mopar1rules

your port timing will probably way too aggressive. to help get the port timing back in the neighborhood that works good for a 4mill stroker, when going from a stock stroke ported jug, you will need to have the bases of the cylinder machined to help lower the ports. only problem is the domes will need to be custom now, to have a deeper step cut in them for the additional clearance, but you gotta watch how close the top ring is getting to the top of the cylinder. i would just buy a good used set of stock cylinders and have them ported for a 4mill stroker. sell you stock stroke ported cylinders, to help offset the cost of 4mill ported cylinders.

with your current pipes and setup, i would suggest low tension carbon techs and get an mx style port job.

wether or not you can use your ported stock stroke jugs w/your 4mill depends on how aggressively timed the ports are. what pipes do you have? what are your current stock stroke durations?

"Putting dimples on after porting".....wtf?? Sounds like some salesman snake oil to me. I would look elsewhere after hearing that. Give kevin herr @ herr jugs a call. You'll be much happier in the end like already stated.

Yeah, get your cylinders ported. What other mods do you have? Got pipes? Got stock head yet? What type of riding do you do?

i think what he is talking about when he says it will increase the spark timing, is that the time for the flame front to travel to the outside edges of the bore, is reduced slightly, as the spark plug is now sitting down closer to the bore edges and piston crown. as far as milling the head to initiate when the spark plug actual fires, is not true or possible. hope this clears up the confusion.

Yeah, when I talked to pat hauck on the phone about my hi-rpm cdi box that they reprogrammed for use w/their race pipes, he didn't wanna tell me shit about the cdi box and his race pipes that I have. I won't do business w/them ever again. On another note, if you want bottom end for your woods riding, get a +4mill stroker, +4deg timing, 15:1 UCCR for 110 octane, 186* exh, 124* main trans, 122* second trans, 120* boost. Leave intake windows alone......just blend things in nicely. What pipes do you have?

Who cares if you worked for pat hauck. Did you do his port work? Hauck's port work sucks bad. You pay a lot for just a little cleanup. I have a big bore srx top end that they did and the port work is horrible. The roofs of the ports aren't even flat on the transfers. They are all wavy and uneven. Not to mention haucks workers are idiots and never know what to tell ya on the phone, if you call and ask a question about one of their products. And please don't get me started on their clutch kits.....ugh. Anyhow, why don't you ask pat hauck on what he suggests for port work? There are suppose to be your number 1 shop for yamaha performance.

Hey guys, I remember seeing some posts yrs back about guys using like r6 or fzr600 clutch plates or something like that, cause they have more fiber and hold up to the higher hp motors. Mine's going be +4mill long rod and 68.5mm bore. Which clutch plates should I get. Thanks.

Fierce, I haven't heard back yet from you. I paid for the crank. Please send asap. Thanks.

if the crank is truley good and drop it in and go, i'll take it. send me your paypal address and i'll send the payment. and all bearings and rods are fine?

don't we all? lol

Mike, I think I'm following you. SlowMoe is just pretty much increasing area, w/o altering the port roof/duration.

Yeah, when I was interested in them cylinders from him, he couldn't tell me the bore size accurately. When I asked for the bore size, at first he would ignore the question, or just say he doesn't know for sure. Then he finally told me that the bore is 67mm. I said, well does it have a wsm heavy duty sleeve or something, cause you can't bore stock sleeves to 67mm. He answered the question by saying that 67mm is what the previous owner told him and that's all he knows. So this loser has been ripping people off for a while? He's pulled this stunt on this very site before? And he's ripped people off on other forums, like planet sand? Does he use the same name all the time?

Imo, w/cutting them pistons like you described, I think you still are shortening the power stroke and increasing the port duration, as the piston crown's edge is what dictates the timing, as when it opens or closes ports off. So, if that piston crown timing edge has been altered in any way, so has the port timing and power stroke. At least I think so.

3000 fpm is not much for piston speed. Sleds are around 3400 stock or so. IMO you could safely go to 3500-3600 w/o issues. My sled engine I think was around 3600 fpm or so and I don't ave issues.

The cast pistons will hold up just fine with the +4 stroker crank. A blaster has a 57mm stroke stock and a banshee is 54mm and blaster stock cast pistons hold up just fine. I personally like the pro-x pistons.

Its not the intakes so much that matters, but the durations of the exh and transfer ports. Without knowing them durations, we can't tell ya squat.

anybody ever heard of these procom cdi boxes, that are suppose to have the rev limiter shifted 1000rpm higher, w/a better timing curve? how good are these units? also, here's the link to the cdi: http://www.procomeng.com/index.php?view=catalog&cat_id=1&brand_id=2&model_id=44

In the pic that shows the bottom of the cylinder, is that daylight I see thru the transfer runner? Its a white ball approx the size of a BB. In the left runner. Also, I can see where "coonie" f'ed up on the side of one of the intake ports. Not to mention the bottom of the transfer cutouts is kinda uneven from side to side. Tell coonie to leave cylinders alone.

If you turn the plate so its at the position where it would be, if the mounting hole was still a hole and not a slot like it is now, that would be the zero position and if you go all the way to the end of the slot, then its +4 timing. Middle of the slot is +2 and to get +1 or +3 gotta get it positioned just off of center. Understand?

Can I see a pic of the other side of the radiator?

Sorry to hear that you're getting hosed. I was gonna buy them +4mill cylinders and crank from him, but after him not answering my questions about the condition of the crank, and seeing that the pics showed the bores of the cylinder scored up, after he tried telling me that they are fine, I knew something was fishing and backed out. Glad I did.

I never got your pm. Could you please send again? Thanks.

Forgot to add that if mine is like that I'm gonna be pissed if it had a weld bead that hits, when I try dropping it in the case. Crank is still in the box.