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That white looks good man, where'd you get the white... NAPA? I did mine in black a while back and I was going to do the T-5 where it's stamped on the side of the pipes white then my last name on the side of the cylinders in white. Yeah the new pipes will sound thinner though they way so much less than the stock one's because they're made of thinner steal

Man your making me jealous lol. I really want to build like a 10mil. or a 4mil cub or something along those lines, but Im right in the middle of my trail bike project and beings all I do is ride trails and MX tracks, since theres no dunes here and I dont want to do asphalt I won't find much use in it

I could be wrong and if so someone will correct me but I dont think clutch slippage can cause over heating... Or atleast I've never heard of it.

I got my shee for only 500 because it was an after a divorce deal where she wanted it out of the yard... but she couldn't find the key sooooo I just got rid of the switch and connected the 2 wires now my anti-theft is unplugging one of the stator wires... Doesn't start with no sprak lol

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: I remember that video, I was laughing pretty good. There was a rumor that the guy that posted that on banshee tube was one of the the administrators of banshee tube... Dont know if it's true. Back to this atv, wow does it have wings that pop out of the tires too? lol

Yeah I know that haha... I just put it back on right before I made this post, with all new gaskets and seals and I kind of knew the answer so it was a dumb question I was just trying to get away with being lazy... Which does not work when building motors

I know that it's recomended to replace the stock impeller, I have a choice of either a billet impeller or billet water pump cover.... I have all new seals in and I don't really want to take the impeller out because won't that mess up the seal? and I have the stock impeller in there. The hottest temp. I'll ever probably ride in is 70F degrees, but the average will be 50-65F in the summer, and about 20-30F in the winter when I play around. I'd like to buy the billet cover but if the stock impeller is really that bad then I will go with that... Can I get away with the stock impeller with my mods in my sig.

Haha that bike must be cursed or something

Get the new rings and stuff and the shaved head. The shaved head will do just as good as the cool head, the advantages are the removable domes so you can change you comp., the looks and a couple degrees in temp. drop but really not much.

Dang bro, I got one, not on a banshee on a sled. So I went up to my buddies cabin and I was in the middle of fixing a blown head gasket (well waiting for the part) so I was on his Yamaha 600, it was his beater sled, he was on his new at the time '07 Yamaha Phazer, his cabin is on a river, and we were out riding. We headed down river and I saw this 3 foot deep creek bed that ran into the river, well on our way back I was riding on the river bank because there was like 4 feet of powder, I knew that creek bed was coming up but I didnt know when right about that time the machine shot straight down and bounced back up, I heard a huge bang and remember my head hitting the bars then falling off, after a minute I regain my senses to see my buddy standing over me and saying are you ok? He helps me up and I look around to find the sled sitting in the middle of the river so I walk over and say yeah Im good lets go... for some reason the damn thing wouldn't turn so I stop the sled and take a look at the ski's one of them is pointing straight up... so Im thinking ok maybe if I push on the front it will fix it, well it kind of broke off thats the point where I said OH SHIT because it was a 17 mile ride back to the truck and no way to tow the sled it took us all day to get back.

I'm guessing it's the drag race port? In that case you can go a little higher but I'd say with a full drag race port I wouldn't go higher than 32mm but with that drag port I'd go 30-32mm.

There isn't really a difference between the different models, the F series is the regular Im pretty sure and the C series are the shorty's. The number refers to the warranty in years F1= 1 year warranty F3= 3 year warranty and so on. I don't have them on my bike yet, but I have ridden them and they were great, all my MX buddies say it's the only thing they'll run

You could go to 28's but even the stock carbs will do they are 26's. The stock carbs are actually pretty under rated. With all my mods I am going to run stock carbs. A guy I know has a motor that has a dune port on it and built a little more than mine and runs stock carbs and he says they do just fine. So if you can trade yours for some 28's then yeah do it, but if you can sell yours and buy a stock set for cheap and put the extra $$$ to some other part of the shee then do it!

No, its not the rod that makes it a stroker you can put a long rod on there and it will reduce some of the stress against the cylinder walls. But the crank journals are what make it a stroker they are 2mm longer so the rod goes up 2mm and down 2mm farther than stock 2+2=4mm. Hope that helps man

The additive does work and if you run a fuel with a higher specific gravity your ok but with the race fuels its harder to find that higher specific gravity, I just want to make sure I'm covered I may try some of that torco since you run it and your not to far away

36mm carbs are too big, you are going to lose power with those minimal mods, most people on here that run 4mil. or 421 cubs with 4mil.'s are between 33mm and 37 ish. With all of my mods going to a 28 or 30mm carb would give me minimal performance gains and going to a 32 or 33 really wouldn't do much either, so unless your planning on running a 4mil. down size those suckers. Many people don't understand that bigger isn't always better when building a motor you have to find balance and one problem is over carbing a motor. What happens is think of it like this... If you run for a little bit you start breathing hard and you go from breathing through your nose to opening your mouth maybe an inch, you don't open it as wide as it will go, why is this? because then there is some resistance and it allows you to get the needed amount of air at the right time and smoothly, if your mouth is open as wide as it will go you force alot of air in a short amount of time, but your breathing is short not smooth. It could be that loss of power causing the bog

Ok so I chose to run castor 927 in my shee, however there is a problem with this... It says that race fuels or AV gas with a specific gravity of .795 or lower may seperate from the oil at below 35F degrees. I live in Alaska our average temp for the winter is about 20-25F degrees, but we can reach temps as low as -30ish and I won't always be able to park my shee in a heated garage... I know it's not recomended to switch oils because one oil maybe be thicker than the other and cause lube problems, I havn't yet ran it through the motor just lube the crank bearings and cylinder walls with the Castor 927, so can I switch to another oil and be safe if so what is recomended, or what fuel do you recomend because I'll be running race gas unless I drop dome sizes?

I have to diagree. The pro-design billet impeller has a stainless steel shaft that doesn't wear out. A cool head only helps a few degrees, same with the inline, but they help a little. Engine ice will help also, I don't think that everyone on here almost would recomend it if it didn't work. just try a cool head (it's an excuse to add performance) and a billet impeller and run some engine ice

nice man. Im waiting on my water pump cover, it's polished/ chrome also and has the matching flames... I ordered them at seperate times and didn't pay attention during check out and later found out I selected the ups groung shipping for the water pump cover

He's talking about under the nuts, idk if you have to have them it might help from them vibrating loose, but that shouldn't happen anyways. I'd say you should be ok without them but I have them on mine

I think it depends on what's done to it and how full your tank is, dry weight is 385 -386 ish

I think this guy is bi-polar, half the people on here say he's a good seller other half say he's a bad seller and a scam artist. I guess it depends on his mood that day

Damn I'm late I was just going to tell you I had one for you btw what did you pay for yours?

Everyones opinion is going to be a little different and it's going to depend on your type of riding, I'd say the most suggested mods that I see everyone make are pipes I suggest Toomey T-5's, Porting, a cool head, adjustable timing plate at +4, some sort of reed mods either V-Force 3's or what I suggest is porting the stock reed cages and putting on boyesen dual stage reeds it is alot cheaper that VF3's and makes more power, some pod filters or remove air box lid, completely remove T.O.R.S.

Yeah suppose to be -35 tonight, wtf is up with this... Hasn't been this way in a while, maybe were slowly getting our winters back, havn't got all the snow yet but that will come.