylinders needs to keep up. on a kitty jug, the time/area of the tripple exhaust, and large bore can call for such flow...especially with drag porting. just a "clean-up" isn't gonna flow like that. it's like people trying to pull low-end torque out of a 750 and rpm, or tunnel ram intake bolted to a stock sb350.......it just doesn't work that way, in fact, i can make the stock intake and carb blow that setup out of the water....even 2bbl.......and it's not from just hoggin it out.. so....figure out the angles and port/time and durrations, and then you can drag port that will like larger transfers, and better yet, stroke it while you are at it

post a want thread in "for sale-->wanted" it'll pop up

you can modify a stock plate to adjust to +5.5 degrees......