desertdeweller

yes they will, the mounting points are the same. The only thing is since you changed your leverage ratio you might have to get them resprung or valved. Your best bet is to just try it out to see if you want to change them or not. you may find them to be to soft depending on how you ride, they also maybe fine for you. I did a similar change to mine before. I actually liked the ride better when I had the +3 arms on it with the shocks that were set up for the +2

a good v day present for someones girl

+1 never had any issues with it in my bikes, sandrail, or the race cars other than it saving a bunch of money. some race fuel companies use av gas as a base stock then put in their own additives. The only thing I had to do with av gas is go slightly richer on jetiing.

jets for all that extra power and airflow

Nerfs are like my helmet I won`t ride with out them. they have saved my azz quite a few times. More so in desert riding and racing than than the dunes, but they have come in useful there as well.

yes they are completely rebuildable

The speed limiter and gearing kill the raptors top end. I have a banshee and a raptor, when the raptor was stock it would beat the banshee off the line it just hooked up better top end the shee would kill it. I have by passed the speed limiter regeared the raptor and added the big 3 mods. pipe,intake, and programmer. The big 3 helped power a lot on bottom and mid but the top end still fell off bad. Then I did the by pass that helped quite a bit. The speed limiter retards timing in 5th gear its like someone throwing a parachute on the thing. The gearing I think made it much more rideable, first gear was to low and almost useless. I went with a 15 front it keeps the motor in the power range longer. I still might play with the gearing a little more on the rear. The raptor would be something with a 6 speed trans. Even with the gearing change I did I still find myself searching for 6th sometimes. I think If I raced both on asphalt where traction wasn`t a problem I think it would be fairly close race between them.I tell you what though I like the ergonomics on the banshee better, I think its also funner to ride. I am probably an average height guy 5`8", on the raptor I feel like I am riding a croch rocket for some reason. I have flipped both bikes several times and the banshee seems to damage less items.

have your stocker resprung and revalved or buy aftermarket

we went to an area southwest of butter cup the wall was up and I could see no end to it. but I did ride down it very far either. some other riders that were there said the leo`s were geting cranky about people riding down the road next to it. I used ride into all the time and never had any problems with the leos but I am sure times have changed. that wall there is pretty well built. about 15` tall with braces kicked out about a 45degree angle at the bottom. from what i understand they go about ten feet into the ground. the tubes are filled solid with something guessing cement. last time there they were draining and modifying the canal that went south also.

can you still ride into mexico? When I was down there for tday we rode to the great arizona wall that the feds have built to stop border crossings. Is there a place that is open now, that fence closed down some riding area at buttercup.

do you still have the tors?

it could be the stator the charging coil for lighting on the stator is seperate from the ignition coil. So it is possible to have good lights and a spark problem and vise versa. but I would try the easier and cheaper items first. stock stators are usually pretty durable.

where abouts in phoenix are you moving to? there are a ton of places to ride around here really some just don`t care to do it during the summer. I am just the opposit thats when I ride the most. guess its kinda like going to glamis on the off weekends, hardly anybody around then.

I just had a class on this a few months back engine failure analyist. What they said is a lot of 2 cycle oils come with a stabalizer in it already. gas in plastic cans especially see through deteriorates the fastest due to sun light penetration. If left in the sun actually starts deteriorating in a few days also lose more fuel due to permiation {spelling}. Fuel in plastic containers left in doors should be used with in a few weeks a month to 1/12 with stabilizer in it. They said with out a stabilizer it could lose 10% of its octane in the first few weeks. They brought in some weedeaters for us to blow up one had the cooling system completely wrapped in plastic wrap, another ran with out 2 stroke oil, another with bad gas, and other with various problems air leaks etc. They had us put down times on how long it would take each machine to blow up. The plastic wrapped one was the fastest went into detonation at 8 min completely seized in 13min. I got to operate the one with bad gas it was second quick at 14 min 35 sec. I tore it apart all rings were stuck, stunk to high hell bad scoring in he cylinders. The next in line was no 2 cycle oil it lasted 15 min and 20 sec. after pulling it apart it was determined that it lasted longer than expected for a couple of reason. 1. it had already been run for a while previously so it had some residule 2 cycle left in the bottom of the case. The top end already had some clearance because of the time on it, and didn`t allow friction to build as fast. 3 the carb was also running rich and gas has some lubrication properties to it. so old gas you can lose octane as well as lubrication properties. granted the fuel I ran in that thing was about a year old. They showed the problems of cheap gas and quality gas it was pretty significant over time.They even showed some of their failures in 2 cycle oil it was a prety cool class. sorry about the book.

one way you can check the frame is measure from the grab bar to handle bars both sides make sure the bars are straight. then meassure the wheel base on each side, Center of spindle to center of rear axle. That is how I found my bend I tried of across the frame measurements and was only getting like a 1/16th of here or there. My wheel base from left to right was off 2" you could see it looking at the suspension, but looking at the frame everything looked and measured real good. I was trying to redo my allignment and couldn`t figure out why it was not getting duplicate #s on the caster and camber settings. The slight bend in frame was basically multiplied by the arms. kinda hard to explain it right but even a small bend can be big by the time you add the other components to it.until I got the motor and everything out then I could see the lower a arm cradle area was pushed to the left. You look at the steel nothing is crushed or looks stretched. bought a new frame all my measurements are on now.

I guess I need to do mine also going through a total rebuild right now. mine are still the original bearings. 10 years on them a couple of years of desert racing and a bunch of dune trips. never even had them apart to grease them. I think thats the only area of the bike I never touched.

I would call lonestar maybe they sent the wrong stuff

fireball racing actually makes asr stuff although the quality of the asr stuff doesn`t seem as good as fireballs. I have asr on my rappy and fireball on the shee. having the same issues as others have mentioned before now. pc is starting to chip pretty easy, one of my heims is seized inside the arm.I even put anti seize on the threads the bike has never seen water other than a car wash. I asked fireball if they made asr arms he said yes but didn`t sound happy about it. If you haven`t bought them yet I would a different direction. I was happy with them at first but like others have changed my mind since then.

the only time I have seen that set up used was with a aftermarket chassis, such as the leagers frame with 250 r geometry up front and the rear had the 500 link. don`t know if it would work with a stock frame and swinger or the benefits of it.

score, bitd,worcs,and I think snore also for CA - Nevada area races. whiplash does desert racing all over az and a few in mexico. They do smaller courses than the previous mentioned places cater more to the little guy.

I think by the time you buy that kit and pay some one to weld it on if you can`t do it yourself. you would be better off to purchase another frame and switch everything over.

the rear you could have rebuilt with out any problems. It depends on what you want done and the condition of your shock. I don`t think the fronts can be and even if they could it would be a waste of time and money. Prices will vary from shop to shop and as mentioned before what needs to be done. could be as cheap as a 150.00 to over 500.00 with new valving and spring etc.for fronts as mentioned before buy some good used or a new set depending on your cash flow. check around your area to see if anyone local does quality rebuilds if not your gonna have to ship yours off or oder another set.

The stock fronts only have preload adjustments, so you could increase that a notch or two. The rear if your only having problems with it on compression and ok with the rebound. since compression is easy to change I would try adjusting that a few clicks unless you are bottoming super hard. then you will need to increase preload maybe even a spring change. At 160 pounds you really shouldn`t need a spring change Thats in the range of the factory springs, when was the last time your was rebuilt? it may need to be gone through.

I have mounted one on my bike but haven`t ridden it still doing the rebuild and need other parts. I have a +2 swing arm on mine it was a direct bolt on. It is like 3/4 longer if I remember right. The longer swing arm will also make it sit a little higher than it would have with a stock swing arm. My shock is a works with a remote rezzy and dual rate spring. So I am not sure if a stock raptor shock will work if it has a fixed rezzy. do a search on here I know someone else did and they liked it but don`t know if it was a stock shock or not

actually one more thing to add to that list #3 dance