278

Best thing to do is call toomey and find out I'd imagine you can since they are removable.... Im guessing you been having some fun with some wheelies? lol :biggrin:

Three Bond 1911

Nice shee, but he should really look around on this site before he claims its the best "Work of Art" haha :yelrotflmao:

The one Im taking my stuff to does sand blasting, a 5 stage wash, and uses the high quality zinc self etching primer... he charges 180-200 for the frame, 30 for the swinger and 10-15 for any other little nick nack parts so 200-300 depending on what all your getting done

Ok thanks guys, Ill give it a try and I'll post some pics of the final project when it's done. :smile:

I may just try some JB weld or some kind of high temp epoxy, I'm not to worried about engine heat just the ceramic coating I like to bake on even though you can let the engine heat bake it on for you... I like to bake it on I think it works a little better, but it take 400F degrees for I think and hour or hour and a half so if JB can take that then I might consider that.

This is true, but put pipes on both and see what wins it doesn't take much for a shee to beat a 450 after you've gotten past the stock stage. About them being fast... speed costs money, how fast you want to go? With stock IDK how fast they are, but who cares about mph numbers, the only thing that matters is if you can beat the guy next to you or not. If not its time to spend some more $$$

I think what I'm going to do is take it to one of my buddies and have him sand blast the whole thing then fill it in with his welder then just grind the welds down and coat it. It's free so it cant hurt. thanks for the help guys

I think the black will look good but it is a very popular choice, if your looking for clean go with all black if you want different do some tribal and what not like Blewbyu said, personally I like to be different so after great consideration I have come up with a color scheme that I have not yet seen on this site and the only thing I can say is polished parts, some black stock parts, a crazy colored frame and secret plastics haha

The first one is kind of smooth, but peaky. The second is kind of long, but very choppy. The 3rd and best in my opinion has chop at the begining, but overall is long and smooth and makes the most power. I think the point of this is to prove to some people who want to argue certain points that they are wrong, they argue with out knowing and snop is tired of just using words... I dont think he's being mean just using proof to back up his statements. Whatever it is you've proven your point, you've got me sold!

Thanks for the offer Im not really looking at buying one yet, I was just really trying to see if I could fix this one so I don't have to buy one later on. Is the clutch cover aluminum or steel... Im pretty sure its aluminum!?

So I recently made a post about finding a billet clutch cover, the reason for this was the original owner put some kind of putty on the bottom part of the clutch cover so I assumed it was cracked. I was inspecting it earlier today and found out it wasn't cracked so I decided to grind off the putty to see why he put it there. this is what I found.... amazingly it wasn't cracked but I want to fix this so I can ceramic coat it but it needs to be able to with stand heat so can I weld this up then grind it down to the original shape or can I use JB weld and just sand it down to the original shape if so will the JB weld with stand 400 F degrees? Help me out guys, thanks :beer:

It's a catch 22 because all those things pretty much go together. You have to get your cylinders ported for a 4mil. and once there ported especially dune or above they can't be reported for the 4mil. so I guess like you said port them now then later on get a 4mil. and new cylinders

You need to do a compression test on the motor the way it is and let us know. Then we will be able to tell you. Oh and whats your elevation that will help too

Cubs are built for topend man so what I would do if i were you is get a 4mil. 421 cub since you do some dragging and you ride open areas and want mid to top

The three main ones I can think of are... if the T.O.R.S. is still on get rid of it because it will cause all kinds of problems. If it's not that check your pick up gap on the fly wheel, but before all that get a new set of plugs just to make sure its not that

As far as your mods I wouldn't worry about upgrading your carbs. If you see my mods I am still running stock carbs because they are kind of under rated and many people will say its so much better with bigger carbs. I'm not denying it is because going to give you more flow, but until you start going with like a 4mil. or heavy dune porting etc. buying brand new carbs isn't worth the small increase. If you can find a good used set or 2 into 1 for a great price it's not really worth it. That's my only my opinion though

I would check your jet size too, because the stock main jets are 210, whenever you do something that alows it to breathe better you have to go up in jet size, with aftermarket pipes, depending on your elevation should be somewhere around 270, if it's stock jets your dangerously lean and need to take care of that before you seize the motor... that could also be why it's not starting because theres a point where you can lack enough fuel to where it won't start

The fatty's are a good all around pipe, but they are more made for low end power... But until you go with a stroker or some other major mod like that they are just fine. Invest in another part of the shee i.e. suspension that couple hundred can get you wider a-arms from Tim at Stellar Machine and Performance

There are in between sizes like this but theyre not as common. 90 over isn't catastrophic but I'd say its on it's last bore, you can go 100 over but I usually make it a rule to get new cylinders at 80 over. You can run the 90's though

www.myspace.com/ride_ak92

How well do the works dual or triple rate shocks with our rezzy's perform? Im looking at tackling my suspension next which will include wider a-arms and I see alot of these for sale on ebay

Bro my stock ported cages out perform vf3's so I'm sure since the blaster's are bigger the hella out perform the vf3's, I think it's because even though the VF's have a great design they don't have a big opening so you can only force so much through them. I could be wrong , but thats my diagnosis... My friend got a VF3 for is YZ 125 and so I took his stock cage and ported it and had him put on the dual stages and he could feel the difference he said so it's no just shee's

Signed it, I like the site man it's coming a long great, can't wait to see it a little later.

Yeah I'm considering upgrading from stock to 4mil... Not for sure but its an idea Im throwing around. Most likely Im going to stick with my setup for a bit and work on the rest of the shee, just wanted to get an idea. Havn't seen you on here in a while Brandon except for last couple days, Hope everything is going well.