mopar1rules

That crank looks just like my new one. Its one of the new cranks that all the builders are selling for around $380. I was told that the crank was made in the USA, but after seeing "taiwan" on the side of the crank and contacting the builder, I was then told the crank is assembled in the usa. Well that's a little different. The sled cranks that I have welded are welded w/no filler and the bead is pretty flush w/the crank throw.

guys, i have a stock head, that i can shave however many thousandths you want (.010" or .020", or .030" etc) and i also have my stock timing plate that's professionally modded on a CNC mill, for +4 timing. the timing plate is on my shee, but will pull it off if someone wants to buy it. $30ea sound fair? of course + shipping

looks like a ricky stator one to me.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=139895

those pics are of a set of cylinders that another member of this site tried to sell to me for $225. i told him that they are junk and i think whoever did the porting should be shot.

That's what I've been thinking the whole time since I seen his 1st post.

Can I see some pics? Definitely interested.

I have a good stock flywheel. I also have a set of stock bore/stock port cylinders, but don't really wanna sell them right now. What's the flywheel worth to you shipped?

What carbs do you even have?

What is your elevation and riding temps?

What is your elevation and riding temps?

There has to be some decent scratches/damage to either the piston, rings, and cylinder, or all of them. Maybe drain the coolant and pull the head? There shouldn't be a 20lb difference between the 2 cylinders.

Part of the problem is that trinity head, cause of their negative squish band. They have too low of an angle for whatever reason. If you stick w/that same trinity head and get tighter domes, you will need to find a machinist to re-machine the squish band, so the clearance is right and the angle is greater than piston crown angle. No offense, but it looks like that atv was never maintained at all in its life.

Sorry, I didn't see/notice that. Hence the reason I was asking if they were still available. Thanks for getting back to me tho.

What oil does he use?

Are the cpi pipes still available???

the links don't work for me? anymore info on the cylinders? are they ported for stroker? are the ported for stock stroke? are they ported at all? is the bore in good shape? pistons included?

Just bought a set of v-force 2 reeds from ban99 (martin) and parts were as good as described. Not one issue at all. Great communication and a hell of a guy. Thanks again martin!

you still have the cpi pipes? i have a friend that may be interested in them.

what's the procom cdi all about? does it have a different curve in it or something? what years does it plug into? i have a '98. please pm me w/reply. thanks.

could be too rich on oil, yes. but, are you too rich on gas? also, to check plugs good, you gotta run wide open down the road in at least 5th gear and hold it there for 6 sec or so, then kill the motor, but hold the throttle still wide open, till you come to a stop, then release throttle and take plugs out. check them now for that carbboard to chocolate brown. even better yet, if you can see the tops of your pistons, you can check the wash, which is a good indicator of how rich you are on gas.

Crank still available? What is the bore size on the cylinders? Are the bores scored?....they look to be in the pic. Any specs on the cylinders?.....durations?

i hate to break it to you slowmoe and no offense, but that cage looks like crap. are you sure ray charles wasn't the one operating the grinder? or did stevie wonder tell you where to cut?

Your the first guy to tell me V3's are better. Now I dunno which to get. I will have a 4mill long rod, 34mm tmx carbs w/billet intakes and built in cross over tube, aggressive dune style port job, R2 pipes, pod filters, 15:1 UCCR, port case, etc. Which ones do you think I should run?......V2 or V3?

Interested in the cylinders as well. What is the bore size and can you send me some pics of the bore, as they look a little scored when looking thru the intakes in that one pic. Also, I have a friend that may want that 4mill crank. I'll ask him. Also, is it a long rod crank?