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Ok guys I switched the wires and the plugs and its still in the left cylinder... Im almost thinking I should do a compression because its got week exhaust and or it fires only like half the time. So what do you guys think it could be now that that is checked off?

How well you guys think it would work on a frame?

Yeah I am but I modded the lid so its only like 2 inches long so it holds the air filter but is open

No the builder I talked to said you should put it through a couple heat cycles then do a leak down and compression test and re-tighten everything OK guysIll try swapping them and see what happens,

OK thanks man, you think it could be anything else?

Well if the dent is in both pistons and it has b7es, correct me if im wrong but the b7es plugs sit farther down in the cylinders, depending on the head maybe he cut them to clear, or thought he needed to cut them to clear.

I dont think it running lean would cause a dent. It looks like someone took a hammer to it, so Idk man. I would think any major impact wouldnt dent it because thats the strongest part of the piston. I would think it would break something off

would the carbs make it not fire though? cuz its getting air and fuel just not firing.

Ok so I made a recent post about the motor I just put together, and for some rason I cant find it any more? anyways... I put a new motor together thought it was running ok, but the left cylinder seemed a little rich... ran some carb. cleaner through and examined the problem closer... the left cylinder just doesn't want to fire it only fires like half the time.... I wont be able to work on it till tomorrow so I figured Id start brain storming possibilities. Im thinking ignition wires are backwards, bad wire or plug, or some kind of electrical... what can you guys think of that might cause this?

Welcome man, you'll find everything you need for your shee here.

Yeah there's only 2 from the factory. I use some liquid gasket on both sides of the reeds

I figured it could be the slide but im pretty sure I checked them before I put them in... but ill re-check I was thinking it could be the air/fuel screw or the high idle screw, just wanted to get some insight that might help

OK so got the shee mached up and I was going to break in the motor, but when I started it and let it run for a minute or 2 I noticed the left cylinder had more gray looking smoke out of the exhaust and the exhaust on that side is cold so once I gave it a little gas Its like it cuts out... can you guys help me as to what it could be

Yeah I was going to say dremel, but for future reference let it soak with WD40 then take a torch and heat it up really good then try and get it off while its cooling it may take a few tries

didnt read it but to answer those 2 questions, those are the most popular becaause theyre the best go with those

Its been thought up and asked about many times before, alot of guys are probably going to give your crap because your "disgracing a banshee" but if you want to try it then go for it... In fact I think a guy recently was doing a post on progress on his banshee powered YFZ project

I agree poorboy they look good stretched, infact Ive seen so many that once I put my shee back together the other day it just looks wierd with the stock swinger

Well its going to depend on how much you ride, but banshee's are pretty reliable you can mod them out quite a bit and they'll still be reliable

Thats what IM wondering if its just warming up, I dont really know on the exhaust Havn't even broken it in and I only ran it for like 3 couple second periods... Ill just try it tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for the help

I kick it over, it starts first kick, then I just let it sit and it slowly starts idling higher... I amy just have to let it idle for a minute or tap the throttle

Im at 0-500ft. and If im lean it might be by one size so Im thinking its the pilots.

You can get new ones from maier but you have to buy them new... Why do you want to just paint them white? If your trying to refresh them you can sand them back to a new finish... you use like 500 grit then 1000 grit then like 2000 grit paper, I havn't done it but Im sure some that has will chime in

Ok guys just got the shee back together... well atleast mocked up, and I was going to break in the motor before I take it apart again to finish the chassis mods (I'll post pics in the next couple days), but the problem is when I went to start it it keeps trying to idle up with out me touching anything... Here's my thoughts- the compression is really high, the pilot jets are wrong because its like 12 degrees outside and I have the stock pilot jets in, I got rid of the TORS system so something is wrong, something in the carb. is sticking... can you guys help me out? Here's my mods if that helps True/welded crank, Wiseco Pro-lite pistons, Agressive trail ported cylinders, Pro-Design cool head w/ 20cc domes, Ported/polished reed cages (by me), Boyesen Dual stage carbon fiber reeds, +4 Timing, Tusk clutch kit w/ 3 HD springs 3 stock springs, Toomey T-5's, 330 main jets, stock carb.

I would think for the price though you could just search on ebay and find an aftermarket one, but I could be wrong. If it can be rebuilt though i might go that route

Go with a long rod... no power difference but the long rod is more reliable. It create less side load on the piston and therefor less stress on the cylinder wall, piston, and rod... and less wear.