GrMeyer

It is always easier to go rich then lean. I will always jet up before I jet down. Unless I know im rich and need to jet down. IE Temp has gone up 30deg sense last ride. Depending on your temp. I would start with the 290 but that should be rich. Remember that Changing the mains will mess with the needle. But not much to really dick with unless your trying to get every little last penny out of it. The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot (slow) jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle.

You will have to remember this: The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot (slow) jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle. Also to only jet on a warmed up motor. You will have to work from the WOT and down. If you try to set your needle and then change the mains then the needle will be off. If your like me. I just leave my needle where it feels good all around and just jet the mains and work on my air screws. But then again im only jetting up or down 1 jet because of temps. Just try to do some WOT pulls and see if it boggs (rich) or revs out with no power (lean). If your running the bike with the fuel off and it runs better. Sounds like its rich. But then again you have another prob. Did you buy the carbs new or used? Did you set the float height?

Aww shit man. I grew up in Casper. Let me see if I can put some light on this for you. Umm depending on how much the lid is CUT. This should get you started and should be on the rich side of things. Main - 280 Needle - Middle (stock) Pilots - 25 (stock) Airscrew - 1-1/2 turns from fully seated. (just tell the screw stops when turning them in. Dont crank on it!!!!) Re sync the carbs or you will have crappy bottom end Read up on this site as well http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html If you have the tors, there is a black box under the tank on the left hand side. Unplug that if you still have them. And unplug all the tors wiring! Tors is very very crappy!!! Go and pick up or get some from a site sponsor's are Main JETS. I had started my collection from 240-350 mains. But that is because I have ported jugs as well. I would look at getting from 250-310 for main jets. That way you will have all the room in the world to jet when you get snow and when you ride in the summer. And start mod'n the bike later down the road. It is very hard to keep from buying parts for banshee. Just pipes and opening up the air box will really wake up the bike along with +4 timing.

well there is smoke and then there is SMOKE. If you get what im saying. My bike SMOKES like a mother at start up when it is cold. Then when it is warmed up it will just smoke a little. What is your oil mix ratio? If your having alot of build up of oil then your bike is not getting hot enough to burn off the oil or your just running it to rich on oil or just a shitty premix oil. Read up on this site to help you understand the jetting of the banshee. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Remember that the weather is warming up so the jetting will start to become richer. If your bog'n down low then try bringing up the needle clip one. You also didnt say if you had a lid on or not. But im going to guess that your dont have a lid on. 2-1/2 turns out with stock pilots and aftermarket pipes seems kind of lean. Turn them in about a half and turn and see if it gets better or worse. If worse then back them back out. But I think your bog is from being lean on the pilot/air fuel screws. Also remember to make your adj's on a warmed up bike. Hope this helps you.

I love foam for the dirt and a type of K&N for the sand.

Deff lean if your not running a lid and are running 260 mains!!!! Dont run it until you can get larger mains put in. I would stat with 300's to be on the safe side. And that will be on the RICH side and will prob end up running around 280 if you end up with 100 deg. Watch your Eng temp so you dont blow a top end. I stop riding my banshee when it hits 90deg. If your going to be running your bike in that hot of temps, I would prob look at changing your rad fluid to about 75% water and 25% anti. Water dissipates the heat. Not the antifreeze.

They just didnt want you to use the full Get up and GO. My guess is someone didnt know what they hell they were doing. Make sure you check the o-rings for being squished or nicks or chunks take out. If so buy a new o-ring kit or you will have sealing probs. Also never shoot rubber with Carb clean or break cleaner if poss. It causes stretching. If you need to clean the o-rings, use WD-40. I work with O-rings everyday. Also if you pull an O-ring and you get that black shit on your fingers or hands. That means that the o-ring is starting to fail.

DO NOT hit it on with an impact!!! If you over tq it, you will bend the washer behind it and it will cause you probs in the long run. Trust me I did the same thing. What it does is bend that washer and will keep the clutch engaged and will burn up the fibers. Signs of over tq'ed is hard to find "N" while sitting still. Clutch catching in gear while clutch is pulled in.

Same for riding in the dunes. It make sit one hell of a lot easier to stay in the rpms. Just try to back off the throttle so its not a full load when you shift. But mostly try to use the clutch when I can!!! That is if im not riding like I just stole it and running from the cops again. Damn Glamis Sheriffs. Good thing the Hello Bird was not out flying that day.

It also makes it a hole lot easier to change jets. Because then you dont have to reset the carbs back into two boots... Just run outwears on them and you will be fine. You need every amount of air you can get on the mx track to pull on people. Just make sure your jetted right so you dont run lean and melt a piston down. Just remember it is easier to jet up then it is to jet down and melt a piston.

+1 mill on the locktite. I had a bottom heim of my once was full flights come off on a ride. Not fun!!!! Im not a fan of the heims. They do wear out fast. If you can just shop around for specials. I found a set of burgard arms for my banshee and my dads raptor for less then 200 shipped to my door for each kit. They are great arms. Life time and are made of 4130 chromoly with life time warranty on them. Got a set of new alba comp arms from them for 250 shipped. All those kits are were for new +2+1's arms. So just dont jump on the wagon because of the price. It does pay to shop around.

I say buy some arms made for the banshee and add the yfz shocks to them. That is what I have done and has worked out great. Just need to change them into dual rate spings and revalve them for the dunes. just my .02

You have to watch on how you order your shocks. If you order new ones. If you trail ride then you will want to tell them how bad of trail and what not. For the dune ed. They are set up totally different then trail shocks. They have a stiffer first rate spring out of the three. For the trail it is more along the lines of a keeper spring. It keeps the springs from chattering when the arms are fully extended. The valving is totally different as well. The high speed and low speed are set up a little harder then trail riding due to all the sand chop and G-outs in the sand. If you can save up for the adj rez it is well worth it. The Rez add extra oil which aid in better cool and longer shock life. One thing you need to watch out on used shocks is they can be bent. Most likely will need a rebuild. And shaft guards are great if your one to be riding behind people. I have a buddy that likes to ride on peoples asses and he is shocks started leaking. So we rebuilt/ changed oil and seal head and couldnt get them to seal. Found out after taking a harder look at the shafts that they got pitted from all the rocks and the oil would seep right by the seal head. So all in all. Buy used shocks can work great for you if you know the history. If not, the rebuild cost can hurt you in the long run. I have done alot of R&R with Elka and their shocks. I have them on 5 quads and a rhino. They are great people to work with and will stand behind their product. I have had really bad things to say about Works. They do offer great after market shocks but dont let them rebuild your stock shocks. Their valving is very very different then reg shim stack valving. They do alot of guess work. But they are still better then stock!!! Hands down. Just dont like them. As loco said. Stick with shocks made for the banshee. other shocks will have different stroke lengths. Which can turn into more wear and tear on your ball joints for ext to much.

See how they ride. If you can see if they have a Serial Number on them and contact Works and see how they are set up. IE. Weight of rider and what they are valved for. If there is any kind of oil leak. You will need to have them rebuild. But try to see if they are to soft or hard ect. But spring rates can play a big big role shocks if they are to stiff. So try to find the history on them before anything.

remember if you change your premix you will change your jetting. You will be running less oil so you will be getting more gas. Do a plug chop if you can to check jetting. I just jet by feel. I jet up tell it bogs up top and jet down tell it starts to scream up top. I like to jet rich for Glamis because how cold and hot it can go in just a few hours. If your bog'n down low then I would check your carb sync before you start messing with the air screws. If they are set then start with the air screws and do 1/4 turns and work from there. The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot (slow) jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The slide valve is most effective between 1/8 through 1/2 throttle The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle. Read up on this site http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Are you running the lid? Starting point With lid 270 Without 290 Depending on temp. If your in the 50's then bump up the mains one from what I said. Remember this is a starting point. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Read up on this site. FYI throttle The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle.

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html read up on that site. Remember when jetting. Moving the mains around will mess with the needle setting as well. I will always go up on jetting before I go down. If it gets worse then you know you need to go down. If it gets better then you know you need to work up. But if your saying its flat then im going to say your rich. If it Rev's with no power then your lean. Just set the main first then work on setting the needle height.

Umm are you running a lid? read up on this site... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html If you running the lid then I would start with around 270ish without the lid I would start with 300ish Those will put you on the rich side if you running in 90deg temps.

More air ='s more power. You will have more power all of the rpm range. Its all I run but then again I dont run in water or mud.

My vote is for the revalving of the stock shock. If you wait to find a used one. You might be back in the same park sending it in for a revalve to your weight or sending it in for a rebuild because its leaking. So all in all you will prob end up saving money in the long run just having the rear done. And there are alot of after market shock builders out there. The Banshee is one of the longest if not the longest quad on production. But for a good after market rear shock, your looking into almost $800 plus. But the stock shock is great for what it is with some love. Just contact an after market shock place and see what they can do for you. I know GT Thunder has great reviews and so does Race tech.

Its not worth it. The shocks are worth it for someone thats short on cash. But your better off just getting some arms that are made for the Banshee.

When you say that your front shocks are fully adj. Do they have rebound as well? Some shocks when you dick with rebound they will mess with the compression speed. When you start setting up and tuning in your shocks you need to remember that some shocks can take up to 30mins to warm up. Also you will want to bottom out at least once to make sure your using full range of the shocks. I start with my compression and rebound in the middle for starting points. If the rebound is to fast the quad will want to buck. If it is to slow, then the quad will case its self. IE bottoming out. If the compression is to soft. You will bottom out on little stuff and will have alot of body role. If it is to hard. Well you will know. It will be stiff and feel like there is no give. Make sure you set the tire psi to what ever you ride at before tuning. Having to much will seem like its stiff. And low will cause the squishy feeling. I tune my bikes depending on who will be riding them and their riding style and what grounds we will be riding on. If im just riding the dune I keep them kind of stiff because I like to jump and do some big ass bowls with the G outs. If im riding dirt trials I soften them up for a nice soft ride. But once you get a feel for tuning your shocks in. It will be easy for you to tell what is going on. Just take your time and make small adj. Unless they are way out of then I start turning them 2-3 at a time. So in time you will get the quad to float over everything. I had bad luck with works. So keep a feel on your shocks rez's If they are getting hot, then you need to call them ASAP and have them put in some oil with a higher viscosity. I know Elka sends their stuff out with what they call 2.5wt. I know just run redline light weight 5wt.

Well did they set your shocks up to have Sag?

Are u using a compression tester with a check valve in the adapter? If not,then u will have low comp readings.

The air screw will only effect the 0-1/4 throttle. It will be hard to tune in if the carbs aren't synced. If ur still having probs try leaning out the needles one clip. Also make sure that the slides are cleaned and free of any oil/dirt. Or the slides will want to stick once in some times.