AKheathen

hell yah, would be nice to have the text field, border, user, text, etc colr choices back..............it sais you can give different groups levels of priveledge..........will premium members be able to create or have their own room?......more incentive for sign-up,

hell yah that's a deal. those pipes are frakin awesome, plus, the stock shocks really leave something to be desired if you ride hard at all.

my rears are kenda bear claw 22/12/9. not the kenda klaws. they are pretty awesome in everything. i run them regular direction and the dig down and utilize the side lugs for dirt and stuff, and i run them backwards for snow and such and they help channel everything to the center lugs, kind of like the mid-90's camoplast powder tracks. my fronts help turn because they are squared off instead of balloned. i just baught a new set, but you pretty much need deep lugs on the fronts for high speed turning in the real hard pack. btw, they make the bear claw for the front, too

check your float bowls, one of them should have a little brass bead in the side, near the bottom. that one goes on the choke carb. there is also a little choke jet in the bottom of the long hole that could be plugged. what do your new pluggs look like?

can ou get away with 100oct? if so, look for avgas. i buy it @ the pump for little more than premium @ one of those card stations that sell just regular and diesel by card

don't worry, i get water all the time, both from running through creeks and washing/overnight condensation from washing....i drain the carbs once in a while, and call it good. worst thing it's ever done is sticky slides, or ice in the carbs. i've seen my plugs completely drenched, wiped them off, fired it up and just blew it away, no porblems. only thing is if you had more than a couple cups sitting in the engine

31?!?! psh. in all fairness, the stock 660 is really choked down and leaned out safely......i have an fmf powerbomb pipe for the 660, i don't have the muffler, though. all he needs is to jet.......and he can run open baffle.......really wakes it up.

just to verify, you checked for the little vaccuume hose that goes from the back side of the choke across to the other carb. with that off, it will only start with about 1/4+ throttle and the choke closed, and get some backfirinng and run like crap....

this is kind of a simple question, but, did youcompletely drain the old fuel out of the tank? there will be a bunch of old premix sludged @ the bottom of the tank.

man, i wish we had some kind of hilclimbing circuit up here............

yes, you run 2 0ff one and 2 off the other, but i'm not sure if you need to run a second regulator, or can tie them together on that one. check your instructions

it's the second lighting coil. i belive it's 100watts on the yellow, and 150 on the white

good idea......i plan on doing my 4 mill and running it for a season and then going rz........now, maybey i should just do the minimum to run 4 mill and port in stages. if i mess up, i can just pick up some more come tax return time, and if i don't, then i can update to some betterer tooling

hell yah. 'bout time we have more than 2 sponsors on the page and no have to search them out.......kept forgetting to bring that up

oh..........that sux

ck158=hotrods 115mm longrod......i thaught about making a shortrod for more piston options, but longrods are more stable

if all you have internal is new pistons, no head mod, then you are better off just running strait 93, or do you guys have pupm 95 there?

haha,no i meant the different ridding, not classes. you have one guy running a broader powerband and tons in suspension and ridding skill, pitted against someone built for all out uphill drag. the drag bike might bomb out with turns and jumps, but dominate in the strait hills....... i understand you could have different levels, like displacement and level of mod, like hobby stock, mod stock, and open....

well, actually, 60degree sea level should be about the same as 40degree @ 1500ft, since you would go up 1 size for 20-30 degree drop, but down 1 size for 1500ft. if you are going to run pods, and you have the tors removal kit, it's just as easy, if not easier to change out the jets, than installing the box. i was referring to running a box open, and installing the lid to richen it up. it's 1 clamp and 4 screws to pop the bowl off to get to the jet, and you can dump/wipe the sediment out while yo have the bowl off. what usually takes so long is the airbox boots and tors caps when jeetting. plus, you won't have to restrict flow to richen it up, which means more power i just run an open box because i always end up crossing a creek anywhere i ride

yes, most are runing tsl vampires, but you can also run super tsl super swampers or kenda bear claws. you want aa 6ply+ rating tire for the coal, and the vamps have like a 2" deep lug to them

they are on par. powerwise with vforce, but aimed for more high-mid to low rpm improovements, where v-force is for topend

do they have different classes for the different climbs? i don't think it's fair to pit money against skill, to a point.....that's like drag vs. mx..

hell yah! all that cold, dry air to feed the motor, plus, frozen sand yeilds awesome traction

pretty sure he's like me and a few others and just wants to do it. doesn't matter if it costs 3x in the end, or more if the cylinders get hashed. doesn't matter if it has less power than sending them out on the first set. it's just about doing it for the pleasure......

shouldn't there be 10 smallest?.......the 2 small ones go on the top of the domes, where they stick through the head