BenBB

I'm almost ready. I gotta find some front tires, that one front is toast. I want some 22" Holeshot XC's but I'm broke (again). I sent a sponsorship letter to Rocky Mountain ATV, doubt it will do any good but what the hell. Other than that I'm good to go, well unless something drastic happens before then...got a TT race in Tularosa this Sunday and gotta ride the dunes now that it's cooling off...

ROFL!!

Thanks Blacksmith, I know there's something down there, from what I've heard here and there it's mostly just sandy desert but there's gotta be some sandhills somewhere. I know Fort Bliss has an AA target range just north of El Paso along the Organ mountains, and Holloman has a bombing range in the vicinity also

Does it happen only when it's wet or been washed Oh sure rub it in Rod mine still does it on occasion but since I've threatened to get some 28's she's let me hit a few puddles without tryin' to kill me again... X5G getting the carbs wet will often cause them (or just one) to stick wide open, nobody's sure exactly why. I've also had one stick when the little guide for the carb slide turned, but that's probably not your case since you can stab the throttle and get it to quit. Oh and a 450 throttle may or may not make any difference, since you're still pulling two carbs...

Did you ever check the compression? To me it sounds like an air/fuel issue, just by the way using the choke makes such a difference; if it was electrical or mechanical (compression, reeds, etc.) the choke likely wouldn't have such an effect... Since you already checked the pilots and for air leaks around the intakes, I would try a leak-down test and see if it's a crank seal, the left side could be sucking air intermittantly (hopefully if that's the case you still have good compression on both sides and no damage). Good luck.

Damn straight.

Son of a...damn it got removed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7927433876 Not sure if someone else posted it already, got the link from the roostlist but couldn't resist posting it, fucking hilarious!!

Come to think of it, other than riding I do enjoy hunting...beaver Luckily where I live it's open season on both year 'round.

Happy birthday Chris!! At least you're not as old as your racing number Have a good one, we got about a month until the next race so make the most of it!

So you're not gonna make it to LS? What about that race in Cisco, did you make it to that one?

If your twist throttle cable is made for the TORS carbs, no it won't work on the TORS-removed carbs. You'll need a new throttle cable, but you can get them pretty cheap, like $20 or so from Toomey or elsewhere.

I'm almost certain the stock stud is 8mm, and you should be able to helicoil it...but I haven't done a helicoil on a cylinder so I'm not 100% certain that it won't cut into a water jacket or something when you drill/tap it. I don't think it will, and a helicoil is supposedly stronger than just drilling and tapping it to a larger size (and you don't run the risk of having to hog out the holes in the head for the larger stud size). Good luck.

Thanks Rod, I was gonna PM you about it, thought if anyone knew about it you might. I found some aerial photographs that show some near Juarez but not sure I'm up for that much of a trip, heh.

I've heard about some dunes near El Paso a couple times but never found out exactly where they're at or how to get there, anybody got an idea? I know about the Kermit dunes, and "Red Sands" between Alamogordo and El Paso, but I could swear I've heard of something closer to El Paso. If anybody knows about them or who I could call to find out, I'd appreciate it.

I'm sure you could and it would work, BUT you'd hafta run the entire RZ setup; stator, flywheel, CDI, voltage regulator, and battery (or battery eliminator). The coil shouldn't matter either way but you may need the PV controller hooked up at least. Compared to replacing the Banshee system I think it would be alot more work, but if you have it just sitting around it could get you by...

That SUCKS!! Holy shit, the frame is just gone, talk about a hot frickin' fire, hot enough to melt (?) aluminum. Hope Tyler can get another quad to finish the season...

First off, I'd like to extend a heartfelt thanks to all the men & women serving in the armed forces, at home and abroad. We do appreciate all you're doing, stand proud and know that we support you 100%. Thanks tschoeberl for the posts, most of us will never know the things you've seen and been through, it's great to hear your viewpoint. Stay safe and come back soon. Know that there are those among us that understand that what you're doing is right and respect your choice to protect the freedoms that we hold dear. Drive on. Part of my job is looking through government contracts for our company (earthwork/excavation). I've seen countless bids go out for private companies to rebuild the infastructure in Iraq, like you said everything from libraries to power generation plants. I think it's a pretty safe assumption that most Americans, hell for that matter most of the world, hasn't the slightest clue about what we've done or continue to do to aid these people. I know for sure that the raghead cowering on a rooftop with an RPG doesn't give a squirt of piss about the millions of taxpayer dollars and efforts of both civilian and military personnel to restore some semblance of civility to a country that's been raped and ravaged by war since the earliest recorded history of man. The point is, someone had to do something. It didn't matter if it was Iraq, Afghanistan, or Timbuktu...you have to start somewhere. What comes around goes around, and you better believe that sooner or later, it's gonna hit home if left unchecked. Politics is politics. It's the second oldest profession in the world and a whole lot like the oldest (prostitution). It's part of the human condition I think, and while our system isn't perfect it's alot better than the alternatives. At least we have a choice, and if we really want to make a difference have the opportunity to do as much as we see fit (I see alot of people bitch about one party or the other, but very few willing to do something themselves). Thanks to the courage and bloodshed of our forefathers we CAN. Along with being human comes taking things for granted, ignorance, and indifference. Fortunately we also have vigilance, purpose, and integrity going for us, so with any luck the few that do can shepard the huddled masses along the path of righteousness. Have some faith, keep an open mind, do what you think is right and educate yourself, only then will you see things clear enough to make your own decisions. As for me, I'll do my part, cast my vote for what I believe to be the lesser of two evils, and see ya out on the dunes...

I'd check with Derisi Racing: http://www.derisiracing.com/atv/atvindex.htm

When you think about it, the big difference is the motor itself; I mean comparing the two you still have alot of the same maintenence stuff. Jetting, coolant, drive chain, air filter, brake pads, etc. etc. Periodic maintenence on a 4-stroke is gonna be engine oil & oil filter, and adjusting the valves. God help you if you need to replace the spark plug. Periodic maintenence on a 2-stroke is gonna be mixing oil & fuel, and changing the tranny oil. Jetting may be a little more sensitive but depending on where & how often you ride, and your mods, but it may not. Seasonal or major maintenence on a 4-stroke is gonna be piston rings and/or piston, possibly timing chain, and possibly a valve job. Seasonal/major maintenence on a 2-stroke is a topend, and maybe reeds. Comparing a YFZ450 to a Banshee I think is gonna be pretty close in terms of complexity, because you have two of everything on a Bansh, but the thumper is alot more complex (valvetrain primarily). In terms of cost the 4-stroke may have an edge, but not a significant one. When you compare complexity AND cost to make it faster, the 2-stroke is the clear winner...

Charging coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire) Pick up coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire) Lighting coil should be .26-.38 Ohms (black to yellow wire)

QuadMX, no front tires at all?

Tithead did you look at the FAQ mate? You test the stator and the pickup coil with an ohmmeter, the specs are right at the top and the procedure is, well somewhere in the middle. You're gonna be testing for resistance, not volts or amps so the motor will be off...and I'm pretty sure the stator produces the current, sends it to the CDI, then the CDI sends current to the pickup coil, and the signal from the pickup coil tells the CDI when to fire the primary coil. I know the FAQ is long but it should cover about everything. Good luck.

If you still have the TORS system, I would try disconnecting the control box on the frame rail right above the left cylinder, and try again with two NEW plugs. If that works, it's probably the e-brake switch out of adjustment or a bad throttle switch, I would get a TORS removal kit and be done with it. If that doesn't work, I'd check the compression first, then start going over the electrical system. From the symptoms, it could be the coil, but it also could be something else entirely (like clogged pilots and/or main jets...if it sat for a while it would be a good idea to clean the carbs and make sure the jets aren't clogged). Good luck.

I'd recommend putting a grease zerk on the carrier, and one on the pivot as well. The carrier is pretty easy, when you get it all apart just drill & tap it for a grease zerk and a vent bolt. I put the zerk right in the rear center of the carrier, and a bolt centered at the top; when you grease it just remove the vent bolt and stop pumping grease into the zerk when it comes out the vent hole. Use the same 6007RS sealed bearings as stock, and just pry the plastic seal off the inside of each bearing so grease can get into the rollers. The axle seals are 62x43x8 and 62x42x8, that's the ODxIDxCC dimensions (metric) and the National part number, you can get them cheaper than from a dealer by going to Holyman or a local bearing store, just make sure the seals are rubberized and the bearings are good quality Japanese or German. If you have stock axle nuts try to follow the directions in the Clymer manual, you don't want to overtighten the nuts and crush the sleeve in between the bearings. On the swingarm pivot, you can either drill & tap the swingarm itself for a zerk, or what I did; since the pivot bolt is hollow, I welded the bolt head end shut, and found a drive-in zerk for the threaded end. Then I just cross-drilled the bolt and the spacer tube with like a 1/16" or so hole, so when I pump grease into the zerk it will flow between the spacer and the bolt, then between the spacer and the swingarm, eventually all the way to the needle bearings and out the dust caps. Works great. Only other tips I can think of is just take your time and if something won't budge try soaking it with penetrating oil first. Oh yeah don't forget some Anti-Sieze on the splines for the brake and sprocket hubs, and the wheel hub when you put it back together. To get the axle out you only need to remove the left wheel hub, the rear brake caliper, the chain, and then (hopefully) slide the axle out through the sprocket hub and carrier, you won't need to remove the disc hub or the right side wheel hub. Good luck.