desertdeweller

IR composit 1" impact they are great for removing all them bolts on the shees. haha I actually use the lowes impacts also for home never had any problem with them. At work we have crapsman which we always destroy. But its what the company buys so oh well. we have gone out and bought some of our tools and brought them in to the shop because the crapsmans fail so often. even there hand tools are junk. I don`t know what happened to them.you can feel the jaw stretch on the open end wrench when you tighten something down. proto has the same tool manufacture that crapsman does or they used too. but proto was better quality, overpriced though

yea the original tax title and licensing from the dealer was supposed to go to that also. Then when the state got in bind as they are now.They just simpily decided to reallocate the funds to the states general fund. just learned of another law that start s jan 1 also if your license plate frame covers the word arizona on your vehicle plate. it will be 130.00 fine

you have to have a title regardless under this program even for just the ohv tag. but yes they have 2 street legal programs plan a is basically for incidental street use.Which basically means if your in one riding area and have to travel down the street or a primitive road to get to the next area you can. plan b would be full street legal both would require you to have insurance. The difference if I read it correctly with plan b you would be required to do emissions testing, the same as any commuter car.

yep and the state really needs the money bad. thats why they are installing an additional 300 photo radar cameras around here. I am assuming that 99.99% of this money will go to other things than ohv programs. we were screwed on that once before I am sure it will happen again.

As of jan 1 all ohv`s will be required to be titled and licensed with a annual registration non competion of coarse. so if you are thinking of buying a used bike save yourself some hassle and make sure it is titled at least. link below fees to be determined which might dictate if I decide to sell any of my toys 3 quads a sandrail plus a hotrod and 2 commuters something may have to go. http://www.azgfd.gov/outdoor_recreation/ohvFAQ.shtml

mod the air box and dump the tors if not already done. after the cool head and timing I would say suspension. +2 a arms with better shocks revalve,respring or replace the rear shock. suspension is an after thought for a lot of people. good suspension and steering stabalizer will benefit a woods/cross country rider a lot.

I used to buy it in the 5 gal bucket that was the cheapest way I found to get it. But I don`t ride or race that much any more to justify that much oil on hand. It was like 120.00 through one of my old sponsors.

This may seem weird but I have heard of people having problems with meth detonating in their exhaust from being to fat, but it was in a oval track car. You mentioned above a similar bike running leaner and running ok. And another post about the plugs being wet. you might be getting excessive fuel in your pipes causing the detonation to happpen in there. I told you it sounds weird but hot spots like carbon could be the source of ignition in the pipes. but you might try to close off your power jets like the other bike and maybe lean it out a tad. or just the powerjets first and see if it improves, seems like you covered everything else.

steering stabilizer I prefer 23" front tires with 22" on the rears for a little more gound clearance. If doing long trail rides larger fuel tank. nerf bars help protect the feet in rocky situations. desert seat has extra padding, taller steering stem for comfort

It will realy depend on what you like stiff versus soft. but since your pretty light I would start out on the soft side with your preload and compression. Set your rebound in the middle make a few runs over your favorite terrain and see how it feels. If your jumping and botoming hard add some preload to it a couple of turns to see if it helps. then go to your compression settings do a couple of clicks and try again. whoops is realy the best place for making rebound adjustments. If your rebound is set to slow it can shorten travel because it is not responding fast enough that it turn makes your compression feel stiff because of the lack of travel thats called packing. And if its to fast it will feel like it wants to bounce in the air after the impacts. Only do one adjustment at a time compression or rebound don`t do both then test. sometimes the adjustments are real fine and hard to tell if you did anything.So you may want to go 2 clicks each time to which ever one your changing then fine tune when your close. did you have to compress the shocks to fit in the arms? If so you basically have some preload built into it.

pro taper makes 7/8 bars that will work with stock hardware

just realized you are ported you should be able to handle most of them then with the basic mods.

compression should be typically as soft as possible If you start bottoming then stiffen it up. The softer the comp the easier it will be on your hands and arms. rebound everyone likes something different as well as different terrains. Whoops typically a pretty fast rebound to keep the shocks from packing, but you don`t want it to feel like a pogo stick either. other that you might just play with it and see what you like.

I have a 700 they are decent bikes but I don`t think they are all that. Maybe its just me I have always been a bigger fan of 2 strokes. A lot of raptor 700 raptor owners don`t know they have a high speed retard in them it activates in 5th gear ans slows them down. even with it unplugged I think they needed a 6th gear in them. I have a few mods on pipe air box kit and a controller. similar mods to the banshee I think the banshee would take it on top. out of the hole the raptor hooks a lot better and gets moving faster but the banshee would probably pull it from mid up. Even though the raptor has newer chassis I don`t think it really handles any better. I will be taking the raptor to the dunes over turkey day, wish I was taking the banshee but its not done. The other thing about the raptor if you flip it breaks a lot more stuff.

Are you running the air box lid and snorkel or is it open? if you are running the lid, porting and stroking might not get you much at all do to the air box being so restrictive.

I think I would cover the basics first then port it when the top end gets a little tired. a lot will depend on your riding style. strickly dunes , dunes / trail, drag , hill shooter. But get a filter kit, {the stock filter set up sucks} and outer wear, good pipes, jet it, eliminate the tors set up, The stock carbs will run pretty decent for a lot of the mods. suspension is always a good thing to modify. If your not using the exsisting power more power will not make you faster. but Like mentioned earlier that depends on type of riding

true 2 mmwould be around .090. hmm is he running a head gasket with the cool head?

when you first started it how did the compression feel was it easy to kick over or did it feel like it had a lot of compression. I wonder if they gave him long rod or stroker pistons

Sorry to here about your back. I am a mechanic also but for small equipment and have problems with my hands too. Like bell mentioned earlier had to get rid of my street and dirt bikes because I couldn`t hang on to them. went to 4 wheelers and now 9 years later I am starting to have the same issues on the 4 wheelers as the bikes. I have severe tendonitus {spelling} in both hands nothing can be done for it. 4 wheelers with steering wheels may be in my future. It`s getting harder and harder to work on things these days particulary in cold wheather, but I keep plugging along. Do get more opinnions though.

Thats pretty good on the fuel especially for riding across dunes that tends to use more fuel. after reading some of the other posts around the board on mileage it seems to vary greatly. A lot of that may have to do with mods and everyones idea of conservative or aggressive riding style is different as well. I like to do long trips as well and sometimes compete in desert races. I am kinda leary of doing any port work or to many more mods to my bike. for the reason it might kill what mileage I do have.

some oils are just that bad. I went to an engine failure class on chainsaws you should have seen how dirty some of the oils were. none of them were used for bikes how ever. they compared some of their all of their own brands and some out board oils. The synthetics were by far the cleanest some of the low smoke oil they used to offer were as bad as the out board oils. some of the oils would cause the rings to be stuck and the exhaust plugged. I am sure some of the 2 stroke oils for bikes are just as bad. Buying cheap oil now might save you a couple of bucks. but if your tearing down the top end every 20 or 30 hours because of running cheap oil, or fouling plugs every other ride. Your not saving a dime and often spending more.

I would agree with the 4 mil and port work. get your internals taken care of then you can play with bolt ons later. If you go into to do a stroker it only makes sence to port it at the same time since you have to pull the motor apart any ways. You already have the basics covered they can easil be upgraded down the road.

you can have both. I prefer thumb also you can do things like trim the springs to soften up the thumb it makes a big difference on the long rides.

looks like it may have a boost bottle on it. if it does remove as soon as possible and get a stock cross over tube. also check the intake boots where the bost bottle slides into for cracks.

so I take it he won`t spend the 10 bucks or whatever to get a dupicate for you? or is one of those cases where he had the title never got it transfered into his name and lost it so now he can`t get a duplicate.