mopar1rules

also, what is your bore diameter?

What's your elevation and riding temps, cause your main jet choice sounds a little lean to me. Also, the domes to run depends on the octane of fuel you want to run. What fuel you plan on running?

Make sure they chamfered the ports, not only to prevent ring snagging, but more so, to help the oil not being "scraped" off the rings and piston skirts. You no what no oil will do to wear on moving metal components. Don't polish the intake at all and you only need to sand the exh port w/120 to 180 grit sanding drums and cartridge rolls, to make the surface smooth enough, for carbon to not buildup and stick anymore.

"Woods" type port jobs are ment to give you peak hp @ a early rpm of like 7000-7500 and meant to work w/pipes like gnarly's, etc. "Dune" type port jobs are meant to give peak power @ a higher rpm, like 8000-8500 and meant for pipes like t-5's and CPI's, etc. "Drag" type port jobs are for like shearer pipes and for all out top end rpm/hp, of like 9500. For your future planned T-5 pipes, and dune type riding, I would suggest 190deg exh duration and 32deg blow down.

i don't think you're lean on the mains. my buddy has 380's in his shee, that is bored .090" over, ported, and is running tm28 mikuni flatslides.

here is a dent in the right pipe, by your leg, facing out.

here is a pic showing a dent in the left pipe

here is a pic of the pipes

i have for sale, a used set of PSI pipes for a banshee. they make decent bottom-mid power, so they are oriented for a tight trail or woods type rider. they are ceramic coated and have a few dents. asking $125 OBO. here is a link to a dyno sheet of the pipes: http://www.angelfire.com/extreme2/yambanshee/techtips/pipes/psipipes.html

i know when i had moose head and base gaskets, that i had .080" squish, thus requiring me to shave .030" off the head, to get .050" squish. the moose head gasket is the same thickness as the OEM head gasket. the OEM base gasket is thinner than my new moose racing base gasket. i'm guessing that the squish clearance w/the OEM gasket, would be approx .068", as my moose gasket is appearing to be .012" thicker than the OEM base gasket.

remember that different base gaskets and head gasket thicknesses will change that too.

Ok guys. I tested the pipes tonight on my shee and there is no way that these pipes are like, or anywhere near CPI's. These PSI's are a bottom to mid pipe for sure. Top end isn't as good as my fatty's. I probably lost 6hp on upper mid-top, w/the PSI's, versus my fmf fatty's. The PSI pipes also fit for shit. The welds weren't bad, but the spring hook tabs were in crappy locations versus the fatty's. The PSI's would be a ok/decent woods pipe, but not a dune or open trail pipe. The PSI's were noticably quieter than the fatty's too. Needless to say, the fatty's are back on. Just thought I would share the info w/you guys. So, these pipes are now for sale, as they aren't for my riding style.

you'll be fine cutting .040" off the stock head, and running 93 octane, w/an exh port that high. you'll probably end up cutting .040" off, to get .040" squish, as i had to cut .030" off my head to give me .050" squish. that was w/a .010" thick head gasket and OEM base gaskets. i also used moose racing gaskets and had the same squish, +or- .001". can't remember the thickness of the OEM and moose base gaskets.

Nobody else has ran these or heard/seen anyone run these?

what mods does your shee have and what is current jetting?

ok cool. yeah, i've been searching on google today for some more info on PSI pipes and found these 2 pieces of info so far.... http://www.angelfire.com/extreme2/yambanshee/techtips/pipes/pipeinfo.html http://www.atvsource.com/articles/product_reviews/2000/100400_psi_performance_banshee_pipes.htm

Hey guys, my little bro picked up a set of ceramic coated PSI banshee pipes this weekend at a local swap meet. I've never ran them before, or heard of anyone running them before, so has anyone on here heard of how good or poorly they run? how do you guys think they compare to my FMF fatty pipes or any other aftermarket pipes too for that matter? any info that you guys maybe have like a dyno sheet or something, or anything informative, would be more than appreciated. Thanks.

Not so much the squish, but more so the trapped comp ratio.

i can port your cylinders if you like and i have a friend that could too. pm me if interested.

so, your buddies china made wiseco crank thru a rod and so did my buddies china wiseco crank. they're junk. there is a reason they are the cheapest aftermarket crank. you get what you pay for.

cast piston breaking its skirt off, sounds like too much piston/cyl clearance. well whatever, you run what you want and i'll run what i want.....exactly, "to each his own".

the only reason i mentioned anything about the china made wiseco crank, was to further confirm the original topic starters comment, about hearing wiseco outsourcing alot of their work.

the problem w/the wiseco pistons, is that the skirts/piston walls are soo thin, that they don't hold up. they distort and collapse over time, while a pro-x cast piston and oem cast piston, hold up much better. and i can run a tighter piston/cylinder clearance w/the cast pistons. i love the cast pistons, and have never had any issue. i can't say the same for the wisecos. a buddy of mine ran a wiseco china made crank in his '08 yz250 and the rod snapped, wrecking his cases, cylinder, and v-force reed cage. very expensive rebuild. i hate wiseco stuff. quality is slipping. their wristpins, circlips and i believe rings, are now made in taiwan and china. the piston itself is still made in the states tho.

i'm looking for a good used set of 17cc pro-design domes. they can't be set up for a stroker or blaster pistons, or whatever. they need to be just like they would come from pro-design new. please pm me w/what you have got. thanks.

Blaster pistons have 9deg piston crowns, while banshee piston crowns are 13deg. If you run a dome that's got a squish band angle setup for the blaster piston in your banshee, you will have some major issues. You'll most likely go thru o-rings and have some runnning/tuming issues, as well. Squish band angle needs to be no less than equal to piston crown angle.