AKheathen

oh, calvin here would be the best to point you in the right direction, but i do believe he stated that abnother 10hp can be squeezed out of the servals, but that would change their broad nature. idk, for sure, but i would immagine increasing the blow-down would get you there. you mentioned that you desired a little more "pipey" power-band. you may be on to something with using the 7mill super cub on a 4mill crank, but, you would need to recess the domes an extra 1.5mm to accommodate removing 3mm from the bottom. damnit, i've never had interest in playing with kitties, but with the new servals, and your ideas, my wheels are starting to turn to the tune of a purr, lol. i just have one funamental question......i've been asuming, but i would like to know- are the 4mill, and 7mill cylinders made taller to accommodate the extra stroke? one thing you should be paying more attention to, is inreasing torque, over peak hp. i think there are a lot of differnt ways you can go with the differnt cylinders, but the biggest differnce with the cut-down 7mill, and a serval is the blow-down. if you get time/area close, the will just be a lower rpm pipey cub. if you really want serval-like power, you could start with servals, and even mill the bottoms and recess the domes, then bring the exhaust up some, or take the cub and bring the transfers up to broaden the power, but you will have the issue of port bottoms going that rout. i think your best bet to prevent the obtrusive piston crown in the port near bottom dewll is to start with a serval that will have more meat there to manipulate..........this is all just thoughts in my head, since i do not actually have hands-on experience with these, and just now am jumping into the kitty hype

oh, could also be an idler bushing tapping the basket kinda hard not hearing it

2 best things i've found for mice are, first, my dog, and 2nd, those sticky trays....they work good, just don't get yourself stuck to them...

you can use any kind of anti-freeze, just as long as it's not water in freezing temps, and it's not deteriorated. engine ice is only good to like 20f, and 50/50 green will slush below -10, but not totally freeze. i use prestone dex-cool in temps colder than -30f

give us a pic of what you have....and we will tell you how it goes

what's up with that funky headder?

what in the hell kinda sale thread is this???? no one is gonna call you just to ask what the fuck you have, and how much you want...not to mention lack of record keeping..........this thread should have been deleted already. i can understand not being able to put pics up yet, from your phone, but c'mon.... POST UP WHAT YOU HAVE, AND HOW MUCH!! kinda no-brainer.... ...or did you want me to call you right now?

so, i'm sick in bed with little to do today......and i was looking through the f/s section on here and found you some that i believe might just work great, or even be the exact ones you need.... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136332 i did as much research as i could, and i know the new lrd's use silencers that resemble fmf's, but i think they are the only inframe that uses an added mount close to the header.......i'm not certain on that, but it would make since to need them, since they had one-piece headers, and adjustable headers, and that the adjustable ones would need the extra support to keep them square.... i'd definitely give them a shot...

minor exhaust leaks don't do much. major ones will, though. if it blew out the o-ring on the pipe, think about getting new springs, too....they wear over time. also, look for cracking on the pipe somewhere, usually at the mount, or spring hooks. it will turn black pretty quick..

well, i described this in detail a few times.....most recent one was in a carb syncing thread a few months ago......once you have mechanically synced them, you can use the vacuum gauge, if you can get a hold of one, or use exhaust pressure balancing to get it close..

well, toomy silencers usually run pretty well on other pipes. cascade silencers are made for putting on whatever, but you might have the most luck with fmf silencers. they have the larger diameter stinger tubing, are the longer of the 2 common connection points, and are made with steel stinger tubes for easier modification.... there is also several different styles to choose from on the silencer it self.

possible you developed an exhaust leak....

so, i'm trying to understand what you are trying to do here......you want serval cylinders, but in 78 bore, not 68? if that is the case, i would start by first trying to get them the same timings as the servals themselves. run them, and then raise the exhaust some more if you want it to be a little more pipey......have you done all the research on the serval cylinders? even with the lower exhaust degree timing, the time/area is still great enough to pull peak power over 10k, but the whole design is quite broad. really, sounds like they are just about made for you out of the box....

it's definately out of line.......did i ever mention how much i absolutely loathe photobucket mobile? i have may face up against the screen and still can barely tell shit....

probably just a bad winding.... that's not un-like rs, from my personal experience....

start with a fin comb, and check/replace the radiator cap. fill it up with the cap off and start it. it should be flowing some, and maybe a couple bubbles on start-up, but they should go away and not be bubbling, or continually pushing coolant out. also, if the coolant rezivoir is hooked up back-wards, it will dump the coolant out and suck air in.

don't buy a traditional jet kit. the only "kit" worth buying is when someone puts together a whole bunch of sizes to sell on ebay cheap, otherwise, just buy individual jets, and put the other 100+ back in your pocket. i bought ebay jets for $35 shipped, and got 2 of every size from 210- 390 some boysen dual stage reeds, carbon tech, charriot would all match your setup well, just what kind of "feel" you prefer

i first have to apologize for my ramblings....i was actually really drunk, lol.......i cannot agree with you more on the port time/area. a subject i completely forgot, once i started typing last night. i really would send you my pipes, but i'm kinda using them right now, and the shipping both ways would cost as much as a useable set of used pipes down there....and, i would have to go back to the white pipes (origional gold series) i honestly don't think they will hinder at the 10k level as much as most think. they do rev broadly past 9k range, not so abrupt as most, which is one of the things i love....i can keep the r's climbing in a high-speed power slide and not have to change gears to get back down in the power. on a side note, these are pretty close to what i was considering having made in pv version. you say that 3500-4500rpm is basically off-idle for a 2 stroke, which is about right for a banshee, in perspective, but i know a 2-stroke can do better. my long-term goal is to build a pv'd engine that actually responds off-idle, but really runs like a 2-stroke twin. i wonder if it's plausible to run these cylinders strait-piped with stingers to see the real nature of the beast.....

i need to, well, rather compelled to, disclaim..........I'M KINDA DRUNK......... that being said, i need to stop you right there and press the point that pro-circuits can be real hungry pipes, that only truly open their potential at the 4mill level. un-ported, they even fall short of sufficient flow to really shine, or wake up and stomp t-6's. their very design is based to compliment the high flow rate- mid timed mx porting. although the several's are timed slightly higher than what i feel is ideal, or perfect matched, the do fall well within the range of the pipe. (for the record, i favor the idea of 183/124 area to broaden the low-end of p/c's into an un-believable monster) ok, i just have to say, that i really wish i could spare the funds right now to trial these cylinders on my 4mills. i just about have the perfect set-up and conditions to give her a good go for it. 30mm lectrons, boysen power, and pro (whatever i feel for the ride) dd lock-up, etc...multi- terrain ridding, and so-on...... jeff may thin he is a loner on this, but i, too am an advocate to the low-end, though not-so-stuck. what he is trying to press, imho, is about the same thing i was trying to convey months ago. torque is the big thing. without it, you do not have hp. hp, is merely torque x rpm (the twisting force in time)= amount of work measured in "hp", or "power" it's just marketing, and hearsay, that "power" is conveyed as terms of comparison....much like the water-electricity parody spawns mis-conceptions about current. so, you have (i.e.) 45ft/lbs at 6500rpm and get like 80hp, but the other guy has 90hp @ 9200, but only 35 ft-lbs......in a controlled environment, like drag, he may be ideal for getting there, but when you step out into the real world, you can get near 6500rpm a lot easier and quicker than the guy trying to work the shit out of his bike to get some power, since another by-product is off- power drivability, which really suffers the more extreme you go on the build........ok, i'm loosin my thought process........ i do see what these cylinders are made for, and how they were designed, but i cannot agree that they are low-mid cylinders, that would shine best on the dyno via low-mid pipes. i can see that they would be most fun, and usable, not to mention the likelihood of awe-inspiring out-put that pro-circuits can stretch these to, imo...it is my understanding, that the cylinders make the power, and different pipes are just differently tuned turbos...in relativity (i know there is much more than that to it) and that is the attitude i keep in my head when matching things. so, when looking at a build, i first pick the pipes to suit the needs, and set the motor in that range, usually not perfectly matched, but within range, non the less.....so, one key with these cylinders i see is, the flow. it cannot be ignored. i did not see mentioned, but i would also like to see these in action on a set of rockets, and every DECENT flowing pipe from mid-high on down. i do- have to reiterate, that pc's may just be a choice pipe for these cylinders......maybe not thee choice for most in love with top-end pull on a drivable motor, but likely out-shine the credit you are currently viewing the combo.

just used my air compressor and torch. there is no magic number, but it was between 30-120 somewhere, depending on what the dent wanted. that's why i rigged a blow nossle. heated it red, and shot little spurts of air to keep the dent moving. major dents and sharp dings take a lot more, and minor denting takes little. you just have to heat where it is bent, like the circle around the dent, since that is the part of the metal that actually needs to bend back, not the center, unless the center is creased. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136476

you got a lot of catchin up to do, if you wanna beat 4375 posts in 2 years....

FAST=FUN wow, you definitely need to resize that before you put it in your sig........ anyway....vforce are probably not your best choice. maybe some chairiot, boysen, por carbon tech reeds will suit you better

well, since you already have one, it makes sence to just get another mate to it. if you decide to go with other carbs, i would not go any bugger, though.

well, first off, that 2-1 is really choking the 4mill down. 2nd, i think you should be closer to the 165 range on the main, depending on temps, elevation, and fuel. when warmmed up, it should pull clean and throaty all the way up at wot. if it sputters and brakes up, then it's rich, if it kinda mutes and falls flat, a little zingy sounding, then it's too lean, one sure sign that you are 2 or more sizes lean is if it picks back up as you let off the throttle. one size, and you may get a hesitation.....hard to tell on a 2-1, though....once you get the main done, then tune the needle for 1/4-3/4 throttle, and finish with pilot jet and airscrew adjustment....and everything is tuned to a hot engine

well, stick around and absorb all you want.......if the funds are there (around 300) the best thing you can do is get a good woods/trail/ or mx port, mabey low-end dune, and that will get you the best gains. somewhere in the range 25hp increase