Patriot Racing

Its possible the circlip came off of the shift fork shaft, thereby allowing the shaft to slide over and push the plug out.

That was some of the feedback that I heard people mentioning- thats why I started posting over here- to try to change that perception....one man's crusade I guess....The site has alot of good content- but some absolute terrible BS too that isnt found on some of the sites I frequent.....

No JKJK isnt me. I got emailed about this thread. At first I didnt want to reply to such BS...but I thought- hey why not...certainly cannot bring the conversation any lower with any I have to say. Im not sure why there is such a problem with taking a product and modifying it so that it works in more than one application. Its done all the time with various engine set-ups, but for some reason- its been declared that you're not allowed to do that with Cheetah Cub cylinders. Anyone care to explain why you cant modify this cylinder so that you have the latest technology to work with? Not every motor that is built has to be built for all out top-end performance. You dont do that when porting stock cylinders- so whats the problem when doing that with a Cub cylinder? The Cub cylinder is a great cylinder to work with. If we can take it and have it make awesome top-end power and then modify it so that it works for a awesome woods motor- why not have a win win. Simply from the standpoint of having a plated bore- a Cub cylinder makes sense. You'll save $100 every time you would have had to bore up your old iron bore cylinder- seems they'll pay for themselves. Couple that with the fact that clearances are tighter and the engines tend to run considerably longer between rebuilds- again you are saving money and it kind of pays for itself. Now add in sub exh ports that this cylinder features you can have good exhaust area so that motor makes good power up top, but you have that area with a longer power stroke. Course there is the added transfer area that lends itself to better mid range power. So if we take a motor that has plenty of exhaust area, bring those port timings down so they work with your pipes- doesnt that make sense? Ive never claimed to have the fastest stuff- never will either. Any chimpanzee can make a peaky all peak power motor- it takes talent to make a wide power spread and have good power as well. Thats what we have always focused on- will continue as well, its what the market wants. Name recognition means nothing to me- my work load does- Ive got plenty to keep my shop busy. Thats my gauge of how things are going- how much work and how many repeat customers I have. Talk all the smack you want, frankly I dont care. Its all free advertising. If Im guilty of building custom motors to fit each customer's needs and not building cookie cutter motors- damn that sure sucks. We'll continue to develope the Cub motor and expand our sales with satisfied customers. BHQ has always been an "interesting" site, and to most in the ATV community the bastard step-child that everyone pointed and laughed at. I used to frequent the site quite a bit and helped out. Definately have little desire to be associated with the shit splattering around here.... Sure are going to attract a knowledge base of forum users who want to share thier knowledge with the junior high insults and bashing. Pretty classless- but I dont care- the site will continue to go downhill on its current track. Thats too bad for those who like coming here to read about their Banshee..... Peace out- ride hard and ride often -Dan

The Cub can be made into a very good trail motor- just takes some thought and a slightly different than bolt-on approach that we are capable of to go make good power. The port timings that the Cubs come with are somewhat aggressive for what most riders would need for trail riding. These are the as-cast set-up. However we can drop the cylinders via no base gasket, and use Banshee pistons- which has a higher pin to timing edge than a Blaster piston does. This sets the port timings lower at TDC- as TDC is now higher in relation to the cylinder. You can also deck the base of the cylinder to drop the port timings. The Cubs are an absolutely astounding cylinder- they have great potential- instead of us having to work to squeak out the ever-last little bit of HP and Tq from the crappy stock cylinders- we are actually having to look to de-tune the port timings some to make it a more favorable trail motor. So absolutely yes the Cub can be set-up to made a good trail motor- just as mentioned takes a bit of tweaking to adapt it to an application.

Looks like a CrankWorks with Wiseco rods. Youve got a good crank.

hard to describe typing it---- but use rod ends (heim joints) to build the 4 longer segments. Then weld on U shaped brackets to throw a bolt thru on the frame. Then build you rear plate for the seat latch and 4 more brackets for other end of the segements to attach to. Silencer bracket and youve got a removable sub frame. The geometry is there to make it stiff, but the adjustablility of the rod ends makes it all fit nice....

Get the cast unit. The billet unit is just bling and doesnt offer any advantage over what the cast one can. Save the $ for some other mod!!!

32:1 Never tore down a motor because of too much oil.

Custom domes are the way to go. Your friend is correct, the port timing is most often more favorable with running the stroke out of the top of the cylinders. The spacer adds more potential failure points. The cost of PD domes and spacers, we can getcha setup with custom domes. Shoot us an email. Thanks, Dan

The goods- increased reed area. More flow = more go The bads- Cost- not only is it quite expensive to fab and graft on new reed boxes, but you really need the rest of the cylinder set-up to take advantage of the bigger reeds. The transfers require substantial amount of work to use the available flow. Problem is you start to get close to what an aftermarket cylinder set costs that comes with those reeds already!!!

Oilsmoke .003 for most motors in a fresh bore. Ruko- old worn out parts then- just too much time on those pistons. Id be interested to see the rings themselves- as you have ran such a lean oil ratio, I think the ring wear was accelerated. You all ran the same mix correct???? Ive never torn down an blown engine from too much premix oil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A wet clutch lasts longer with good fresh oil!!!!!

The ring end locating pin can work loose from a sloppy bore. The piston rattles in the bore and causes the pin to walk out. Did they mike out the piston clearance with the worn pistons or just mike the bore and install new pistons? Id wouldnt be suprised to have seen a piston clearance of .006 or greater.

A good head set-up is absoluetly going to get you more power and with greater safety from detonation than carbs will. Stock Banshee carbs work pretty well, and unless there is some decent cylinder mods done, they will work just fine. The money is better spent on a quality head.

The big end rod bearings are most likely going to be OK and not need any parts replaced other than fresh gaskets. When the pistons are removed, not a bad idea to replace those bearings- the wrist pin bearings- and use NEW circlips for the install.