sangheraent

that's roughly where I was thinking. the longer swingarms around here are the only way to go if you want to get up the big tree shots. I see plenty of people with +4, +6 on bolt on motors. I run a stock swingarm now with 6psi in the rear tires, jacked up rear shock, and lowered front shocks to keep it from wheeling and I could still put the bike on its ass on an easy tree shot.

well I am redoing my bike and wanted to get an idea of how much paddle I am going to need for my bike. I have a 4mill stroker my bike is around 65hp roughly I have a +8 swingarm. I ride Oregon 99% of the time. I'm not a drag racer even though I run a big swinger. I currently run 21x12x8 8 paddle haulers with the stock swinger. Had a really rough time getting up tree shots with that combo bike would wheely like mad. but with an +8 rear end I think my bike is going to be under paddled. I was thinking 21 inch 10 paddles extremes. I don't really want to go to a 22inch rear I don't like the look of the massive rear tire. I rode with a guy that had a stock stoke banshee with a +8 he was running a 20inch 10 paddle hauler and it seemed perfect for him. What do you guys think? will my current 8 paddle set up do the job? does anyone run this set up now?

i found the easyest place to buy pwk parts is cascade innovations. good prices in my opinion too.

I need a +2 or +4 or +3 but I think +3 is rare but we. anyway my stock swingarm got stuck on my frame and well long story short she is scrap metal now. so I need a new swingarm. I am not a rich man so Im looking for a decent deal. let me know . I don't need the carrier.

i just thought Id post this so it came up in google so save people some headaches!

oh dont get me wrong they look like pwk 28s. but I think they are built with cheap parts like the oko carbs. the biggest tip off to me is the idle screw, pwks dont have that particular screw they have a bigger one.

I was looking at ebay and saw what looks exactly like oko carbs but they say keihin on them? I run 30mm okos and I have real pwks on all my other bikes and I know for a fact these look 100xs more like my okos then the pwks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Keihin-PWK-28-racing-carburetor-repair-kit-main-jet-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b610cf1fQQitemZ140493508383QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

what type of tires are they? it makes a huge difference. I ran some 20/10/10 itp sand stars and i was getting serious tire spin at 4psi with stock gearing. I run 21 8 paddle haulers at 5psi with stock gearing now and it feels really good I want to try a 13 tooth up front but I run a 4 mill stroker so a smaller sprocket on a stock bike would probably be better.

I took my pipes from rusty as hell to nice and shiny. I first dipped the pipes in a bucket full of clr/water for 24hrs. then I cleaned them with an sos pad. then I took the pipe to a polishing wheel where I got it shiny as a mother. once I installed the pipe I had touched them 50 times with my dirty as hands. So I did my final step by using some blue magic with a soft wheel on a drill. and once I did that I was able to clean the food out of my teeth.

why don't we work towards convincing a member to do a backflip. like offer up a group reward? id put down $10 for the cause.

they fit in the stock boots, run strong all kiehin jets and what not. pretty much what was said up top.

I got some 30mm oko I can sell you for a really good deal.

i got my 250r trans micropolished and cryoed from WCR. it took a little while because shipping to their place is slow i think there in some rural area. but my trans looked great and iv put maybe 3 hours to it of super hard riding and it feels good. I sent my trans in because I broke 3rd gear in half.

there is a pipe repair guy out of oregon that fixes all dings and dents for like $60 a pipe. thought id go the extra mile and get the link for you http://www.piperepair.com/

my pipes on my bike were super rusted when I got them. I dipped them in clr/water for a day and most of the rust came off. The problem I had was that the pipes were pitted. so I polished them back up and the parts that have no pitting look mint but some parts looks dark and pitted. the clr works great though. It all depends on how deep the rust has gotten. If its deep in there then the pipes will never look like new but will still work just fine. you could always dunk it in clr clean them off and paint them.

I sent him a message told him to make some more. there a solid product good for us banshee owners.

bought some ebay footpegs a month ago finally installed them today and damn they are nice. they feel super strong and look awsome. I cant believe how tacky they are I honestly believe for the price these sell for are very good for the banshee community the rest of the footpegs are either too expensive or super light. these pegs are about 1/4 inch wider then stock I will get pictures tomorrow. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-NEW-drag-BILLET-foot-peg-footpegs-custom-chrome-/220709881072?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33635584f0 I have no connection to this guy or this product, I don't benefit from this the only reason I created this review is because i believe people can save a lot of money over the ims pegs and get rid of the garbage stock pegs.

did you test your stator with a multimeter? iv had like 4 stators go bad. it will still run with a shitty cdi but itll take like 100kicks and it will run like shit. I also heard it will run wierd when your coil is shot. i also had a brand new rm stator only give me spark 1 out of 4 kicks. my advice buy a multimeter 10 bucks and it will tell you everything. if there is an electrical problem.....Iv had it. lights blown out bad cdi bad coil bad stator bad brand new stator(now this one is a bitch) on off switch rusted key switch faulty. (i even sold the banshee once and it came back seriously i still have it)

wow 460? thats a monster of a motor. I drive a ram 1500 360ci to university right now and all I can say is underground parking is off limits to me. as well as parallel parking. and the normal parking spots I cant open my door if there is another truck beside me. Thats just the parking. Don't even ask about gas, my dads company pays for my gas but if he didn't I'd have to drop out. From a college students opinion keep the banshee, when your in exam time haven't showered in 3 days and havent left the fuckin library for 16 hours a nice ride on the banshee does wonders. plus surfing bansheehq during class makes time go by fast.

iv been riding the dunes a few times a year for the last 3-4 years and I can honestly say any paddle will do. Of course the better paddles will be a better ride. but I have friends who have been riding sand gekos for years and have no problems. i have friends with sand gekos and friends with skat track extremes and everything in between we all ride in a pack. nobody gets stuck more then anyone else and everyone can make it up the same hills. my opinion is who gives a rats ass if your $34.99 paddles will move you around go for it.

sand it down and polish it. It ll never look perfect but it will look alot better. itll just smooth out the edgees of the cut and make the inner part shiny to.

if it starts with starting fuel the problem is more then likly in your carbs if its been sitting for awhile check your floats. if it just happend out of nowhere check your fuel lines see if there is fuel going down. well if it was running before you took the head off. maybe your orings got cought and you got water in your system.

I can agree with the above comment. I was running stock carbs on my 4mill until i bought these and notice a slight bit more top end and maybe a 1-2% increase throughout at most but that could also be just me thinking i have more power. I guess I was one of the lucky ones and gained some power but at what cost? constantly having to play with the carbs to get them to work right? you tell me how the fuck you can adjust a carb bowl to spec and then it starts pouring out gas randomly a month later? the parts arnt the same as a pwk I know this because I lost my idle screw once and nobody had it. I hate when I go into my shop and theres a puddle of fuel under my bike. even after spending a lot of time adjusting my bowls. The only real benifit I felt from these carbs is the ease of jetting them. alot easier then the stock ones. I can tell my bowls are running dry when Im giving it full throttle and its running fine up until about 10 seconds or so and it just bogs or Im climbing a hill and 3/4 of the way up it runs out of gas. all i can say is in the right situation it can be one of the scaryest things to happen. my opinion if they work for you then great. you will probably notice a little bit of diffrence. I just hate playing with them.