muggzy

Ok So I bought a top of the line ($130) plastic skid plate. The fit and mounting design were terrible. So after looking into the cost of materials I decided I could do better and just as nice looking for less; 1/4" x 24" x 48" Black UHMW off Amazon - $75 shipped (prime) 2 - 10pks of 1" Plastic coated loop straps off of McMaster - $14 shipped 8 low profile M8-1.25 x 20mm bolts from an old set of front rotors - free Satisfaction of a reliable skid plate that won't fall off on the trails - priceless Sheet plastic: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070ZAXUK/?tag=jyj356j5-20 or http://www.mcmaster.com/#4296a66/=yed8o0 This should be enough plastic to do the A-arms too. Straps and hardware: A couple of the screws that were recovered from two front brake rotors I had left over from this build are visible in the top of the pic and in the strap on the package. It's got a nice low-profile head and the shoulder height is less than the 1/4" UHMW Plastic that I purchased. The nuts were also left over from a hardware kit that was bought for the build but they're same as the stock lug nuts with teeth on the bottom.

I do agree with you for a set of clean plastics and thanks for the heat gun advice. I just came in from putting a heat gun to the rears. Fronts were done several times and they get brittle from using the heat gun repeatedly. Since I wasn't so attached anymore, I opted to just cut 'em. But now they they look good again.

Why? Appearance or other? I just finished a rebuild and bought all new plastics. I always swore I'd never cut my plastics but cash was getting tight so I bought the "Race Cut" fronts. While I'm waiting for the graphics, I put the old ones back on and cut them because of the stress marks and generally crappy appearance. I just rode yesterday for the first time on the rebuild and didn't miss the fenders at all.

Duh, of course. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Hey Zilla, What's sxs? I'm making my own skid plates. Wasn't happy with the fit our mounting design on the one I bought so I sent it back. Just got the UHMW sheet and probably gonna do a fab thread on the build. Should be interesting [emoji3] Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Considering a TM Designworks full frame plastic skid plate. Just did a search on "plastic skid plate" and surprisingly came up with nothing usable. Most of my riding is in really rocky woods and I beat the hell out of the 3/16" alum plate that I have. It's so banged in that I'm not sure it will go back on without some serious reforming. Clearly, I've got to replace it so does anyone have any feedback on plastic skid plates even other mfrs?

Sounds like you got the carbs wet. Let me guess, you have the stock mikuni carbs? I'm also willing to bet that the next time you try to bash through a puddle the same thing will happen. If you search this site, you should find all kinds of posts regarding wet carbs. I went through hell trying to figure that one out. Never really did get to the "root cause" but if the problem is the same that I experienced, when you've got it running properly, use a spray bottle to spray water on the air filters. You'd expect it to choke out the engine but the thing will over rev like it's a lean condition very much like what you've described. I fought with it for a year before I finally got around to putting in Keihen pwk28's. Not only did the problem go away but my low end response is better that I was ever able to get with the stock mikuni carbs. IMHO, you're seeing the reason for the TORS box. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

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Oh, how clever. Sheerider found LMGTFY. I've already gone through that "long ass list" and thats how I found Extreme Powder Coating; the guy who sandblasted my VIN off after he said he'd chemical strip it and mask it b4 he blasted the rest and then I had to do the legwork to fix his mistake. He also PC'd the seating surfaces on the rear hubs, leaving me to chem strip 'em myself. If he'd have fixed his mistakes, it would have been no biggie, we all make 'em. Now let me give you a run down on that long ass list (since it's not really so long) that I already went through when I got my frame done over the summer... Extreme PC shows up 2x Orange County powder coat shows up 5x on that list. I drove there once (nobody home), called them twice (didn't return my 1st call) and got through once, said come on in and guess what? No one home again. Anthony Bros. - 9-5 M - FNewburg and Hudson Valley - commercial work only Dase's Custom PC - Just over an hour away - not making that trip twice. Just smarter to send it through the mail if a sponsor could do a more reliable job, even if I gotta wait 'til they get a bigger job to run mine with. Speedy Carts and Coatings - don't recall why I didn't talk to them but it may have been hours again, I'm gonna try them and see if that changed since their hours aren't listed on their web site. So sheerider, if it was that easy, I wouldn't have posted my simple question on a forum meant (in part) for that purpose. If you feel you need to get in the last word, be my guest. I'm done wasting time replying to dumbass posts.

It's not about cheap. In fact, I'm expecting to pay more than it would've cost of I'd gotten them done along with the frame. Of course no prof. PC guy is going to be hungry for my trivial job, but since I'm only looking for black and not in any real hurry, it can go right through with the next black job that comes along. Like I said, I appreciate the offer from motooutcast but I don't know him and after he "liked" the "is it really that hard" answer, thanks but no thanks. The diy idea might be worth a shot. Later. Sent from my KFOT using Tapatalk

Sheerider, you're as big a dumbass as the guy who PC'd my frame. If the guy was competent, I'd have already gone back to him. There's another in Pearl River and another on the opposite side of the county from me ~ 45 min to an hour either way. Neither of which is open on the weekends nor am I about to take a day off work to go and drop off the parts. And what's wrong with trying to use our reputable sponsors if they can be bothered with such a small job or get the advice of members on here for someone they trust? So f-off if you haven't got something useful to add to the conversation. Motooutcast, thanks for the offer but I'll find someone who wants the work.

My local PC guy is not "detail oriented" After going over my frame requirements and repeatedly telling him DO NOT SANDBAST MY VIN# guess what he did. Luckily, his delivery is just as unreliable so when I stopped in to pick up the frame on the promised date, it was hanging on the rack waiting to get sprayed and that's when I saw the VIN was gone..... Long story short I got a stamped plate welded on before he finished PCing it. Needless to say, I can't trust him unless it's the simplest of jobs. Next nearest guy is an hour away. Sooooooo, anyone know a good PC guy? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I need to send my front hubs to someone for pc. Didn't see any site sponsors listed as powder coaters. Anyone I can trust to do the job without being there to show them what to mask? What should it cost? Sent from my KFOT using Tapatalk

I'm a little late to this party but posts 16, 17 and 20 said it all. The Clymer's manual is the best investment you can make for your bike. I will say my set up is similar though I do have porting work done. The stock carbs will serve you just fine as long as you don't get em wet while you're riding . After you get a little experience with them, you may want to upgrade to Kehein (sp?) pwk28's. I could never get rid of the hard powerband hit with the stocks, no matter how much I played with the jetting but with the pwk28's my throttle response is extremely smooth and predictable, and the issues with the water are gone. Good luck and have fun Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Hey Zillaguy, Any updates? Do the rear rubber parts definitiely work on the fronts?

Nice idea. I'll look into some. The calipers I have work fine. It's just some of the rubber is dried out and cracking and the one kit I've been able to find is $30 for one side. At that rate, I should just buy a complete pair of banshee calipers off eBay for $50 Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Thanks but that's just a "stock" pic. Fine print has the disclaimer Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Can anyone tell me who (preferably a sponsor) that sells a rebuild kit for the front calipers with ALL of the rubber parts? Sent from my KFOT using Tapatalk

Appreciate the heads up. Thanks Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Wow Nice! Was just getting on line to look them up. Where do you recommend? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Never heard of a thread file, thanks I'll look into it. I should've said that I already tried running the nut onto the thread but the nuts threads aren't up to it. Btw, it's the other threads that hold the axle into the carrier. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Hey, anyone know a good way to clean up the stock axle thread? I'm planning to carefully use a really fine, 60* jeweler's file but I'll get a much better job if I could run a die over them to clean out the few damaged threads. Problem is I can't be sure of the thread size. I measured the diam and converted to metric and came up with 32.6mm - There's a M32-1.5 thread and a M33-1.5 thread, so does anyone know what the correct one is? Or another way to clean 'em up that I didn't think of? 1) I'm running out of funds on this rebuild and 2) not sure how wide to go on the back until I get it all back together and test-ride the other changes, so investing in another stock axle at the moment isn't gonna happen. And yeah, I know a lot of the aftermarkets are "adjustable" but see note 1) Thanks for any suggestions.

Got it... Like this one a lot: Chassisshop.com http://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/C73-755/ Thanks!

thanks

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