2001Stroker

He's building a set for me right now. Fully adjustable, chromoly +3+1 arms, and tie rods. I wouldn't have chose him to build them, if I didn't think they were worth it.

You and those hubs good friends?

I always just take a wrench and put it on the inside nut, then let the end of it rest on the concrete floor. Then take another wrench, put it on the other nut, and hit the end of it with a heavy hammer. Never had one come loose yet.

Local hardware store man. I think they're 5mm or 6mm bolts. I'm sure someone on here can tell you the size and pitch. I bought all my body bolts from one. All stainless hex heads.

WOW! Dude comes in here with a legitimate question, and you answer him like this. I'm sure alot of people don't actually know what they're supposed to do. Why don't you FUCK OFF!

I think you have an air leak. Reving up and not cutting off with spark plug wires off is an indication of lean conditions. Are you losing any transmission fluid? Or, have you noticed any pressure in the transmission? Dip stick smell like 2-stroke gas? You can also leak air where the cases meet. You won't be able to find that leak with a can of carb cleaner, or smoke. I would do a pressure test on the motor.

great buyer too.

that's classic

First off, welcome to the site. You would have to convert it to DC, get a higher output stator, and add a battery. Why would you want Raptor lights? Please don't tell me you are planning on putting Raptor plastics on it. It's a Banshee, not a Raptor.

Sounds like it might have leaned out on you. Probably time for a teardown. :ermm:

donkeypuncher, you beat me to it. I seen that and :biggrin: I like his "Lightweight Chrome Wheels". Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't plated steel heavier than aluminum? :shoothead:

Did you get the cylinders ported for the 4mil, longrod? Personally, I would ditch the plate and get stroker domes.

Since you're riding trails, just keep the box, but don't worry about the lid. I would get a performance filter that fits in the stock box.

What length a-arms are the brake lines for?

It's not likely that it's gonna blow up, because of an exhaust leak. A major function of exhaust, is to get the heat away from the engine. On a 2-stroke, unburnt gasses go into the expansion chamber and kinda swirls around and gets sucked back into the motor, and then burns some more, for maximum performance. So, a leak needs to be fixed. I reccommend a new frame. Don't rig it up.

The splines are worn out on either the sprocket hub, or the axle. Like Loco already said, tightening the nuts down too tight will not fix that. Take it apart and check the splines. They should be flat on the tops. If they're sharp or getting sharp, they're worn out.

Yup, BR8ES or B8ES plugs. I use Castrol ATF Type-F in the tranny. Works very well.

4mil, aggressive trail ported stock cylinders, 35mm carbs, Boss intake, coolhead with 21cc domes, timing plate at +4 degrees. That should take care of your $1,500 budget.

The whole clutch cover, yes. The insert that says Yamaha is plastic, so no.

I would get rid of the factory kill switch all together, put it there, and get an aftermarket light switch.

12v, 100w, AC system. Pretty much any kick start engine comes from the factory with AC power.

You can get a clean frame all day long on here for $200-250. It would take you about 2-3 hours to tear your bike down completely, and another 2-3 to put it back together. You can't stretch steel. That's what I would do.

It's pinned in the Banshee Repairs section. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68045

Take it off and put a new one on. Not tyring to be an ass, but there's nothing special to it.

Texaco is not a quality oil. That's probably most of your problem. Get a good racing 2-stroke oil. I would bump it to 36:1 to see if that helps. Use NGK B8ES, or BR8ES.