2001Stroker

30mm or 1-1/4". They do have it, I just bought on last week for $5 from there.

All I can say is......WOW!

A hammer and a punch. Just work it around until it comes out.

GNCC style racing.

I use Maxima SuperM synthetic blend pre-mix at 36:1, and Castrol ATF Type-F in the tranny. I'm gonna switch it up to either Klotz Supertechniplate or Maxima Castor927 on my new motor.

PM sent

Nice. I'm a HUGE fan of the Al Gore designed V-3 engine, and the In-Dash Condom dispenser.

What? Even if they ain't the same, that's a steal. I would buy them, just to resell. They usually go for somewhere around $160-$200.

Yup, sounds like it got some grooves cut in it. I hate to make an echo in here, but you're probably gonna need to sawzall it out.

This is the one that you want. TM Design. It rests up against the case, and gives you the most protection. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/xcart/custome...cat=&page=1

Mine is in the "other" category. Didn't realize that my slider mount was bent a little, and it was pushing the chain right off the side of the rear sprocket. Did it to me twice. Now, I'm awaiting some cases to arrive in the mail, because of something so stupid. A free fix, that cost me $175.00. Oh, well. The way that I'm looking at it, I'm just helping boost the economy. :biggrin:

Here's mine before I tore it down.

Are you talking about the hose that's for purging the air out of the head? Usually located on top of the head, at the highest point? If so, does it have a bleeder valve on the head, instead of the hose? If it doesn't have either of the two, you need to drill a hole at the highest point of the head, and put either a bleeder valve there, or put a fitting there and run a hose to the top of the radiator. If it goes to the top of the radiator, it has to be at the very top, where their is no coolant. Some people think that you can hook that line in the middle of the radiator, but that could force the air to stay trapped in that hose or in the head.

A 3lb hammer wouldn't do the trick for me. I ended up having to use alot of heat, and a huge Matco air hammer with 150psi.

This is what it looked like 2 months ago, before I tore it down. This is my new frame color. Keeping the silver Maier plastics.

I have silver Maier's, and you can barely see the scratches on it, and is still as glossy as when I got them. White seems to turn yellow after a while. Blue does show creases and scratches bad. Everyone that I know with red, it seems to fade. So, my vote is for silver. But, I don't like seeing alot of the same colors on here. That's why I got that color.

I have ASV's also. I am contemplating getting a Magura too, but with the ASV lever. I figure that if I don't like it, someone would buy it.

Castrol ATF Type-F

Bought my HotRods 4mil crank. Awesome guy to deal with. Paid immediately. Thanks herc.

I just got my frame back last week. Cost me $100 at a local coater, for a chrome base and candy blue top coat. I picked out the colors, and he bought them. I blasted it myself, but I asked how much it would cost for him to do it, and he said $100. He was a small powder coating company. Some of the big companies around here wanted $150 for the blasting, and $350 for the PC. They're crazy as hell.

Yea, definately a-arms first. If you get an axle first, your bike will be hard to control at high speeds. You can always get some used wheel spacers for the rear, just until you can afford the axle.

Can you be more specific please?

Doesn't Jeff port for Shearer?

I think with the refurbs, you only get a one year warranty though. Limited Lifetime, if you buy new.

Shift star is worth it. You can grind it down the stock one yourself if you want. As far as levers, ASV. No question about it.