muggzy

What he said. Yes it should be a little rich. After you're comfortable with the plug chop, You may want to drop the needle clips to position 4 (richer position) and go down to 280's main to improve your low end throttle response a little.

OK, maybe the opposite, maybe the oiled filter is choking out the engine. Try removing it (BRIEFLY) and see if it starts. Is the filter foam or fabric? What did you use to to oil it? What brand/type of filter is it? You also said "gas to oil is correct" most of us (I think) are running 32:1 synthetic or synthetic blend. Some are running 40:1 with Klotz. DON'T USE CHEAP OIL

I use this stuff called marine tex; http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html It sticks to stuff no other epoxy will and you can drill and tap it if you want/need to.

Hey Quadboy! Welcome to BHQ. How dirty was that filter when you cleaned it? I may be running lean. The plugs? Did you replace them with NGK B8ES's?

Measured from the surface that the bowl gasket sits on (not the gasket) to the bottom of the float.

You seem to already know that you're running WAY lean. I'm a little confused; are these stock carbs with a vito's needle or vito's carbs? Anyway, sounds like a pretty close set-up to mine. Idle screw should start at 1.5T from seated, you need to richen up your low jet, I'd say 27.5 but you could try the 30. I'm gonna assume you have 6-slot vito's needles and you're 3rd down from the top. Move the clip to the fourth position to richen the low-mid transition too and you should be OK. You should do a plug chop to confirm that the high end is OK.

Anything to support this? Why .023? Stright out of the box is pretty close to .030 I'm running pump (93 octane) fuel too with the .020 that my guy recommended. I don't normally do stuff without knowing why, but I trust this guy and their working... ?

What he said... The only reason I have some of the stuff I got is b/c the rich kid that owned it b4 me didn't know any better

Hey guys, just a minor correction; The spark plug in a two stroke engine fires way before TDC. http://www.southernskies.net/page_info/runningtwostrokeengine.html mid page just under "Compression Stroke" This gives the fuel time to ignite and reach maximum explosive force just after TDC. The higher octane fuels resist self detonation and higher octane is necessary for higher compression ratios. Igniting the fuel earlier may cause the full force of the ignition to occur before TDC and that is what causes knock. what you're hearing is the up stroke of the piston fighting the fuel detonation wearing out the connecting rod, crankshaft, bearings and burning holes in pistons. Having said that, motor engineers time the ignition system with some "cushion" time for engine reliability and other variables. +4 degrees is probably OK but you might not be able to hear the knock. Are you using the bike for competition or just good times? Do you care if you have to rebuild your engine more often or do you like doing that as much as riding?

I've been considering this mod. for a while too. The common timing change I keep hearing is +4 degrees. I have a Wiseco stock throw crank and cool heads w/22 cc domes. Advancing the timing puts additional stress on the pistons/crank/bearings b/c the plug is firing before the piston reaches top dead center(TDC) - but then most of our mods are stressing something somewhere. Anybody have problems with this or what are you doing to maintain reliability?

My local shop guy (who's been on the money about everything else so far) told my I should gap my B8ES plugs to 0.020, not 0.028 - 0.030 like I think everybody else is doing. Anybody else doing this or know why you would? I would think a longer spark (as long as it's bright enough would be give you better ignition.

Heads-up. I just tried to PM this to you and the system said you could no longer take messages. I need an after-market clutch lever with perch and cable. I thought I saw a Clutch lever with perch and cable still attached. How much? George

Hey CarvedArt! Thanks for sharing, you put a LOT of time into this and there's lots of great info in one place. The Chain Link, displacement and speed calculators are really slick to do "what if"s. And there's lots more Thanks again for Sharing! http www 4shared com/file/T0FP7GXj/BansheeDigitalToolkit_v1.html

Hey Dusty, Just a reminder, I'm still looking for a complete stock rear brake set-up from foot pedal to caliper. Have you got one? If you don't have it all let me know what you do have and how much you want for it (shipped cheapest way to 10930 if you don't mind) I think you can fit it all in a USPS Flat Rate Box for ~$15. I also need stock rear hubs and rear axle and carrier if I can afford it all. All of this obviously wont fit in the FRBx. Let me know. Thanks George

Yo, it's getting little hot in here guys. Personally, I think the stock carbs are just fine too. The guy who asked is obviously a newbie (and so am I) and to be honest with you my Banshee's running smooooth as anyone could ask for AND is PLENTY fast for me (for now). The pipes, open airbox ,[what I think is a] mild port job and VForce 3 reeds are all I need. If the stock carbs were that big of a restriction, the reeds wouldn't have made such a HUGE difference across the whole range of throttle. Also, a bigger carb will tend to decrease the response on the bottom end. Just my newbie two cents worth. TMECAR, don't be put off by this, it's not typical. I've learned an enormous amount of stuff on here (thanks to all). Now you guys kiss and make up

Hey Dusty, Hope the job search is productive! I've been there. I'm looking for a complete stock rear brake set-up from foot pedal to caliper. Have you got one? Thanks George

Once you remove that box, Go back and read the instructions: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=132136 carefully and check the carb slides. I didn't think to tell you, after you check to make sure they're "bottoming out", check the idle screws depth by turning them to make sure they'll lift the slides. Wasn't an issue on the set I installed but there was just a guy on here having all kinds of grief b/c he didn't file down the posts that you tapped for the screws enough. I filed mine just enough to make them flat and no more. You may need more.

Do the TORS box first. In fact, if you can hold the throttle just a hair in and the engine runs, I guarantee it's the TORS Box. You can open the throttle lever box on the handle bars and watch the switch contact. As soon as that switch is pressed when you release the throttle, the engine will quit.

Hey thanks sandrider. I did just that this morning. Been getting into the Blue Loctite habit. It seems everything I touch on this thing that I haven't worked on myself needs more repairs than I start out on. Oh well, at least I know the brakes will be easier next time.

Lawyers

Hey All, I went to replace the brake pads on my rear caliper a couple of days ago and the bolts that hold the pads into the caliper were shot. I knew that the back most one was stripped while I was taking it out, I could just feel it. I found a newer (used) caliper locally today but it needed pads too. So I just got back to working on it and the same (back) screw was coming out the same way. Only the bottom 2-3 threads are shot but they wrecked the threads in the hole on the way out. WTF!?!? Did I do something to eff it up? ^^ Anybody know what the thread size is? It's that bolt that only has threads for about 1.5cm from the head of the bolt and the rest is bare for about 4cm. I'm gonna try chasing the thread with a tap to clean it up but I may have to helicoil the damn thing tomorrow.

Glad to help! I've still got a lot to learn too

Thanks sandrider, I stand corrected. The examples still hold.

^ Oh! You'll notice a corresponding higher rate of wear on the front sprocket with each tooth less also. I went with a Moose 13T Chromalloy (sp?) on the front, a Sunstar 41T steal rear and a Marshall (9000lb) chain. That mud is like grinding paste so don't use aluminum, it's just too soft.

Stock Gearing sprocket-sprocket is 14:40. The mechanical advantage (MA) is 40/14 = 2.857 If you change to 13:40; The MA = 40/13 = 3.076 3.077/2.857 = 1.077 or a 7.7% increase in torque at the rear axle. This also means 7.7% lower top-end speed and earlier, more frequent shifting If you go with 12:40; The MA is 40/12 = 3.333 3.333/2.857 = 1.167 or a 16.7% increase in torque and a corresponding loss of top-end speed compared with stock. I'm running 13:41 (~10.4% increase in torque) and ride mostly woods with some steep, rocky trails and a little mud and I find the trade-off between power when I need it and frequent shifting is acceptable. But I'm new at this so the math stands - my opinion you should take with a grain of salt. You can calculate your own set-up by substituting your numbers for the stock numbers and comparing as I did in the examples for your planned set-up. You'll have to use your experience and imagination from there :-)