AKheathen

well, it's probably just a high output stator, which should be 100watts on one yellow, and 150watts on the other. just ohm out the yellows to black and ground. black should read ground to the engine, and each yellow should read around the range of 0.3-1.0ohms to ground(black). if it's a floated ground, then the yellows won't read anything to ground on a stock style, or they will only read to the black wire, and the black wire will not read to ground on a ho stator. if the guy didn't have a rectifier in the harness then it's likely just not floated. by the way, you cannot run the full wattage using the stock regulator. you would need to add a 2nd capable of the 150watt load.

make sure the black/white wire is not getting ground with the killswitch in run. the black/red wire needs to be grounded (key) and you need to check/ohm your stator and pickup ohms/gap.

from all i know about when they came out, they make less peak hp than the cub, and the porting is a little different, not just lower... comes on down low, and real broad/smooth/useable in the dunes and such, which is the intended market. really, you absolutely cannot came close to the time-area a serval has to offer with stock cyls, even sleeved/welded. they offer both high power/torque and drive-ability. only question is what it's worth to you...

well, the clutch problem could have contributed to the wreck, you could have had it adjusted too far out and it started camming over, and/or the clutch plates are stuck from sitting and just need to be popped loose. either way, pull the clutch cover off and check it out.... hell the adjuster could have backed out, and you couldn't tell that it was loosening up last time, because the hyd clutch compensated..

loosen the screws, and place a spark-plug box flap in between the pickup and flywheel node. when you tighten it down, you should be able to just slide it in-between the gap. check both sides to make sure it's not off a bunch.

i just now noticed that you are at stock compression.......... git that fuel out of there and put some 90-93oct in and git after it again. your motor can't really burn that much octane effectively, and i'm not sure your oil is compatible...

well, you didn't really answer my question......... anywho- your plugs say over-all cold, and lean. the non-resistor caps could be a good idea if you are running br8's, so you don't have worry about caps cracking. fix the connection, then play with the mains only untill it can pull decent in higher gears wot, and do a proper plug chop, by the book. it's outlined in the jetting section. once you have the mains set, that is what you stick with, then go play with the needle, then pilot jet.

lol, yah, either get more octane, or bigger domes. forget what your neighbor said, octane need is based on compression, timing, and elevation, not on what motor it is. the stock basket is riveted, so there is no screws to back out....

well, a plug backing out is a good sign of deto, to start with, and the plugs shouldn't be real tight. as for a hard break-in, some guys like to take it real easy and mix extra oil durring break-in. that method comes from the old school coarse hones you used to get, which created a lot of extra material durring ring seat. modern hones do not have that problem, and the rings will dull before break-in done that way. the best seal you can get, imho, is to ride it hard and keep it under load, aside from warm-up and heat cycles.

the hyd clutch is why i said to take the slave off the lever...... anyways, just what all did you take apart? if you had the clutch plates, or at least pressure plate off, then it sounds like you lost the ball, and the pushrod is not contacting the adjuster, that is if you have verified that the clutch is indeed holding. otherwise, you could have the pressure plate off by 1 screw hole, which will not let it seat all the way down on the clutch and pusher. as mentioned, you should be able to move the case lever 1/4"-1/8" by hand, no more, no less, but not be able to release the clutch by hand.

ok, and just what fuel are you running. what kind of porting? if you are only getting 170 cranking 18's on a 4mill, it kind of sounds like you are high rpm ported, or 10k+ elevation. if it's ported something like dune/drag, then none of your setup matches the cyls. now, on the other hand, the rmstator ign. could be at fault. whatever cdi you run needs to be able to support the nology, too

make sure your swingarm bearings are not shot, and adjust the new chain properly. should not be a problem under 80hp

well, that should only mesh with the kicker idler gear, so pull-starting and running should not be effected. i take it the clutch gear came off an aftermarket basket? well, i would make sure you put it back together right, and that you adjusted the clutch properly. back the cable off, and get your 1/4-1/8" play in the lever on the case, and that you lined the dot up on the basket with one of the arrows on the pressure plate. if it's not lined up, it won't slide on all the way and never clamp the plates. you have a 50/50 shot of it lining up when you put it on.

oh, i see...... another option that i went with, is that if you find some in/out play on the shifter when it's together, you can run just blue rtv in plce of the gasket, and it will work, and tighten up the play.

so, is the 5/8 wall better or worse than before? sounds like you need to go back up the other direction on the main. the higher gears is where it typically shows where the jetting is off a little. another thing is the possibility of weak spark. read your plugs and check the gaps.

pull the clutch cover and adjust the canter of the clutch so you get 1/4-1/8" free-play on the lever. unbolt the slave cylinder to do so.

oh, and to keep down on that much blow-by, you need to break it in hard, not a lot of free-running

well, i don't suppose you re-checked the jetting after the switch? squish? also, did you check that your oil is compatable with the sg of the 100LL? first, though, i would check with hjr about the compression ratio and the fuel/timing you used. could have been too much. also, it's usually in the 18cc range that stock cranks start to find their limitations IIRC.

um, then i would remove it, clean and scuff the end of the weld, and get a little jb weld into the cracked area at the sealing surface, and file it smooth again. if they did weld all the way to the end of the crack, it would be distorted. if not, then it's still not all the way sealed up. either way, the gasket is likely damaged

first place i would start. plugs first, and when you got the flywheel back on, it should have been gap checked at the pickup on both nodes to make sure it's still true and seated good. visually check for good blue spark and see if it pumped a bunch of fuel through and into the pipe. what does the sparkplug say? read it real close. likely the flywheel coming loose just loaded things up on the right, but it is still possible that detonation and/or pre-ignition could have shocked it loose. also, check for something simple, like the choke tube not being connected, or rotted/ cracked.

well, when you run them foreward, the "paddles" clean out the center as they grab for better traction, which usually works real good in dirt/gravel, or to get down into the thick mud, but running them backwards channels everything to the center lugs for better floatation on the real loose stuff like sand, silt, snow, etc. i don't know exactly what the terrain is like there, but it can be a viable option.

wtf over? dumbass

i keep all my clusters and such oiled up with residue at all times, aside from cleaning, or any cutting, which is followed by cleaning and a little oiling, mostly to keep any rust from forming, but i don't clean the oil off, other than wiping up drips, or wiping off something that fell on them..... just whatever is going to run in the case.

pretty simple math, really.... not even bothering with other factors such as piston/seal drag, or cable drag, simply the area of one piston divided by the area of the other gives your ratio for puling force, which came to roughly 1.36:1....... to find your travel difference, pick a number, like 10mm, or whatever, and find the cc's it pushes (again simple area x distance) and devide by the area of the other. i do see what you are saying, though, and true, you should be able to mix/match master/slave setups all you want, but if it was a little hard to pull in the begining, a larger bore mc is just going to make it worse......

well, the math says that what to do the same work as 10# of pull on the 12mm master would require 13-14# of pull on the 14mm master, so just how much harder is the pull? (1.36x should be right) if it's more than that, i would look at other factors, such as hd clutch springs, lever geometry/adjustment, etc....