sangheraent

I have a 2 puck style stabilizers (GPR) and 2 stick stabilzers pucks on a walsh 310r and rm250 dirt bike. stick on a 250r practice bike and my banshee. one i got on ebay for $5 the other a streamline I ride a lot I race both quad and dirt bike the biggest difference is that you can adjust a puck while your riding. Can't really tell the $400 difference. Everyone I race with has a stick stabilizers.

guys on the 250r forums just got there cast 38mm carbs in recently.

sweet that worked. I am officially minkia free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is it possible to block motor city menkia's ads from showing up in my ebay searchs. I'm just tired of that garbage filling my searchs up.

lost a c-clip after 4 years of running wrist pin destroyed the cylinder wall

I Agree. I'm having them both sleeved this is the kind of shit that leaves me at camp while my buddies ride. and Actually because of the damn currency exchange I save $180 by sleeving both cylinders rather then buying new ones and having them ported.

Im pretty sure I need a left but I haven't seen any single cylinders on sale I'v been looking.

Is it going to be reliable with a difference like that? I'm no expert but I feel like one cylinder will make a hair more power then the other carb syncing will be tougher but thats no big deal but wouldn't the pressure on the crank be uneven? like one side is trying to turn a hair faster then the other causing pressure on the crank? can't I take the stock jug to like 66? so I would have 65.50 65.75 and then 66? or am I wrong on that one?

so you mean run 64 on one side and 65.50 on the other side?

Ok so I am weighing my options on how to get my banshee back up and running one cylinder is perfectly fine with a couple bores left on it and the other is toast. I was thinking of sleeving the one side and boring it out to the next size up on the other cylinder. So even though I sleeved it I would still be at 65.50. I know the sleeve has to be port matched and all that stuff but is this a viable option? I really just want to save the cylinders they are HJR ported 4mill cylinders that hauled pure ass. I know I can bore the sleeved cylinder up to like 67mm so when my other cylinder gets to its max I can always consider sleeving it so I can keep going. My history with top ends is that they usually go years this top end went 4 years with $2 premix and still had more life if it didn't destruct. So if you think 2 bores won't last me long that's minimum like 8 years and this top end is going on my wifes bike so that will be like 16 years. I ride my dirt bike every weekend to hell and back and it has 3 years on the top end with 180 compression.

why does it no longer say on the left when people joined? I like to see that when I look through classifieds how long someone has been a member here, This forum is funny that people will join and in 3-4 days they will have 40-50 posts.

Apparently anything under 10mill is beneath him. But hes not too good to run stock pipes.

Carbs and Reeds sold. 19cc and 21cc domes still available. $65 shipped for each set.

Selling some stuff VF3 cage and reeds in good shape $130 21cc 4mill domes $80 19cc 4mill domes $80 both in good shape. 34pjs with pods $150 good shape 1 filter slightly burned

My pingle has a reserve valve, looks like every other pingle except the penis thing that goes up is longer and the pingle has a res in the middle. wouldn't trade the res valve for the world. my bike goes from bogging to off in 10 seconds so without that res valve I would be stranded.

I was thinking more like $50.

mad props!!! I raced a couple mx races at 265, but I was slow and shitty. My bike bottomed out everywhere.

i sent you a text also. wtf?

you race at 340? pics!!!!!!!!!!!

would you take $200 shipped?

wtf stock banshee with 26s I bet the thing barely moves and when it does he is burning a shit load of clutch