mopar1rules

I'll do it for you. Send me a pm and we can further talk.

Are these still available? Interested.....

Did you get payment yet for these? If not, i'm really interested in them.

How much for cylinders then? How are the gasket surfaces of the cylinders? Dinged up??

Can you post some pics of the cylinders and head please? Interested.....

Anybody ever degree in the ports of an Athena big bore? Just curious what the port timings are.

With your exhaust that wide on the bottom, is your piston skirt going to be big enough to keep the mixture sealed in the case, when the piston is ATDC?

Looks like a long rod piston, versus a stock rod length piston.

Too much work?? I guess replacing pistons every few hrs of operation, due to damage from deto, is easier than figuring out the trapped volume and then knowing EXACTLY what octane is needed?? Well, the good side is that you idiots are going to keep the site sponsors and wiseco in business, w/your compression gauge octane dictator.

Correct. You would need like 21cc-22cc domes and I would suggest nothing over +4 timing for sure and would stick closer to +2 instead.

To figure out your UCCR (un-corrected compression ratio), you take the swept volume of cylinder (radius of cylinder sqaured X pi = "something" X stroke) and add on the volume of the head dome volume, and head gasket volume (if applicable.....like if you have a steel head gasket), then you take that total volume and divide that by the trapped volume (volume above the piston, when piston is at TDC). To find out the trapped volume and head volumes, you will need a lab burrette (sp?), and some kerosene, and some grease. I like to get the piston within 1/2" from TDC, then smear grease all around the top portion of the cylinder bore. Then bring the piston to exact TDC. The grease just insures that the kerosene is sealed from leaking past the rings. Be sure to wipe off the excess grease that piles up. Of course the head is off for this. Once piston is at TDC, and the head is a cast stock unit, I will smear a thing film of grease to both sides of the head gasket, and then when the head gets bolted down, nothing will leak. Make sure engine head gasket surface is flat/parallel to the ground. Start filling the engine w/kerosene thru the spark plug hole. Stop when the kerosene gets to the top of the spark plug hole. Look on burerette of how many cc's were needed to fill that area up. Then subtract approx 2.2cc for the spark plug hole and that's your trapped volume. Take this value and divide by the total volume of what I said before. Hopefully this sheds some light for you guys.

What head are you running?

Don't be worried about having something wrong w/your motor. The psi specs on that chart on noss machines website, is the theoretical readings....just like my tsr software would say I should have something like 182psi on my comp gage w/my 14.8:1 comp ratio, but I don't. Gauges all read a little different and rings don't seal 100% and not to mention, the height of your exhaust port is what reall influences the psi reading on the gauge. If you have 18cc domes, I would suggest you stay on 110. If they are prodesign domes, 110 will be safe, but pump gas won't work for sure.

Don't use the cranking psi figure from compression gauge to dictate octane. Need to use compression ratio to know for sure. What domes you running now?

If you follow compression gauge to dictate octane of fuel to run, you won't only be needing domes from M&M, but you'll need pistons as well.

Don't follow the guys advice above me and rely on your compression testers reading to dictate what octane fuel to run. Cranking PSI has nothing to do w/what octane fuel to run!!! My buddies stock Solo 681 chainsaw makes 180 cranking psi, and is happy as a clam w/91 pump gas, but my banshee that's 140 cranking PSI would be real crabby w/pump gas. It has 14.8:1 UCCR. You need to know compression RATIO of the motor, to know exactly what fuel to run. I still don't get why this info doesn't get stickied??

guys, i have a set of ceramic coated pipes for the banshee. they make smooth power delivery and favor trail/woods riding. make an offer. these need to be cleared out of the attic.

That's exactly what I do....mastercam for the machining of 3d parts and lettering. I use autocad for my 2d quick drawings of fixtures. autocad blows for 3d design work. for me its solidworks all the way for 3d. its so nice when you change you part and it automatically changes the dimensions on the print, that's tied to the 3d part.

Great write up!! Are you using solidworks for your 3D cad design? I love solidworks!

sorry i sold them locally. also yfz450 stock front bumper is sold.

I noticed my banshee had a top end loss once I advanced the timing +4 deg w/my .030" shaved stock head. When advancing the timing, you raise the running compression inside the engine and combined w/adding more compression from shaved head, the engine reaches peak compression levels too soon, when the piston is on its way up, and the top end over-rev is killed. Take your timing back to stock and try again.

Sorry for the slow responses. Been away for a while. The yfz450 front bumper is like near new take off condition. No dents. Maybe just a chip or two. Make offer on the front bumper slobanshee.

Cranking compression values also depend on how high the exhaust port is.

Please make offers guys

do the rods say "29L" on them? if so, and the crank is still available, please pm me. i'm interested in it.