mopar1rules

nice link. kelsey says what i've been saying to members on here for a long time already.

we can't tell you for sure, cause none of us here know the duration figures of your "lightly ported cylinders". if we knew the durations then sure.

1mm (.040") thick sounds like moose racing base gaskets.

I have a stock timing plate that I modded for +4 timing, that I will sell if you are interested.

which base gaskets did you use?

i'm up by manitowoc. i never even seen your reply. oops.

66.5mm is the largest bore you can go on stock cylinders. You might need to alter/increase your jet size. Look at plug color and piston wash to determine that.

i would like to know where there is a dyno as well

Interested in the billet gas cap and dynatek ignition. Can I get a pic of the gas cap and ignition? Is that the programmable unit?

I talked to that guy about buying your domes and he said that he just went and bought a new head w/new domes.

I have a 2 good used stock heads. One is cut .030" and the other is not cut. $30 for the shaved one and $15 for the un-cut one. Just shoot me a pm if you want any of them.

I got a guy that might take the domes. I'll be seeing him today and I'll get back to you.

Can I get pics of the mod head? What color is it?

I'm rebuilding a banshee for a guy here and he will need that size piston. Let me see what he wants me to do. I'll get back to you.

I also laugh when people think race gas causes deto, makes more hp on pump gas compression ratios, and that it causes harm to engines. It does NONE of the above. There should be a sticky as well on race gas, so these questions hopefully don't keep popping up.

I just laugh and shake my head, whenever someone says "if you don't have 160-170psi or so, you don't need race gas." DO NOT use compression gauge readings, dictate what octane fuel to run. A compression gauge is simply a tool used to measure cranking compression. You need to know UCCR and CCR of motor to accurately know what fuel to run. I don't know why this compression thing ain't a sticky or something?? It should be, so people simply stop using their harbor freight compression tester to dictate the octane requirements of their motors.

Contact kevin @ herr jugs. He will hook you up. I bought a +4 stroker crank from him shipped to my door for $395. Also bought nbillet intake manifolds from him. Great guy to deal with.

volcrano i replied to your pm..... If you pull 150psi on your compression gauge, which is "cranking psi", and your engine starts fine cold, you DO NOT have worn rings. You do know that when the engine is running, there is more psi (running psi) than when just cranking it over with your foot?? I'd like to see these chocolate marks on the cylinders. Scuff marks in 4 corners can mean detonation is occuring, from extremely high combustion temps, from lean jetting. if you want to look for blow by, which every engine will have some, as no rings seal 100%, you will see the chocolate color on the sides of the piston, from the oil burning to them. I highly doubt its the rings. Maybe the clutch is slipping some?? Maybe an ignition issue?? Hard to say without me there seeing/hearing it run and driving it. Prime example of worn rings, are the Ski-doo series 3 motors, that would take many pulls to start, when leaving the bar, but they would run just fine once running. See, the rings wouldn't seal enough when just pulling/cranking the engine over, but when running the pipe can "supercharge" the cylinder and you have the compression gases pushing the rings against the cylinder wall for sealing, and it would have enough compression then to run fine.

This topic is a mess.

Volcrano, how can you say that you're not trying to be an internet tough guy?....you were the one a few posts up, saying how you wanted to drill that guy (who was trying to help you) in his throat. Right away you wanna keyboard fight. And you keep saying how your question asked just gives you dumbass posts....well in all the replies in this topic, your the only one posting dumb comments and calling people stupid middle school names. And I mentioned the billet moped head I made, to give you an idea of the type of guy I am. I'm not your average "grease the a-arms and change engine oil" kind of guy. I'm above that and know a thing or two, so when I post to try and help you out, which other members have tried to do as well, don't be so quick to call us the "fucktard". Instead you should listen. You say that your not a child, but your posts are indicating that you're in like middle school or something. You say that you don't care what I post, or what help I have to offer......I thought you were on here looking for help?? So, I guess you know more than me and other members on here, so I guess you'll have your shee up and running great in no time. I bet right now my bud's moped does better wheelies than your "volcrano tuned" banshee

Ionroller, well said!

That would be part of the problem to the bike not pulling wheelies, as it can't put enough power to the rear tires, but a slipping clutch won't cause issues w/the engine cutting out or whatever.

Not to mention that with you calling everyone a fucktard this, or dickface that, I can tell your a little child. While your laying in bed, (after your mom just tucked you in), and your dreaming about how many more newspapers to deliver in order to buy the next new bolt on to your shee, I'm in my shop either on my lathe or mill, actually making my own performance parts, or porting my own stuff. I doubt you make your own heads/domes. I made a whole new custom billet head for my buddies razz moped.

Hey know it all..... plugs don't tell all that's going on with the jetting. Did you ever stop and think to check the piston wash? That's more important that plug color. Also, just because it burbles on top, doesn't mean its a carb/jetting issue......it could also be ignition related. I have a bud that chased his tail w/jetting and it was his ignition coil that was junk. He borrowed mine and his shee ran great. Put his coil back on and it was back to cutting out on top end. With your lean jetting, it sounds like your problem might be ignition related, as you have to lean the hell out of the motor to get it to run cleanly. Also, your question of asking "will taking my airbox lid off an increasing the mains, really make a big difference", is only going to get you opinions, as "this" guys view of a big difference is different than "that" guys difference. So, your running 230 mains on a +4mill? And before you go blabbing at me sarcastically about "wow, you put 310 mains in a banshee...wow, wow, wow", you should really know my backround and see my work and how well my shit runs.

First off, watch the grammar police. Second, if you're going to tell the guys that they are basically wrong for telling you that you're lean (and I know you are), then you must be smart enough to just figure the shit for yourself. FYI, I rejetted a banshee for a guy locally. He had 220 mains w/fmf fatty pipes and it wouldn't wheelie. I put in 27.5 pilots and 310 mains and his would wheelie, in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. Moral of the story.....YOU'RE TOO FUCKING LEAN!!!!