AKheathen

i highly doubt it is a stock needle (5nwhatever) remove a needle and read the letters. like cel dek, you get the point. given what size jets are in there it's probably in the kehin family. i would try smaller mains if it sputters/breaks up wot, and larger mains if it falls flat/hesitates wot.

well, the tank should have screens inside. if you remove the petcock, they will be attached to the inside. that is really all the filter you ever need. the brass core in the inline filters catch shit and keep it there for good. with the screens, it gets stopped, but usually just falls down to the bottom of the tank and off the screen letting it flow again once you start it up. of coarse, there will be stuff that sticks to it, so it is a good idea to remove and clean the screens and tank at the end of each season. either you are missing the screen, or you have stuff coming from inside the petcock. if the screens are there, simply taking it all apart and cleaning will be better than an in-line. the brass core also stands a chance of clogging with pre-mix and maybe water(not sure there) but anyways, i would rather be able to drain the bowl of that stuff just something to think about

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try changing the plug gap to .020"

i would also love to put them to the test on the wild alaskan "course", lol......i think he is too far past r&d hand-outs/trials....and i have the full low-mid setup, too....lectron 30's w/pj's, boysens, dyna fs programmable, dd lock-up, billet basket, 22/12/9 mud tires, ptr powerhead, pcp's, etc, etc...enough to handle the abuse, and even spare pipes/reeds, etc to change things up a bit....i'm just on the fence about shelling out for the cyls, or continue with what i was buiding up already....

at 3am? dare i venture to say........i don't remember being totally sober, lol...

the little coolant container under the seat(stock) without it, the radiator will always spit out some coolant when it expands/heats up, and suck air back in when it cools. perfectly normal, and many run without one. they just let it spit some out, and then it stops and stays at that level

only the left carb has the siphon tube, and the choke jet in the bowl. the right side feeds off of the piece of vacuum line between the carbs when the choke is on. i would definately do a compression and squish test with the coolhead installed

normally, there is slight variation from right to lesft, but not even near 1 jet size, or there is a problem. also, try swapping plug wires and see if that makes a difference. remember to only change 1 thing at a time

i'm kinda anal ocd about it, so mine always runs evenly

haha, yah the 2 problems are likely related. could be caused by chain adjustment, or bad swinger bearings. if there is play right there, you need to replace the bearing, or the tranny could rip itself apart. the sprocket is bolted right to the cluster shaft itself. in fact there is a gear right on the back side of that bearing

x2, and are you running a coolant bottle?

the gains would likely be minimal, and maybe only raise the curve a little. imho, it's not worth ruining a set of cylinders to find out. now, you can mill the head extra, and run a thicker base gasket if you care to find out. same affect, and a new head could be had as little as $10

well, they are not gonna hurt performance...

pull the tank and clean it out, and the lines and carb......filters are a bad idea to run permanent. they can clog when you are not looking and make it start to run the bowl low, which will run the jetting a bit lean...

pro circuits x5, and smaller carbs/different reeds.......is that stroker kit just the plate and no porting?

looks like a banshee boys work of art, lol.....porting so aggressive it eats the air, lol. and vitos reeds, most likely...

to check the squish, you need to put solder through the spark-plug holes bent in an "L" shape. it has to be in line with the piston pin, and touch the side of the cylinder. you roll the engine over 1 turn until it compresses and releases it. do both right and left of one piston at the same time for more accurate reading. you measure how thick the solder is with caliper gauge. .040-.050 is good. with that high compression, you need to run more than 100 octane. normally you need to know what the compression ratio is to figure it out, but at 200psi, you definately need more octane, or bigger domes. keep the timing stock, too, untill you have it sorted

umm...both.....see what you like, but if you need to sell, and you plan on bulding the motor up in the future, then stick with the 5's

is that 200psi after breaking the motor in? it is importand to check your squish clearance, now. also, that needs to be run on race gas

oh, well, if you are not rich on the lower half, then i would suspect the needles.....did you try leaning the needle some and see how it runs?

i'm curious why this pipe choice for a turbo? what does a 2-1 stand to gain on the setup? i don't agree with the "only one cylinder is open at a time" way of thinking at it. what happens in a 2-1 is that the pulses have to share a chamber and run into one-another, and basically, each cylindrr says to each-other, "get your own pipe" the way i understand it..... on traditional chambers, the pulse comes back to the cylinder at a preset time, as it gets near the right rpm, it begins entering the chamber a little too soon, which still creates stuffing, but some bleeds back out. then it hits the right time, and lastly, it gets kinda cut short once it exceeds the right time, and stuffing starts to decrease. this is the timing cycle. normally, the pulses can find a peaky harmony where stuffing can still work on a shared chmaber, but, normally creates an interference closely off that.....so i am really curious how this thing is made to be broad in description i really would like to see the power profile. judjing (a book by it's cover) the look, length, and girth of the pipe, i'd venture to assume that there is actually 2, or 3 timing conditions that enforce stuffing. first, a real low-timed pulse return on the traditional cycle. 2nd, a timing that allows the pulses to exchange cylinders, and 3rd, a duoble-cycle pulse. possible to have a 4th with double-cycle cylinder excange pulse, if interference can be dealt with. the "y" doesn't look verry nice for this, though....

not a bad price to run a matton lockup-, but i like my dd lock-up and cover, even if i get it all nasty in the woods and mud......just hand polished it real quick last month.....

how does it run in 5th-6th not climbing? i know mine takes the 3-0 needle, but they are 30's, not 34's. could be plausible to need a 4-1. on the other hand, if it's something that happened on the 2nd day of ridding, it could be as simple as a dusted filter. i know mine has only done that with a soaked outterware, but cleared up after drying out some......

make sure you didn't suck the cable out some somewhere, like the carb tops. 240, swtill does sound a bit lean. did you mean 340? if you are extremely lean, then it usually doesn't do much more than run it low on oil, but if you are just a little lean and it's making some power, it will melt the pistons.