GrMeyer

Do you still have the stock needles? Do you have 27.5 pilots If it was me. I would put the 27.5 pilots in. Pull the power lid. Put the 280s back in. Turn the air screw 1-1/2 turns from fully closed. Make sure the carbs are really clean. But I also think that your mains might be running lean with the temps being cold and all. But remember when Jetting. Set the main first. Then the needle, then the pilot-air screw.

Got to thinking. If it is hard to start but starts easy when warm... I would check the compression. Also, if you dont have an air meter gauge. Then the carbs aren't synced right. I have tried the eye watching and then tried the carb window and they are were all off when I put the air meter gauge to them. I have also found that having them synced with the air gauge that i have gained my bottom end back. So when people say that a banshee doesnt have bottom end. It is BS. Then they dont have it tuned right. Hope this helps. But really look into the compression. If one side is off more then 5psi more then the other. It will be time for a rebuild-new rings. Depending on how hard I ride a year. Just a light hone and new rings will bring up the compression. But you have to make sure you check with the manufacturer guide for ring gap.

Tens good. I just like camping at 15 because the small dunes are right at the back door. And you dont have to deal with all the dust from the small numbered washes.

Timing shouldnt change the jetting. But I would check the jetting anyways to be on the safe side.

I would start with 320's and you will prob be in the 330's depending on how cold it is. Keep the pilot and just turning it in about 1/2 a turn and go from there.

Do u have the tors kit? If not, it will help out with jetting and fine tuning ur carbs in half the time. As for a starting point. I would say try around 340's 27.5pilots but might have to move up to 30s. Start the needle in the middle. 1-1/2 turns from seat. Make sure u try to sync the carbs as best as u can out the bottom end will be shitty! This is the best site I have found on jetting carbs. http://www.dfn.com/b...ren/jetfaq.html

For people that dont have a clue what im talking about. Here is a pic

+1.... Took the works right out of my mouth.

From what I have read. They are a great low end pipe. I have not had a chance to ride them. But if you have them and your getting ready to sell a banshee that has Fattys. I would test run both. See what one you like better and so on. Just remember to rejet. But I would have to say that I love my Fattys for being an all around pipe. From trail riding-dune riding. Havent had anything bad to say about the Fattys. But kind of wish I had time to try some more pipes. But for an engine builder to respond. They would like to know what kind of riding you will be doing with the bike. And what has been done to the banshee. And if you are planning on doing any mods later one. They can send you in the right direction on which pipe to chose from. Best of luck!

+1

30 mains are way to big unless you got some kick ass parting going on.

Does anyone know where to get a stock shock piston wear band?

the only thing I see wrong with using stock shocks on extended arms is that being soft and all. Can turn for the worse. I could see if you only trial ride. But if you end up taking a corner to hard. you will get role. The stock shocks wont last much longer due to having to work twice as hard to keep up and will heat up fast causing major fade. So be safe. And I woundnt think about getting close to a jump or whoops, unless you like new wrists and maybe a endo.

Do you have the TORS kit? Are the carbs Synced? What pilots do you have? Whats the Elevation? Whats the Temp? When was the last time the plugs were changed? I have had one that cracked and would only get spark every now and then. Is the choke tube connected? Read up on this site as well for help with jetting. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

When was the last time you set the float height?

This will help you on jetting http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Got it right off the front of their website Use a 6mm wrench to unscrew this jet, and replace it with the #280 jet found in your Toomey Racing Jet Kit. NOTE: The #270 Jet is for operation higher than 2500 feet in altitude. The 280 is the sea level setting up through 2500 feet. On particularly cold days or at very low altitudes (winter in Glamis, CA) you may need a #290 or #300. Conversly, at high alitudes, above 3000 feet you may need a 260, 250 or even less depending on how high you are and how hot it is. We haven't tested at these altitudes, so any recomendation from me would just be a guess. You would do far better to test it yourself when you are there.

T5 loves the 27.5 I would start the air screw 1-1/2 turns out from seat. Mains should be fine and I would put the needles in the middle for starting. Also make sure the carbs are as close as you can get them to be synced. DONT use starting fluid. If you have to us some sort of starter, us the gas your trying to run in it if it is fresh! I just use an old spray bottle. Make sure you have fresh plugs as well and that you are getting spark. I just have someone kick my bike over while I hold the end of the plug to a good ground point on the motor and watch for spark. If you dont have anyone. Just take out both plugs and it should be easy enough to turn over by hand.

Yeah because it is a heavier bike. But if you put the yfz shock on the banshee. You will have to grind back some of the top shock mount it will clear the rez on the shock. Not much of anything to worry about. If you dont have aftermarket arms. then you will have to punch out the bottom arm where the shock mounts to. I just cut a square so the bottom of the shock cleared the arm. I didnt want to take any metal off the shock. But the best bet is to add aftermarket arms to the bike with yfz shocks. Or the valving and spring weight will be a hard ride unless your jumping. But I have had yfz shocks and after market arms on my bike going on three years with nothing but greatness. The only thing I have found out for the riding I do is that I want to convert them to dual rate springs and revalve then for the dunes. I love them over works shocks anyday. And you will pay out of your ace to get the adj ments that the yfz shock offer over the works shocks.

Just have it rebuild for your weight and arm length. You will have to stop up to a heavier weight spring. As for valving you might beable to get away with it at first tell you figure out what your wanting out of it. I would really look into getting the shock rebuilt as well with new oil and what not. Because the added swing arm will put alot of presser on the shock and make the valving work a little more harder. You might be able to get way with a heavier weight of oil to help with dampening.

Great site to read up on for help with jetting the banshee http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

What jets are in the bike now? The tors kit is a great mod to help with jetting. Also read up on this site to help understand jetting banshee better http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Also I would just buy a jet kit. All you need for jetts is around 240-330ish for stock bikes with pipes. You can get a lot of jet on ebay for around $30ish. There is a guy on here that has the name of the guy that is selling them.

What jets are in the bike now? here is a great site to read up on for jetting http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

You got lucky!!!

How did you sync the carbs? by eye? I have learned that it will get you close, but it is still off. The best way to sync carbs is with the air meter gauge. Around $35. So I would invest in that. Because when you pull the carb tops to change the needle height that they can come un synced with the tors. So the best bet is to get the TORS kit if you dont have one because it will save you time. Also read up on this site http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html