2001Stroker

That's good cylinder pressure for a stock motor. I think that most people that use Amsoil, mix it at 50:1. And for future reference, there's a search button at the top right of every forum page. You will get most of your answers using that. If you're in the main page, it will search every forum. If you're in Jetting, it will only search the Jetting forum, and so on. And welcome to the HQ.

This is what it used to look like, before I tore it down. It's just a frame right now.

I ride pretty much nothing but trails, with my +6 swingarm. But, they are wide open trails. Beleive it or not, it's real easy to swing my ass end around. In the dirt, that longer arm makes it break traction real easy. Different story if you were on the asphalt, or had paddle tires.

That's why I keep stressing to people that actual compression ratios, port duration, timing, elevation, and air temp have ALOT to do with what octane fuel you need to use. You can have 150psi of cranking pressure and need 110octane, and 200psi of cranking pressure and only need 93octane. Different port durations will change your cranking pressure alot. For piston dome size, enter a negative number. Compression Ratio Calculator Metric Conversions

I'm picking up my frame tonight. I'll post a pic tomorrow, so you can see what the anodized powder looks like. And the powder that I bought, has a high gloss to it. You just HAVE to use a chrome base to get the full effect of it.

I don't know about older versions, but the heads on the new Cheetah PV's come with removable domes. I haven't been able to find an aftermarket coolhead, but you can change out the domes, to get different ratios. And not only is the size different, but it has it's own bolt pattern. EDIT: I just seen that sheefreak posted that RK TEK makes billet heads for the Cheetah. I'm gonna have to check that out. You have a link to them?

10.5:1 is the highest ratio that you can go at sea level, with 0* of timing, and using 93octane. Your port duration also plays a role in that too. With your setup, you should be completely fine with pump gas. And, AVGAS burns friggin disgustingly nasty. Someone (can't remember who) posted some pics of their engine a few weeks ago, that had been using that crap, and it looked like someone threw oily sand in their motor.

No, that's from Eastwood's website. My frame is at the powder coater right now. Eastwood has all kinds of translucent colors, for a very good price.

x3 on the ODI's. I have the diamond griped ones. Very comfy, and no slip.

This is the powder color I chose for my frame. It's called Anodized Blue. http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/email_ima...odized_blue.jpg

Here, I'll put this up one more time.

I zip tie everything also. But I cut a small peice of rubber hose, and put it over the fuel line to keep it from rubbing the pipe.

Pretty simple, but kinda hard to explain without actually showing you. Hope I don't get you all confused. On each side, you have a tie rod with 2 rod ends. On each tie rod, one end is right hand threaded, and the other is left hand threaded. Loosen the jamb nuts beside the rod ends. Make sure the handlebars are completely straight. Then just turn the tie rod which ever way it needs to go. Shortening it will make the tires toe out, and vice versa. I just use a tape measure to get them aligned. Measure between the two front tires, in the front and back, from the widest part of the tires. You have to measure right in the middle of the tire, height wise. They should be the same measurements when they are straight. Just make sure you keep checking the handlebars for straightness. They will turn on their own while doing this. Then, just tighten the jamb nuts back up. As far as the spacers, I would imagine that they use the stock studs and lug nuts. I really couldn't tell ya.

A bench grinder with a soft cotton buffing wheel on it, and some polishing compound. Get the stick of compound. I use "F" compound for cleaning, and "E" compound for polishing to a mirror shine.

Personally, I only use it on large gaskets, like the clutch cover. I wouldn't worry about it on your water pump cover. You could, just for added security, but not really neccessary. As far as o-rings, just a thin layer of wheel bearing grease or vasoline works great.

I got an oval LED, pigtail, and mount from a local tractor trailer supply. Works great, bright as hell, completely sealed, has tail and brake lights, and sits in a rubber grommet. Paid $20 total for everything. Some people don't like how big it is, but I like it.

This is what I like to use. I'm sure there will be alot of different opinions though. Blue Loc-Tite on all bolts (Just a dab) Permatex Form-A-Gasket on larger gaskets (Little white plastic can with a brush in it) ATF in the cylinders (Helps seat the rings, and lubes the cylinder walls) Yamabond for the cases

Yea, I seen that a few weeks ago. Someone was asking input about it on HillClimbersForum. I didn't think it would be a good idea having one for trail riding, since mud could get caked up in it. Mud tends to hold heat, and that could possibly make it overheat.

Mine are ATV mid rise.

Here ya go. Hope this helps. You need to do a plug chop, to read them good. With fresh plugs, run it all the way to the top of 6th gear, then kill it, and coast to a stop. Then pull them out, and use a hack saw to cut one side of the threads off.

I use DOT-5. Highest heat rating. Helps keep from getting brake fade, and the fluid from breaking down as fast. You might be able to get away with DOT-4. Did you get them bled?

I have the ProTaper SE bars. I love 'em. They're a little lower than the stock Banshee bars. They have a nice bend to them too. I'm 6'0", so I have to crouch down a little, which I like doing. They should be perfect for someone your height.

Sending you a PM right now

Take the resevoir off. Fill it up completely. Open both bleeders, and let it gravity bleed itself. DO NOT pull the lever while doing this. Let it bleed on it's own for about 30 minutes, topping off the resevoir the whole time. Also tap on the calipers with a wrench, or something small, to help get the trapped air out of them. Once you've done that, close off the bleeders, replace the top to the resevoir, and then try it. Gravity bleeding has always worked the best for me.

I can only afford 1. So, that's all I got.