mopar1rules

Thanks for the replys guys and thanks for the link. Too bad I missed out on that deal. Would have been the ticket. Oh well, I'll just keep my eyes open then I guess.

you need to know the compression ratios of the engine.....UCCR (uncorrected compression ratio) and CCR (corrected compression ratio). UCCR is full stroke compression ratio (like a 4 stroke) and the CCR is the ratio of volume, between the roof of the exh port and above, compared to what's above the piston, when its at top dead center. usuaally 15:1 is when you need 110 octane. guys, also remember that the squish band is still very important. a squish band that yields higher MSV (squish velocity), will require higher octane too. throw some advanced timing at it too, and you need better fuel too. you can have 2 engines with the same bore, stroke, and head cc volume, but 1 will have a higher exh port, and that one will show less psi on a compression gage (lower cranking psi), but running comprssions will be higher than cranking. see, don't get caught up on comp gage for dictating octane. this is what trinity does and they suck.

how do the 2's flow more than the 3's? any tests done to confirm proof, or is it mearly a guess?

does anyone have any dyno sheets or any experience w/the v-force 2 and 3's? i want to know which ones make the most hp. i'm going to be running some R2 pipes now, 34mm mikuni tmx carbs, pod filters, 15:1 UCCR, ported cylinders, port case, and billet intake cages w/built in cross over tube. i don't think my low tension carbon techs will support this new setup, so i'm open to ideas for some new reeds that will compliment this new setup.

by me, i can get the VP113 in the same metal 5gal jug for $35. i think the VP110 was around $33.

it still cracks me up when people use compression gage readings to determine octane required for the engine.

i hope so.

which josh are you talking to? lol. also, got the chrome pipes today and they were just as you described. they look great. pleasure doing business w/you.

how are the cpi big bore pipes, holding that much hp back? i thought those were suppose to be good pipes? would the cpi small bore inframes suite you better?

What cylinders are you planning on cutting the piston crown for? Why not just port the cylinders? Like I said, I can do the port work for you. When you don't have the right tools, it makes for a real pita to do the job.

Ok, so I ran your measurements.... Assuming .017" (.43mm) deck height 25.78mm exh is 200.9deg 42.56mm trans is 124.87deg 38.01deg blow down Your blow down is too long IMO for trail and dune riding and by the looks of the pics and seeing your durations, I would say there is room for repairs/improvements in those cylinders. I don't see much port chamfering and some of the work looks shaky. I don't know how well the port timings are gonna work w/your vitos pipes. I do port work and could fix some of your porting for you.

i paypalled you the money for the chrome R2's. please ship them asap. thanks.

pm sent on chrome r2's

Yeah, I personally like the look of the R2's better, but I don't want to really have to trim the hell outta my fenders, as I like the look of my stock fenders and not so much trimmed fenders. So, does anyone know which pipe allows easier access to the plugs when checking jetting? Also, I found a dyno sheeof rockets (maybe originals?) And cpi's and both pipes pulled the same exact HP, on the particular engine setup that was dynoed. The TQ numbers were pretty much the same, w/only .1 lbs difference. It did show the Rockets rev out ever so slightly longer. Can't remember now which pipe came on sooner.

hey guys. i'm going to be building a +4mill long rod motor, w/.080" dune ported jugs, ported case, 15:1 UCCR, 34mm TMX carbs, and pod filters. i want to know if you guys were in my shoes, which pipes would you choose between the two. which pipe has easier access to the spark plugs? do either pipe require fender cutting/trimming? don't care about loudness/db's, as sound ain't a problem.

guys, i need a std size (66mm) blaster piston for mockup. it can't be totally grenaded, but lightly seized will be good enough for what i need it for. please pm me.

interested in the spacer plate. sent you a pm.

Are the 17cc stroker domes still available? I'll take them if they are.

Nevermind on the pigle valve as I see you sold that. Do those stroker domes fit in a pro-design head?

Do you still have the pingle fuel valve and stroker domes? What octane are the somes set for? Please pm me. Thanks.

I have a PD head on my shee and never had any issues w/leaking. Even re-used the o-rings twice.

I have a PD head on my shee and never had any issues w/leaking. Even re-used the o-rings twice.

When I cut my stock head .030" and ran moose racing base gaskets (.040" if I remember), I had .050" squish. So, if you have .005" more off the head and the same moose gaskets (which you don't), you would have .045" squish, which is the minimum IMO on pump fuel and 9000 rpm. So, I'm gonna guess that you will have around .040"-.043" squish, cause your base gaskets are thinner, but won't squish down more than like .002" from being torqued, where as the moose gaskets will squish down quite a few thousandths.

no one can post up a link to a rebuild kit, w/o know what carbs you have exactly. also, post up a pic of the carbs, and maybe we can help identify them.

you are correct that the heavy duty sleeves start out at 64mm, but they can be punched out to 69.5mm.