firebanshee

I love my stock ignition with a timing plate, no worries

Do you still have your T.O.R.S. hooked up ? Those big stupid things on top of your carbs. Unplug them and that little black box under the tank on the left side beside the coil. One of your slides might not be coming down all the way.

They make swing arms for a link or no link(dog bone) set up.

You could need new plug boots, they have an internal resistor in them that fail. Replace them with NGK ones for about 6$ a piece. You can ohm them out and see if they are bad, put one lead were the spark plug goes and the other lead were the wire goes. I think they have a 5mega ohm resistor in them, check the spec on the spec page.

I take special care in draining my carbs and blowing them out and filling them with WD-40, then i tie plastic bags around my carbs.

The coil needs a good ground, make sure the coil is grounded were it sits on the frame.

Isn't 100 psi getting kinda low on the compression?

I like T-5s, unless you are looking for an inframe drag pipe like shearer,cpi.

If this helps i ran 120 links on a +5 swinger,13-43 gearing

I run no crossover tube at all on my cub.

You could back your timing off and try it and see if it still happens, or put a higher quality fuel in it and see if it still happens. 93 octane is pump gas were i live do they sell 93 there? that little bit might make a difference.

Make sure you sync them, i have never used a tool, i leave the air filters off and do it by eye, this works for me but a tool would be more exact.

I have a set of toomey needles in one of my bikes, they are in stock carbs and they have 6 grooves instead of 5 like stock and have a different taper. I like them but i don't see any huge power gains, but the bike has no flat spots and pulls hard all the way through. I run mine 3 from the bottom groove. I run them with T-5s and pod filters. I don't know if they will work in 35 carbs.

I have mine on the right handle bar, you hook one wire to ground and one wire to your orange wire on the coil, i used one of the coil mounting bolts to ground it, then when the tether is pulled the motor dies.

You should be good on the carb size.

You are going to have to keep your compression down around 155-160, probably have to have a 23 or 24cc dome. I am sure Noss can hook you up.

What fuel and octane are you going to run? If you run a 21cc dome you will have around 185 on the compression at sea level that would require staight race fuel. If you are going to run pump gas then you would have to run around a 24cc dome. Since you have a 68mil bore that is a big bore so you are compressing more air, so a 21cc dome on a stock cylinder bore will have a lot less compression than a 68 mil bore. So what octane of fuel are you going to run?

7mil?

Is it a trinity dome?

You are running to high of compression for the fuel you are using, i pump about 185 at sea level with a 21cc dome on my 421.

I would run 13-43

Sounds like you might still be slightly lean, you are running to small of dome for pump gas if you are around sea level. Between the 2 it doen't take much to melt a piston.

I would tell you to get a 4mil crank but if your cylinders have an aggressive port job then they won't work with a 4mil crank, the port timings will be way off, you need to have them checked out if you are going to run the same cylinders. If your cylinders are good then you can run a 795 series piston and have your domes cut 2mils (.080) to allow for the stroke. Or just buy a cub set up for a 4mil

You figure it out by how your bike runs. You only use your main jet at 3/4 throttle and above,your pilots come into play at off idle to 1/4 throttle and your needle is from 1/4 to 3/4. You also use your air screw to help fine tune these adjustments. So if you have a bog off idle then you need to figure out if it is bogging from being rich or lean, you can use your choke to help figure this out.This would be a pilot jet or air screw issue, if you have a issue in the mid section of your power band then you would try moving your needle up or dowm(up is richer moving clip down).If you have a issue at wot then it would be a main jet issue. Your choke can really help you figure out if you are lean or rich, if choke helps then you are lean, if it makes it worse than you are rich. You have to make sure that you don't have any air leaks so you don't try to jet to cover up another problem, also you have to rule out ignition problems like bad plugs or plug caps or other ignition problems.

Do you have stock stroke and bore or is it a 421, 68mil bore, 4mil stroke? T-5s are a mid to topend pipe, they will work, but you would notice a difference with a cpi,shearer,rockets,vito's fat bastards(shearer).And like said before bigger carbs.