desertdeweller

I wonder if the cylinder port work could be causing it?

It does vary I took my new frame down along with the old one title in hand. they said they would not inspect it until the bike was reassembled. Which really sucked because I was planning on taking my time with it doing a total rebuild. They want to see all my receipts too.

you will be fine with it, you can play with the settings to make it more comfy for you. many people run stock shocks.

seems to be a lot of that around here lately. must be something in the eggnog or maybe it is the eggnog

as far as the yfz shocks fitting that will vary from company to company. My old a arms atv racing arms had ball joints they didn`t have any more travel than stock. My new ones fireball racing has heim joints they have more travel than stock. those shocks will fit with out having to compress them. Yes it will sit higher because the shock is longer. There is no way to say which brand is best. best is dependent on what you want/need. Some riders want basic extended a arms with no adjustments. Me I like adjustments because I have a habit of changing riding or racing styles. I wouldn`t recomend anything other than chromoly for steel in the a arm. You might have a choice between ball joints being press or screw in again depending on maker. screw in is much easier to replace when needed. You also may have the choice of getting heim style ball joints. some people don`t like them I have never had a issue with them. some a arm companies offer some pretty good waranties to if you bend or break them something to consider. They will run in price anywhere from the ebay 400 buckers on up to over a grand. again that depends on what you want

6th gear wot and a big ramp eerrr oh never mind wrong type of launch. other than that feather the clutch istead of dumping it.

have you done a compression test lately maybe the top end is getting tired

I am not sure of the thicknesses but a friend told me if you call cometic they have gaskets in different thickness they even cut some for him.

I just looked at the conversion kit its 200.00 for it my new frame was like 550.00. So something for you to consider its not hard to swap everything over yourself. I am sure you can find a good used one for less. That way you don`t have to worry about it being done right.

wow holy double post batman, hmm I hit edit and it posted it again after editing oh well

atvracing1.com they sell a conversion kit not sure how they work or anything might check in to it

atv racing in phoenix, fireball racing I think there in cali, there are more. thats all I have run on my shee are the +3 I like em

Wow I am surprised no one went with get it ported and maybe the head milled. A new head,timing plate or reeds are easy bolt ons that could be done down the road with a little saving. If you got the cash to port it I would think about that, then add the bolt ons later. that way you could start with a solid foundation and build around it.

http://www.fireball-racing.com/arms.htm http://fireballracing.net/ They have 2 different web sites but yea I do believe those are fireballs. They make them with ball joints or heims riders choice. fireball also makes the asr arms for them. you can get them without the little skid plate on the lower a arm. I got mine on sale they were quite a bit cheaper than whats on the web site.

I think those are fireball racing a arms buy the looks of the spacers. I think they cost slightly more or the same as what he told you new.

looks like you need to put some air in the bottom of that tire haha just jokin man lookin good

handle grips haha I put an 01 raptor works rear shock on my shee haven`t tested it yet but its about an inch longer.

I got a little lost too. so a 12 mil cub motor with drag port and stock pipes will work for mx and tight woods? If not why? j/k :biggrin:

I will probably wait until it needs a new top end and do it all at once. The motor is still out on the bench the chassis is back to being a roller. I think I will go ahead and get it back together and work out those bugs before I create new ones.

The top end is in good shape it only has about 10 hrs on it. I didn`t check the crank the last time I had it apart, the compression was 165 and 164 with 19 domes.

How long do bottom ends usually last before needing a rebuild? I know it will vary from rider to rider and bike to bike.I am thinking I may be due to rebuild the bottom end. it is 10 years old 3 seasons of desert racing and practice, some flat track time as well, on it some dune trips never been apart 4 or 5 top ends though. I was thinking on going 4 mil with some porting. but the way they are talking around here on cracking down on decible noise and spark arrestors. I am not sure if there are any decent spark arrested silencers out there that wouldn`t kill those mods. currently I am running t-5s I have torn the bike down and replaced the bent frame and other worn out items shocks etc.. I was thinking since I have gone that far might as well tear into the motor. It runs fine just can`t make up my mind if I should and if it would be worth changing it. I mainly just trail ride it now might do some more desert races. but more power is always good :ermm:

if I remember reading it right with the yfz front end the bike will sit a little lower. I don`t know if that is with stock shocks or the yfz shocks. The yfz shocks are longer than the banshee shocks so it may really lower the bike if you run the works. Something you might check into there was other posts that covered that stuff you might do a search to verify

as mentioned check for air leaks also pull the flywheel and see if you sheared the key on it. maybe something happened when you installed the timing plate oh and check the air gap on the pick up.

I would call elka to see what they recommend for setting your sag. Then adjust your compression setting to 2 clicks out from the softest setting ride it and see if you bottom off jumps or anything. Youshould bottom lightly every great once in awhile. If you don`t then your not using all of your suspension. Rebound set that in the middle ride it through whoops and see what it does. if it bounces like a pogo stick or bucks add more rebound if it packs take some rebound out then try it again. only do one adjustment at a time. Is that elkas dual rate self sagging shock if so they do have a lot of sag in them to help it corner better. but I would call them. I think sag is usualy like 10% of travel

you might try that gearing before you change it. I run that same set up with mine and even in low speed technical trails it pulls just fine.