desertdeweller

you might just check with some local shops, I found one at a local shop in phoenix.

some states require the vin or they will impound your bike with plenty of questions.

wow thats a lot of info your wanting. single dual & tripple rate refers to the spring package on the shocks. typically rears will come in single or dual and fronts any combo of the three. Basically it is meant to be able to have different spring rates for different different parts of the shock travel. So you would have a softer ride in the initial parts of the shock. then you have the primary spring with the stiffest rate for the big hits jumps etc. Some companies also use a dual rate as a way to keep the ride height lower for better cornering. so they run a really soft second spring. as far as the adjustments go compression and rebound that really depends on you as a rider. I know some people spend money on all the goodies but they never touch the adjustment. they just want to say they have them. I myself am always changing mine when I go to different tracks and riding areas. But you do need to let them know what your doing and what mods you have so they can be valved and sprung properly. also take into consideration future mods you will be doing. Some of the higher prices for shocks maybe due to one company using larger shafts and other issues. everyone will have their own opinnion on what is good or bad. depending on their experiences and what they have heard about their 3rd cousins bike they have never met. the remote rezzy are mainly to provide extra oil for the shock and additional cooling. typically duners and rec riders really don`t need them. they are more for woods,desert and mx where they will see alot of whoops or just a constant pounding for hours that will overheat the fluid.

108 /110 sounds really low even for a ported bike.

are you the original owner if not its possible that the previous one, could have run the bike lean and got the rods hot and one failed. I don`t if a crank slipping could cause a failure like that or not. rods pull tremedous g forces at bdc and tdc it could have just been weak to begin with.

yea I got the heavy heims I need them for the type of riding I do. I have already bent my old frame part of the reason for the rebuild. I cut a stock a arm in half prerunning a race here. In some ways I kind of wish I went with a weaker a arm. its easier to replace the arms than it is the frame.

well I talked to fireball and they said asr does sell some of their stuff. I think asr puts their own heims in them. The ones that firball sent look better than the ones from asr but they still run that screwy pin set up. I have a set on my raptor and have not had any problems out of them yet but I will be watching 2 sets now I guess.

just got my a arms in they look real nice. but they also look a lot like the asr arms the ball joint heim looks really beefy. I will have to look at the pin set up to see if it is similar to the asr ones.

Trojan J/k helmet for your riding style, boots, gloves. I like chest protectors they are really only designed for rock deflection. but have saved me from a lot more road rash from crashing they will absorb some of the imact though not much. I have my camelbak mounted on my chest protector as well. so it serves more than one purpose.

I like the bandits also they are a very tuff long lasting tire. I would eat holeshots in 2 desert races, the bandits have about 2 years on them now. They are stiff enough you could probably ride them flat but I have never punctured one yet to find out. Like mentioned earlier they are pricey and heavy but they last a long time.

I bought a kit for mine awhile back it was only like 4 bucks

A RAPTOR! kidding man I have one too they are not bad bikes add a intake kit and at least a slip on and a injection controller really wake them up.The torque is great on the trails you can be in too tall of gear and lug the motor through it. I plan on changing the gearing on mine, not enough top speed for me even with the high speed limiter disconnected . first seems to low I plan to go to 15 tooth on the front. put some plus 2 a arms makes them less tippy. one thing I didn`t like about is I think the steering stem is to short I went to a taller one on mine and I am not very tall only 5`8". Oh one other thing if you crash a raptor hard like serious barrel role or cart wheel on hard pack. expect to shell out some cash. The radiator isn`t protected well. I smashed all the front bumper brackets on mine and caved in the radiator. buper brackets were easy to fix the radiator was expensive 450. for after market oem was even more. have fun on it

just saw this on another thread check your fuel cap vent. The guy lost a top end on a customers bike it turned out the vent was bad. Not letting the tank breathe starving the engine of fuel.

I would still experiment with the gearing you might find a combination that works really well for you. you already have the 14 it won`t cost you any thing to try it. if it seems to low throw the 22`s on there see how that works. if not switch it back it will give you an idea of what you and your bike likes.

another exception is if the frame has been replaced with a factory replacement then it will not have a vin. it may have a state id # and they could have put that anywhere. I will be going through that pretty soon replaced my old bent frame .I have to get the new one inspected once the bike is reassembled. all they will issue is a sticker here. So I will stamp or engrave the frame myself and hide the sticker some place so it does get washed off. That will also vary from state to state

I just put one on mine yesterday to see if I will like it or not. the needle is on the 3rd position dek 52 pilot 185 main. it starts fine and revs clean. Idk if this will be my final setting I won`t get a chance to ride it for a couple of weeks. But your not to far off from where mine is so I would look at the float level. of coarse depnding on your mods you may need more or less jetting

do you have an fittings on the ones you are running? They don`t usually have problems with those fittings. Mine are from atv racing they came with the a arms that I purchased from them. they have a clear protective liner over the steel braid to keep it from getting torn up,a lot of a companies sell them.

maybe the float level in your left carb was off starving that side some. mabe a crank seal got damaged when it was installed

I think atv racing in phoenix makes a long travel kit for them if I remember right they sel a bunch of stuff for the pilots.

he charged me 500.00 for the +3 and yes pced I don`t know if the +2 would be any cheaper or not. They have some a arms that are designed around the yfz shock also I don`t know what they do different to them. but that might be an option for some people that are looking to put those shocks on

If you want more leg room you could put a desert seat on and a taller steering stem. A desert seat will add about 2.5" in height. I bought mine from ceet new foam and cover not to difficult to install I think hi flight has them too. but chassis wise shocks that are set up for you so your sag is set right. you might also check into some pro peg nerf bars for leg room some brands have the pegs lowered an inch compared to stock.

Maybe your carbs are getting worn and the float is hanging up on you. My stockers had that problem too the emulsion hole that the needles went into were oval shaped from being worn, the floats had a lot of side to side slop in them and would hang up inside the carb.

did you remember to install the choke tube

2000 chevy 1500 wifes commuter, 05 dodge 2500 with a cummins and edge box my commuter and hauler, my street toy 72 el camino with a 406 roller motor

Thank You I will check them out.