mopar1rules

It would be great for Chariot to starting producing billet cranks, at an affordable price. I'd be all over that.

What domes are those in the pic of all the parts?

You are correct. I just measured a stock 66mm blaster piston, a 795 series 64.5mm banshee piston, and a 64mm stock banshee piston and yep, the blaster piston is 6mm pin offset and 5mm offset for 795 series.

Not sure how many mph's you will add on top end, but you will accelerate faster for sure.

Anyone know what brand rods are on the TDR cranks? How are those cranks for durability?

Yeah you'll be fine

Blaster pistons have the wristpin moved 5mm from a banshee piston, not 6mm. Also, blaster pistons are used in big bore long rod builds. It doesn't matter the stroke really, just if the crank is a long rod.

oh ok

Thanks for the pics, but could you please take another one that shows the complete side of the vitos rod? I wanna get a better view of the rod shape and compare to my china crap one.

I think he posted a hot rods rod. Not to hi-jack the thread here, but does anyone have a side by side pic comparison of a hot rods rod and a vitos rod?

Herr jugs does sell the chinese knock off crank as well as the hot rods. I bought my chinese toilet crank 2yrs ago from herr jugs, before they were found out to be garbage. At that time I was told it was a USA made crank. Bullshit!! I never used this crank yet either. Right now its in another case for mockup purposes only.

While I was a memeber of another forum, I read about a fellow that turboed a Banshee and if I recall correctly, it would beatup the reeds right away.

The wiseco cranks I have seen fail in dirtbike applications, where to rod snaps and pretty much cuts the motor in half. Yeah, the Hot Rods cranks have a rod that seems to be slightly more durable than the rods on the $350ish 4mill cranks, with the bronze collored rods. I'm pretty sure the cheap cranks are built with parts from China and Taiwan. Hot Rods are all Taiwan. I'm really unsure now about running this cheapo 4mill crank here. To the OP, sorry to hear about your carnage. Its not fun or cheap. I feel your pain. Hopefully Kevin will work with you on this.

Blaster pistons have the wristpin moved 5mm higher up towards the crown edge, so it makes the piston sit lower, to make up for the 5mm added to the rod length. You only have to take in account then the 2mm additional stroke up and down. Follow me?

If the old domes don't blow head o-rings, then its a problem with the new domes and not the flatness of the cylinder decks. I would bet the farm on it, that whoever cut your squish band, has the angle negative to the piston crown angle, instead of postitive. I've seen this before. Double check the angle of the domes and piston crown with a machinist plate protractor.

that's what always happens with them cheapo taiwan rods. i would talk to kevin. when i bought my crank from him, he told me he would replace whatever got damaged from the crank breaking, as he was that confident in the crank he sold me. i would call kevin. he seems like a pretty straight shooter. its my beleif that the taiwan rods can't take the extra mass of the 68mm pistons and at higher rpm the rod stretches too much for the taiwan steel and snap.

Wsm should have 5mm pin offset, not 6mm.

The porting of them sleeves is probably a port job, tailored for top end. It won't be customized to your exact riding conditions and mods, like a site sponsor port job is. Not to mention it costs like $200 per cylinder for sleeve install and then you still gotta do port work to the cylinder casting after the sleeves are in, to blend in any mis-match of ports etc. It will cost more in the end to have big bore sleeves installed than to get the stock cylinders ported.

I personally would find another pipe, of either the fatty or gold series, so that way you have a matching set of pipes......either both gold series or both fattys. If the pipes have different dimensions, which I'm sure they do, you won't have both pipes having the same rpm band and one cylinder would be slightly fighting the other.

Why in the world do people not reply, saying if the problem has been taken care of or not?? That just bugs the shit outta me.

Couplex, I'm glad to see you post what you did. I've been trying forever to get the 15yr old punks of this site, to try and understand that what their compression gauge says they have for cranking psi, means zero in determining octane needed for the particular engine. Compression ratio, efficiency of the pipes, timing, squish clearance and head design, are some of the more important factors to use. Perfect example, my Husky 346xp chainsaw has 185 cranking psi and runs fine with 91 octane. Remember they have jackshit for a tuned exhaust, so there is no "supercharging" effect of the cylinder, conservative timing, small carb bore, low exhaust port, lower compression ratio, etc, so low octane is fine. Now my banshee has a 14.8:1 comp ratio and only pulls 150ish on a gauge, from higher exhaust port, but pump gas won't work for my moto. Never go off of a comp gauge ro determine the octane you need!! This is the reason for probably 60% of the blow ups posted on here.

You can't go by the cc spec of the domes to be what the trapped volume is. You need to have the engine assembled, with grease around the rings, grease on either side of head gasket, piston at top dead center, and head installed with nuts tightened. You then take a burette filled with kerosene and start filling up the head area thru the spark plug hole. Fill up to the bottom of the spark plug hole. Take note of the ML of kerosene used to fill the head area. 1ml = 1cc. If I know your bore and stroke, I can give you a cc amount that you will need to have, for a certain comp ratio. Understand?? Also, for those that said .030" off a stock head is too much for pump gas, aren't fully correct. How efficient your pipe is, how thick of a base gasket used, and amount of ignition timing, are just some of the other factors that will play into wether or not you will be seeing deto. I ran my stock head shaved .030" with Moose Racing base gaskets (thicker than stock) and had .050" squish and no deto with 93 pump gas. Timing was anywhere from stock to +4. I personally wouldn't run over +4 on 93 pump either.

I'll take all 3 stock heads. Pm me your info.

Why don't you do a squish check and eliminate the guessing game of what your squish clearance is?? Also, don't know why people just shave a head a certain amount and then play the guessing game of what octane to run. You need to measure the trapped volume of the combustion chamber, in order to accurately determine the octane needed to keep deto away. Also, +5 timing is over kill for pump gas.

Whats wrong with fmf pipes? Fattys are a decent pipe and would work fine. I personally am gonna try my r2's on my 4mill. I also have fattys to try.