sangheraent

I have done countless hours of ebay browsing and web surfing but I have never seen one.

i did it on my 250r when you posted it. my experience was that silicone is NOT $2 more like $3.50. and I found the best way to do it after screwing up several times was to stick the gun in one end as hard as you can and then pump until the other end shows silicone hold it shut and keep pumping until its full to the max. I found that it made a big difference with vibration and the bike felt smoother because of it.

too bad Id love to have seen lesner dos santos live here. But now that its carwin im still interested but I think carwin will win and then win another fight and then fight lesner for the title again.

where in BC are you from?

your just jelous

you can never be too rich. unless your 90years old have no children and your penis doesnt work.

just wanted to see if anyone will be out at winchester bay june 7-11. We have a group of 15 riders going from canada. We are staying in the townhouses on the side of the road so If your in the area stop by.

my personal opinion. is no. but some of the guys on here will argue to death that it is. the only problem I ever had with mine for 2 years couple dune drips and a ton of farm riding was that the floats were finicky.

i ran them for 2 years. Good power delivery. Biggest problem I had was the floats were very picky. The carbs either dried out or overflowed all the time.

hahah its funny because iv been helping you for a bit here and now I just had the exact same problem in my bike. Sometimes the float height is exactly right but somebody has messed with the little flap on the floats. Check to see if they have the same angle on both carbs. Also move the floats up and down on both carbs and see how much the little plug thing moves. try to blow air through where the gas goes in with the floats removed and see if air flows freely and equal on both carbs. if theres any difference you just need to make them the same.

ok thats a little harsh. they work decently and they wear well. no they are much better then nobbies. 3 of my friends have been running sand gekos for about 4 years and they both have no problems with them. for the price they are decent. I would suggest saving up for some better paddles. but if your deciding between no paddles and paddles the gekos will get you where you need to go. in that price range iv seen a lot of people run AMS sand sharks the straight paddles and have good luck with those. Edit: I also run sand gekos on my 250r. but I got them for free.

run down to the hardware store and pick up some clear hose for a buck or what not and try the carbs. Iv had my floats run dry and usually the bike will idle just fine as soon as I gave the gas the one cylinder shut down.

i sold some plastics about a year or so ago. I just shrink wrapped them like crazy and shipping was about $35. I wrapped each piece individually then I wrapped them all in 1 piece, my fronts were cut so they fit together very nicely.

did you try to swap the carbs from side to side? if you swap the carbs and it is still doing it The problem is mostly likely the reeds. inspect to make sure there isnt anything stuck in them or there not installed incorrectly.

if you swapped the coil and plugs around and it was the same cylinder then you know its not electrical. my banshee did this to me and it turned out the glass on the right side carb had popped out and was just leaning out like crasy. look for an air leak. also check your compression. check the obvious first, is there anything wrong with the intake boots, exhaust seal?, airbox boots? if those all clear the inspection then go into the carb and make sure its 100%.

did you try swapping the plugs? sounds like a fouled plug to me.

the test is brutal if you don't live in Oregon. I challenged the course the first time and I'm from Canada don't really know all the local laws. I failed by 1 question got all the way to question 50 and got it wrong. I not an idiot either I'm a 4th year university student. the course was boring as shit took an hour and 45mins to finish and everything repeated itself over and over. It should have been 4 chapters but it was 13.

thanks for the information guys. Im not going to mod my banshee, Its a 4mill stroker that I built for general riding at the dunes I don't want to drag it I like a smooth buttery ride with midrange power. my plan is to buy a run down stock banshee strip it and build a drag machine. I just want to know who you guys race and are there classes? because if i build a 10mill cub do I have to race against a guy with an 18mill dm? are there cc limits? Id like to do some competitive stuff but I don't want to go all the way into rigid bikes.

just keep it on the back wheels shawn!

Well everyone I am currently a dune/mx quad rider. I would like to in the future get into a little bit of drag racing nothing super serious but Id like to build a stock chassis purpose built drag bike. However I see so many different setups and it is difficult to get information as to what the classes are and what restrictions there are to each class. also where can someone do this drag racing. I am in Canada an hour and a half north of seattle. I dont want to be driving 2 days to ride 300ft a few times so something like northern California Idaho Utah Oregon would be the best bet. id like to build a stock chassis bike with a cub motor in it.

you guys are vultures. but then again id love some parts off that blue one.

love the idea! however spell check i available when you use a different browser. I use Firefox and it spell checks everything I type.

boost bottle.

yea I am planning on mixing the fuel every time before I pump it. I have a clear gas jug and when I initially pour the oil in i can see it pooling on the bottom, but after a good mix it the color seems constant for a long time.