fast shee

Link is not working for me. Are the r6 shocks really stiff? If so then I will be back where I am now with the yfz shocks chained down. Just thinking with functioning front shocks (instead of stiff or chained down ), it would help with transfer and handling in the corners in stead of riding a hay wagon! Also thought of a ft lowering kit with sway bay to use up ft but dont know if the shocks would still be too long.

Any pics of the bike with the r6 shocks on and can you still use the sway bar with them? Does it matter what year R6 and could you use a R1 shock also?

Have +2 a arms up ft with yfz shocks chained down for the last year now but am going to upgrade to a sway bar and new shocks up ft. What length are you guys running or from what machine are you using. Have been thinking of getting some elkas but with x mas coming have to cut back on costs. Any ideas from experience? The ft end chained down is far too rough in the corners with no suspension action! Anyone try fox floats up ft?

Since i have owned this bike i always have a hard time to shift from 2nd to 3rd but only when racing and under full load. I have installed a shift star and installed the shifter mod spring and linkage. When just cruising on the track it is fine but when the flag drops and we are at a dead stop it just does not want to shift to 3rd. I will have to clutch and try to shift 3 or 4 times before shifting. Anyone come across this problem. Not sure if i might be looking at a shift drum or gears.

Thanks for the pics guys! I think I have made up my mind and am going to do it. I think the blue with chrome will look good. If anyone else has pics I would love to see them!

looking to give the bike a facelift this winter.Thinking of candy blue frame with white plastics but hoping to see pics if anybody has this combo already to make my decision.

I think it would be worth pressurizing your engine and soap it to see if you have any air leaks. I had a problem when I assembled my engine and found the crank seal leaking after being unable to jet it. If you are sucking air you will have to give it lots of fuel like you are already. The guys here have all the experience and knowledge of this stuff. I found that jetting this setup, almost everyone is running the same specs. I will try to lean out mine in the spring time to 150 main, and 45 pilot but will set it up soon for the ice racing this winter.

hey 3sgte. Where you from. I think i read one of your posts for jetting with your new jugs. I run a similar setup mid-top porting, t5s, vf3s, 4 mil, 17cc domes 35 pwk strykers and only run 155 main, cel needle middle clip 48 pilot. Still slightly rich but i am ok with that. Who did your porting? Mine was s.s through slash n dirt in quebec.

Did a little trouble shooting and found the crank seal leaking after pressurizing the engine.

Just a recap from last time. Took it out today and did a plug chop with 152 mains and found left side a bit lean but rt side chocolate brown. Switched left to 158 and rt to 155 and another plug chop. Results were good on both sides dark brown. Only thing i noticed was at higher rpm no load easing off throttle could hear pinging from the engine. Suspect will have to raise the clip on the needle 1 position. Not sure if it is because im running a 4 mil and 4 degrees timing and might have to retard to 2 degrees. Anybody else running different jetting from left to right?

A cool head, bliiet impellar and maxima cool aide keeps my engine running cool even with a stock rad. I ran regular antifreeze 50-50 last year and it ran hot. Switching coolant dropped the temps alot.

Have not done any plug chops yet. I run straight 112 pro race fuel ( unleaded ). Hoping to go and try this weekend. I had the cylinders bored to 66.5 and the machine shop set it up with .004" clearance on pro x cast pistons and she blew the intake skirt off the left cylinder and the rt was cracked between the boost ports. Was running 148 on both carbs. When I tore it down, the rt plug was beige in colour. Pretty fine line if you ask me but it when like a scared rabbit! I had them rebore with wisecos this time at .002" so we will see how it is now.

Finished building a 4 mil ported stock cylinder engine for tt. Engine always ran hot last year with p.d. cool head and billet impellar with stock rad. Put in maxima COOL AIDE coolant and cannot believe the cooling difference. Thought i was needing a pwr rad for extra volume but not anymore. One of the best mods for the cheapest price.

What altitude are you jetting at. I have new setup that is almost same as yours and slowly getting it dialed with the 35 strykers. With the t5s, stock cylinder with agressive mid -top porting, 17cc big bore dome, 4 deg timing, vf3s, prodesign manifold with boost bottle and reed spacers, 4 mil 115 rod and 68.75 blaster pistons with boost port mod. Im at 800 ft and have cel needle 3rd clip. 48 pilot ( too rich ) 2 turns out, 155 main. Runs strong but still too rich. Thinking 150-152. Still in breakin period. Your numbers seem very low but first time with strykers nervous going so low.