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Still up for sale, I tried E2S but they require you to buy credits to do stuff on there so I didnt even make a post

There are alot of people squeezing R1 motors into banshees so Im sure that 600 would be pretty easy. Sounds like a cool project, as long as you got the tools such as welder, griinders etc. to do some frame mods or you got a buddy that has the stuff that will help you, I say go for it! Keep us updated as to progress and pics :thumbsup:

Yeah it did because of the EFI system and a few other goodies. The EFI system actually weighs a good amount for its size, but as far as the bike goes its pretty nice Ive heard some good things. If you get one you should check out Sonic Off-road the built an independent rear suspension for almost every 450 and the raptor 700 that adds more ground clearance and barely any weight its pretty nice.

Thats pretty much exactly what I did just not as precise on the measurements. I've had a couple friends get rid of there VF3's after I showed them what I can do... Not just on a banshee but a few different 2-strokes

Id say 2800 is a little steep, Id say 2300 ish. About 12-13 for the blaster and like 900 for the other. It depends on where your at too that will be your main determining factor

If it was me Id send them to brandon (Slobanshee06) the guy that first answered your post. He's a great guy to deal with and the work he's done for me is top notch, He will answer anything you ask and help you in anyway even long after he's done your work... Jeff @ FAST is another great guy but he has a long turn around time due to alot of customers, and Passion I have heard both good and bad about so I cant really say anything there

you can always trim them with a pipe cutter if theyre to wide I like the renthals or pro-tapers

I like the candy red with the silver, but candy blue looks good too

Its actually just as good as getting VF3's. heres how you do it I used a dremel and I carbide cutting tip to do the major work, then a flat pretty coarse file to help finish shaping it up then finish it off with a triangular fine file, But you can use anything that gets the job done... with the dremel really watch what your doing so you do take to much out it works fast. so what you want to do is use the stock reed petals as a template. on the bottom and inside edge grind it down to where the petal will just barely rest on the cage maybe half a millimeter of a little less. On the outside edge just basically grind off the lip. Then ontop grind it up about 1cm. or about 2mm. below the screw holes, then reshape theinside a little to get smoother flow because you created a drop on the top part. Then I like to use the Boyesen carbon fiber dual stage reeds or the carbon flex 2-stage reeds from vito's (theyre the same thing). Those reeds will cover up any little mistakes you made if you went to far or created a nick that you couldn't grind out because of lack of material.

welcome to the HQ, and yeah pretty much everyone makes fun of them because they're for people who dont actually know what they're doing. They dont help at all and you actually lose performance from them.

Call the builder you'll be sending it to and ask him... Pretty sure you can fix it. Thats the point in getting it trued and welded so that dont happen lol :biggrin:

I havn't bolted mine up yet but I think one side is a little longer. That would make sense because on the stock pipes the little middle pipe that connects the head pipe to the silencer stinger is longer on one side... IDK why though

It depends on what he wants to do with the bike... CPI's make there power in the mid to top end so if he plans on doing dunes or dragging with occasional trail riding then yeah they'll be fine, but right now they wont reach their potential until you mod a little more then they will be perfect so for dune/drag bike that you are planning on modding alot more good choice. If you mostly ride trails with some dunes and drag I would suggets some Toomey T-5's. It all depends on what type of riding he does. As far as future mods the basics that everyone does are cool head with smaller domes for higher compression, adjustable timing plate with advanced timing, reed mods of some kind, and porting

First off welcome to the HQ Well you already have pipes so the first few things your should do are porting to match your type of riding (trail riding= aggressive trail port, dune riding=dune port etc.) then a cool head with smaller domes for higher compression, adjustable timing plate and port your stock reed cages and get aftermarket reed petals. THe TORS is the biggest POS yamaha has invented... do a search and youll find how to get rid of it. As far as maintance just the usual stuff... greesing bearings and what not, chain lube changing tranny fluid etc.

As daj was saying... The reason for a long rod is simple, less stress. A stroker and long rod are 2 different things. Let me try to rephrase what he said and see if that helps. The stock banshee crank has a 110mm long piston rod. A 115mm long piston rod (5mil long rod) just puts less stress on the cylinder walls because your pistons are being pushed against them. A stroker crank makes your piston move up and down more. So a 4mil. would move the piston 2mm higher and 2mm lower because the ro journals on the crank are of set 2mm. So that 2mm up and 2mm down equals 4mm. 2+2=4 A long rod stroker crank such as the 4mil long rod (+4mil +5mil crank) moves the piston higher 2mm and lower 2mm because of the stroker, but it also has a longer rod. So it puts less stress on the cylinder walls. Does it make sense like that?

Thats how we do it... Make it loud so you never notice the little things :biggrin:

Alot of the guys on here use engine ice, but I think Im going to give some Dex cool a try because I live in AK and I dont want it turning to slush in the winter... WE have about a week or 2 weeks of - degree temps. But Id say give the engine ice a try

yeah 250 for sure... You like it alot more than the 125 especially for your size, Im only 205 and I liked a 250 4-stroke alot better than the 125. That was stock though.

Nobodies interested?

You'll love it... My suggestion is set up a bank account the misses cant touch and start saving for mods because youll want more power soon lol, its an addiction. As far as them being king whats a new 4-stroke cost like 8,000? You got yours for 2,000... Put 2,000 more into the whole machine not just the motor and you'll have all your 4-poke buddies going WTF are you hiding in that engine

You know the more I see stuff like this the more and more I wish I went with a 4mil. and bigger carbs in my build

Nice looking setups man, what you runnin' for the new one... a Cub?

BUMP

Here's mine True/welded crank, Wiseco Pro-lite pistons, Agressive trail ported cylinders, Pro-Design cool head w/ 20cc domes, Ported/polished reed cages (by me), Boyesen Dual stage carbon fiber reeds, +4 Timing, Tusk clutch kit w/ 3 HD springs 3 stock springs, Toomey T-5's, Ceramic coated cylinders and pipes/silencers, cleaned/slightly polished case, Some other polished stuff Your FMF's will work just fine, so dont worry about switching to Toomey's

Hey bro sweet project, but I hate to tell you this... You can't have an orange frame... I called dibs because it's the only thing I havn't seen anyone on this forum have... And the frame is going in like this week... And if you have it then I wont be the only one so far soooo your going to have to change those plans... :yelrotflmao: Im just messing with ya' bro, I think the orange will look sick I planned for a metallic orange, what plastics ya going with man? keep us updated on the build :thumbsup: