BenBB

I agree with Banchetta (big surprise, heh), if your compression is AT LEAST 100 psi and within 10% side-to-side then you know the pistons & rings are intact...if the reeds are OK and the carbs clean, it could conceivably be a float height issue, although typically they will stick open and you'll be flowing fuel out the overflows like crazy... Could be an air leak on the left cylinder, either at the carb boots or the crank; test the boots at idle by spraying them with ether and listen for the idle to increase. Test the crank seal with a leak-down tester. Could also be the coil failing, I'd pull it off and test it (either with an ohmmeter or bench tested at a shop). I'd start with checking for an air leak on the outside and the coil. Good luck.

Try searching in the Tips & Tricks forum, mrmatt posted alot of great info & pics on his jig to shorten/extend a swingarm...hopefully it survived the transition...

Happy berfday Evil!!

Tough choice, glad I'm not in your shoes...is he offering to trade for both Banshees plus cash or just the '97? Wonder why he's sellin', cherry looking quad...

Heh 00, I just need a good pic of some trophy girls or a babe wavin' the checkers...

The YFZ's that good, huh led? I haven't ridden one yet, but hey at least you're not going for a TRX, heh. Too bad you don't have a title on the '99, if it was me I'd try like hell to sell it and keep the '97, put as much as you can on a down payment and finance the rest...I think you can get some good hp without much investment on the YFZ (airbox lid, remove the peashooter, maybe advance the timing @ the chain). But it's your call man, good luck. You might even come across someone that has to get out of payments on a YFZ, I haven't looked at traderonline.com for any but you never know...

I agree with Banchetta, good stuff man. If at all possible I'd run it with no lid to get the best airflow...but if you hit alot of mud & water the whole lid (with no snorkel) or cutting the lid would work best. And I dunno how the Fat Boy silencers are set up as far as disassembly for repacking, but I'd pack them before you get 'em mounted. On my FMF's you pretty much have to remove the whole silencer to repack.

I couldn't tell ya if I saw it, but you might check these websites and see what looks close: www.sudco.com www.carbparts.com

Try www.airnav.com to find the closest airport elevation...Atlanta is a little above 1000'.

Thanks guys. Led, hope you get to a race soon, it's a blast. That's great you'll be at the next one ABM, I guess ridingorhiding and his cousin are gonna try to make the next one too but Chad from Carlsbad won't be there again until December. The more the better, so hope to see ya in a couple weeks.

I got first overall on Saturday (2nd in the first race and 1st in the second race)...but Sunday didn't go too well. I placed second again in the first race but finished 4th in the second race for 3rd overall. The track was REALLY dry but I made a couple mistakes that cost me the win. On the first lap I overcooked the hairpin and fell from 2nd to 7th (dead last), I worked my way up to 3rd but took that same hairpin too slow and Davis slipped past. Oh well, live and learn I guess, just sucks when it's your own fault. Another buddy showed up this weekend, Jesse, who was racing an LT250R last season...we had a nasty wreck on the last race and it pretty much trashed his quad. He's OK but hasn't found a frame for it yet. Anyway, I let him race mine in the Beginner class and he got 1st on the first race and 3rd on the second one for 2nd place overall (the dry track was tough on him too). You gonna try to make the next race ABM?

I agree, those are stockers with the TORS removed...you should be able to get a Motion-Pro or other cable for the stock carbs with Mikuni tops from pretty much anywhere (RMA, Toomey, etc.).

Stock reed cages? Sorry I don't remember whatcha got...if it's stock they should be like anodized gold but the pointy side will look like it was dipped in black goo (like the kind you dip tool handles in). If you port your reed cages you'll clean up alot of that stuff but you won't mess with it where the reeds shut...

Thanks D34, those tri-tracs are supposed to work well on loose dirt right? Thing is, I won't really know what the track's like until I get there...so I'll take my Hoosiers just in case but likely will run the 40% tread Holeshots. Unless they unload two water trucks on the track 10 seconds before the race I should be OK with those, and if it looks like packed clay I might try my Hoosiers...but thanks for the offer.

Rzcolobanshee posted a link in this forum a while back to an online RZ350 Yamaha service manual, you might check that out (it's on www.2stroke.cc )... Topend is pretty straightforward; drain the coolant, remove the front plastic & fuel tank, pull the carbs (most of this I think you've done), pull the pipes, remove the intakes & reed cages, remove the head (follow the numbers on the head, loosen them 1/4 turn at a time), remove the cylinder nuts (criss-cross pattern, again 1/4 turn at a time), gently tap each cylinder with a rubber/deadblow hammer and remove them, stuff a rag around each con rod before you remove the piston wrist pin snap rings so nothing falls in there, remove the piston wrist pin snap rings and push the wrist pin out...that's pretty much it for the topend aside from boring the jugs, new pistons & gaskets. Make sure you check the ring end gap and keep things oiled with your preferred premix oil, follow the head torque sequence and use a torque wrench in stages (like 10lb, 15lb, then 20lb). Good luck.

The drags are Friday night G, you can still get yer sand on Saturday... Thanks 400grl, I certainly don't consider myself a Pro so I guess I'll see what the track and competition look like...my Holeshots are so worn I might have trouble hangin' with the Amateurs And the drags, all I've ever done was smoke the 4-strokes at the dunes so no tellin' what will happen 8) Are you riding this weekend? I'll PM you a couple tips to try out.

Banchetta is right on as usual...does it still have the TORS? (big boxy things on top of the carbs) If so, make sure all the connections are tight and try again; if it still has problems try disconnecting the control box above the left cylinder. Also check the carb sync, and make sure the slides open fully. Good luck.

YEP!! Taking the shitty HP digital and the 'ol VHS-C camcorder for sure, gonna have to see if I can weasel a friend's little Canon digital Elph too. Can't guarantee decent racing shots (damn digital camera autofocus lag) but hopefully I'll get some good ones. You gonna at least come for the drags theeechozen1?? C'mon man, it's not that far... 400grl, what classes & races are you gonna run? Any idea what the Pro TT field will be like? I'm thinking I'll run Amateur TT but a chance at the pro purse sure is tempting. I guess I'll be running the 2-stroke mod drag class too. Oh yeah, as good as the EX looked, I like your Banshee better, love them chrome T5's, red frame and fat bars...

I was gonna say that 400EX looked great with the Raptor hood...and what can ya say about the Skin graphix :twisted: Nice pics too!

I agree 100% that shit happens, especially at high velocity on a tight trail. But damn dude, if he was friend enough to ride with I woulda at least made sure he got to the hospital if necessary and found out what the damages to him & his bike was...didja do that? Or offer to help fix stuff (not necessarily pay for it but unbend or help replace things)? I mean, if he's a real dumbass or a dickhead, I wouldn't have been riding with him in the first place. I'm not suggesting you kiss his ass or anything, but if I had a buddy down I'd be offering help before he had a chance to talk smack...

Just a reminder, racing this weekend in Tularosa, NM 10/18 and 10/19 if anyone can make it. Next race is November 2nd, I'll post that flyer after this race...

Cool, glad you found the problem...I don't know how many times I've had to pull a carb back off for the damn splash shield; now I set it on top of the bowl so I can't forget it.

I'M THERE!! Hope you can swing it theeechozen1, Glamis ain't goin' nowhere man... 400grl, I know racing ain't cheap, but you're well on your way with a sponsorship from Weller Racing. Here's my cost breakdown for this trip: Truck to get there-$0 (the company I work for is providing a 1-ton with a 100-gallon auxillary fuel tank) Enclosed trailer to haul & sleep in-$0 (my boss just got a Haulmark 6x10, I figure I can haul the Banshee in it and sleep inside) Fuel to get there and back-$0 (the company we get fuel from sponsors me-we burn ALOT of diesel movin' dirt) Entry/gate/camp fees and meals-$0 (our office manager also runs an oil drilling business and uses it as a tax write-off) Gate fees-$0 (Jeremy said he'd waive my gate fee; he's got family in NM and thinks it would be cool for someone to represent) Place to stay Thursday night on the way there-$0 (buddy I worked with moved to Casa Grande and bought a nice new house) Anyways, I talked to Jeremy @ RPM and Jason @ Weller via email, both very cool and helpful. I should show up early Friday to see if I can help out with the race or other racers. I'll most likely be in a white Dodge dually with blue "Ag Services" decals, pulling the little white enclosed trailer. My Banshee is red & white, with #33. Hope to see you there!!

You gotta tap the bowls pretty hard, but usually mine will stick open so fuel starts flyin' out the overflow hoses. Also give it a minute or so to get fuel into the carbs after you turn on the petcock. If still no go, pull the carbs and see if there's fuel in the bowls, and clean the float needle and seat, maybe double check the float height. Also, make sure the choke tube is in place and the slides aren't reversed. Let us know what happens, good luck.

Hell yeah, I can make you a rear number plate like mine fer nothin' if you want, you'll just have to find some numbers (or use one of my "3"s, I got a couple extras), I used a red 5-gal bucket but have some blue or white ones laying around the shop too. If you get ahold of a kill switch I can wire it in real quick-like to the coil, I just soldered mine to the coil connectors. Don't have any extra nerfs tho...