R. Rollins

Ok here is what you can do in order. First take care of ordering the carrier stuff. Order a Clymer Yamaha Banshee manual for your year of ATV. Order a carb gasket kit for both carbs. Order or purchase a new set of standard NGK plugs for it. Order a Carb sync tool as shown on the Banshee HQ video section:(How to manually sync your Banshee carbs. Its also on You tube. (This carb sync tool will run about $35.00)..Its made for VW bugs I believe.) Get an inline fuel filter to fit your fuel lines. Order a TORS removal kit if it still has the TORS boxes on top of the Carbs. (note: A search on this site will explain all this TORS stuff) All this so far is to get you ready for the mechanics work. It will keep you from riding her with screwed up bearings while it is dissassembled. Secondly. Take the airbox out completely. next. Remove the carbs completely.Make sure that you note the positions of the carb slider hooked onto the cables are positioned when removed. (If you install backwards the engine will run badly) Mark both carbs left and right with something. Taking note of cable positions and locations of anything else. Photos help as well. Get yourself some carb cleaner (at least 2 cans) and a metal or plastic pan. Take the carb apart and clean it completely inside and out. put in the new gaskets and check to make sure all orifices are free and clear. install the new needle onto the cable in the exact same groves that they came off of. (dont bend the needle) Re-assemble the carb with the new gaskets and do teh same proceedure for the other carb. Next you might want to inspect your reeds while they are exposed. (check the manual) Put the carbs on the exact same side that they were removed from. hook up the carbs to the boots, assemble cables etc. Re-set the air mixture screws to factory settings according to your manual. Adjust both the exact same on both sides. Now do the same for the idle screws. Put in the new Plugs after checking the plug gap just to be safe. check your spark by removing a plug still attached to the plug wire and crank on the kick starter while holding onto the plug boot and getting the spark end close to the engine near a scratched surface area. . Do this to both sides checking for a good spark. Now its time to adjust the throttle cable. Look at the left carb with the one that has the choke mechanism. Adjust the cable for that one first. now position your eyes between the carbs and slowly lift the carb sliders with a push of the thumb throttle lever. (the idea is to watch them both lift up and adjust them to lift at the same time exactly.) The adjustments should be made on top of the carb where the cable meets the carb top. You will have to pull the rubber boot up to expose these adjuster nuts on the cable. Once you have these adjusted so that they both lift at exactly teh same time you are manually in sync. Now turn on the fuel to the fuel lines and wait for the fuel to flow. Choke the carb and attempt to start. It should start You can now adjust the carbs further by getting your carb sync tool and checking and adjusting for maximum vacum (remember to adjust both sides by 1/4 turn incraments only.)(Do the same on both sides each time you make an adjustment.) I hope I havent missed much. If I have . Other MASTER BANCHEE HQ people please fill in the other details that I may have messed up on. This is only a guide that should get you reall close to the ball park on where you need to be. After a while you will be able to hear and feel what teh engine is doing. At any altitude other than sealevel, I would consider getting the appropriate jet sizes for the altitude you plan on running her at....this is really important. Once all is verified you can adjust the jetting with a good plug chop proceedure. This can be explained later once you get her running, tuned slightly and cleaned out first. This is what I would do in your situation. I hope I steered you down the path of good beginnings. R. Rollins sends....

I have my kill switch disconnected as well. I have a disconnect cord connected to it instead. When I dune I ride like a raped ape. If it ever got away from me It will kill the engine at least.

Hey Tate: I have your cross over tube for free for ya. I have two rear rims but they are steel ITP rims. Ray Rollins sends...

WELCOME TO THE SHEE>>>>>ZONE Your bike looks outstanding for an old Banshee. Wow its in great condition. Clean her up, do all your maintenance, oil the chain, and lub up the chassis. Check her carbs for sync and jetting. Change the oil and have some fun.......ya got to have a maintenance baseline,before ya ride. Go to the video section and at teh top there is a video on carb sync. Have fun man

These are the older style with a different baffle at the muffler end. Other than that they look the same. Cool.

Here is the link to the E-bay auction that has this carb sync tool for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/Carb-Sync-Airflow-Mete...%3A1%7C294%3A50 I thought this would be a click on active link but its not. Just try and copy and past it. Ray Rollins sends...

I would pull it out of his shop and get expert help from the HQ scene here. If he cannot do it telling by his response, then he is unqualified. Get a book, and read alot on the issue. You will find alot of info here as well. I would bet that by alot of reading on the issue and some e-mails and phone calls that you can do it yourself. We are at Mile high and this altitude is nothing like Glamis. So you need to provide alot of details to us here to help you out. Listen to the Captains, and Generals on this issue. People that race and have thier own Banshee shops even. Those are the experts here. There is a sequence called plug chop that is really useful.

Damn: I havent considered that. The dealership in Cheyenne had a dyno at thier shop. They had rejetted it before I picked it up. I bought it right out of the crate. I have Nitro Tates video now and plan on trying the plug chop sequence on the thing and see where its at. I may also check the brass jet rod and see which grove its sitting at as well. Thanks for the input, as I would hate to burn it up. Even though its running great, doesnt mean its right. I guess the Dealer ship mech could be wrong, Its worthn a good check. Good point.

I had done the same thing you have been doing. Eyeballing all the pipe threads on which ones to get. I thought that I had chosen a pipe to get me good low end torque with the DMC916 pipes that I just ordered last week. After like 25 replies I had thought that they were considered a good low to mid pipe. I just learned a few days ago that they suck on low end and that they scream at the high end. As far as the spark arrester, It is removeable, and do not come with the pipes set. Its another $59.00 for the screen system US forrestry approved. I am hearing that they also make a noise deading system for it as well I havent verified it for the 916 system just yet. My trail bike will now become a duner I guess. I do have a set of the Toomy T-5 pipes on my other Banshee and they have never let me down draggin in the sand. I have never raced any highly modded ATV's yet either. When I hear the T-5 hit the high notes I love them. The $650.00 price tag for the show chrome pipes kept me from them on this purchase. I have heard that the Sheearers In frames are like gold on the dunes. As far as the FMF pipes, I would call the manufacturer and see what the power ranges are for the pipe design. I am not familiar with those pipes. I only have the T-5 pipe that I can blab about for now. You say that you dont plan on much modding. If the dunes where you ride are at high altitudes then you wont need bigger carbs because you need less fuel and more air. I would expect that dunning requires more high end, at least this is the case for me at the Waldon dunes at 8,500 feet above sea level.

I am not exactly sure on this but here goes: I bought a brand new Banshee last spring. I had never had a brand new one so I followed the owners manual and mixed up some 32:1 mix fuel. I had oil comming out both tail pipes and getting all over my garage walls. I was pissed. I took it out for a couple of rides and the engine leaked antifreeze all over my pipes. I finally took it all the way to Cheyenne Wyoming, where I bought it. (I live in the Denver area) After that long drive they tell me that i needed 40:1 ratio. Now why that damn manual has not reflected this after 20 plus years of production I cannot tell you. After they drained my fuel tanks and replaced the mixture with 40: 1 fuel mixture, The bike ran great. It did not overheat and did not spit out oil out of the pipes. Yamaha sells the small containers of yamalube in the size that when you dump it into an empty 5 gallon fuel can then add your High octane gasoline to fill it all the way up, you then have the 40: 1 ratio. I am no expert but this yes embarrasingly enough turned out to be a learning curve for me. I use what works. And this worked for me.

Please disregard my earlier plug check as this was too vague and not used for ideal conditions. Below should give you a more exacting way to do the plug checks: Plug checking proceedure for correct jetting: 1. Go to an open area where you have at least 200 yards of free space to ride in a straight line at wide open throttle. Install brand new plugs when you get into position. 2. Run through every gear at wide open throttle. 3. In 6th gear at wide open throttle, pull in the clutch handle, and hit the kill switch and stop. 4. Switch back to the old plugs and place the right plug in the right pocket and left plug in the left pocket. Ride back to the house or trailer. 5. When you get back to your garage, get a dremil tool with a cutting blade on it and cut at teh base of each plug near teh second thread from the base near the sealing washer. You want to cut it down through the metal only. There is a ceramic base underneath so be careful only to remove the meatl threaded portion only. 6. Finish cutting the second plug as well the same way. Look at teh band of coloration down at the point around the ceramic base. If it is black or oily , it is too rich. If it is tan, it indicates a very lean condition. It should be a light chocolate color for good jetting. I hope this more detailed proceedure helps.

My brand new Shee did that at higher altitudes until I dialed the jetting to where it needs to be at. Also if you are running 32:1 ratio rich fuel mixtures will cause that as well. My first experience with a Banshee caused me to be embarrased at teh dealership for following the owners manual when mixing fuel. Oh well stupid me. I bought one of the carb syncronizer tools shown on the Video section of the Banshee HQ forum and dialed the carbs in sync and got the fuel mixture and idle set perfectly. Wow how easy it was and wow what a difference. I checked the Banshee after running about 500 yards at full throttle and shutting off the key switch and on / off swith after depressing the clutch lever before it idled down. I took off my plugs and observed them and noticed that with each run and smaller jet at the higher altitudes I was at, the closer to a perfect setting I was at. I have read that I am to have a slight brownish coloration to the plug ends instead of black or oily appearance. i believe this is the correct color but I cannot be absolutely correct on this. Each year I usually re-check this and check my books for accuracy. No matter how many times I do these steps I allways re-check everything in the Manual. I would think that checking these things will or should eliminate the problems you mention. Other diagnostics besides your carb adjustments would include, overheating problems. If your Banshee is older then, have the radiater cap pressure checked. Try some Engine Ice in the radiater, or some Water Wetter additive. This should drop the high temps some. I would say that now you should have a good idea on where to start and get a feel of what symptoms you have. These tests and adjustments are not all inclusive but rather a starting point for a good go at it. The clymer manual has a few troubleshooting proceedures as well. There is a manual here on this site that you may reference as well. Good luck.

Go to the Banshee HQ video section and there is a video near the top that shows how to manually sync your carbs. Goos luck.

\If you want to really play it safe; Just have him list it as a buy it now auction and have him tell you when he will list it. Then you can catch it the minuite it is listed. Ive done this many times. The E-bay safety factor remains that way. Pay pal is secure but the Added effectiveness of the certified auction (buy it now feature) will ensure your assets are well insured.

Dude: If you checked all that stuff we all pitched at you and it still looks good and runs well. Get it home already! Once you get it home ....Then we can give you further advise. :biggrin: Get your horse trading over with first. You have joined an expert forum and club. If these guys cannot advise you properly then Hell no one can. Thier bikes here are monumental sacrifices of love for thier bikes and for the sport. Have fun Man.

Damn; I hope I made the right decision as these 916 pipes are going on my new Shee and will mostly be used up at higher altitudes up in the mountains. I really guess I wanted something different. The few I have seen videos of sound great and slightly different than the T-5 pipes on my other Shee. Who knows. I think that anything is better than the stock pipes on there now. I'm no Pro-racer any how. No where as near as beautiful as most of the Banshee masters bikes here on the HQ. Crap. One day Ill be the guy with a garage full of freshly shipped parts at tax time and will be dislaying all my cool new performance parts for all to drool at. He he I think that when our show and shine event happens this spring here in Denver area Ill try and dyno the same bike with T-5s and with the 916 and we will all just see what the differences are for sure.

what premix are you running? If it is like the book tells us at 32:1 then its too rich. Run it at 40:1

The nasty condition of the bike tells me that he never took care of it and now wants a good bike. Check the oil and Ill bet that its tar in the cases right now. MOST banshee owners take care of the bikes as we know what they are and we spend many bucks on the mods. But if that guy cant even wash it before he shows you what he has to trade then I would question and check everything. Take a compression tester with you even if its a cheap one. My two cents doesnt really matter. Your opinion and what you see matters the most. Be careful in your decision. It may be a really good trade if it is in good mechanical shape.

Thats bullshit I say....Price gouging. There is one brand new blue one on E-bay right now selling from a Yamaha dealership. Plus a brand new Yellow 2006 special edition Shee at the dealership in Peru Indiana. (Max Pitts Yamaha.) Why waste 1700 dollars for his high priced shit when you could just pay retail from these two dealerships. HHHHaaaaa !! Piss on that guy on Craigs List.

1886 Honda TRX 125 engine. Complete with electric starter CDI and pull start mechanism., new gaskets and oil seals through out. This engine has reverse as well. Great for a replacement or some go cart project for the kids. $150.00 plus shipping I have way more than that just in the gaskets and seals, engine & starter and CDI that I bought for it. Make me an offer. Note I replaced all the gaskets, but I have not ran it since then to check it out. I did use a Honda factory service manual to do the required maintenance. If I remember , I gave $140.00 or so just for the engine from E-bay a few years ago. It is polished up and clean as a showroom bike could be. I changed the sprocket out on it as it had a bad tooth on it at the time. The replacement sprocket is a good used one that I put on it. All the rest of the parts are "brand new Honda" replacement parts. There is not one speck of dirt on it. Ray (303) 451-7097

I would not ever let being blown away bother me not one bit. I ride for me. You are doing as I just did. T-5's, reeds, maybe a good carb syncronizing, maybe a good jet setting, maybe even a K&N air filter box and took the snorkel off to help it breath better. What else is there on a budget I ask? HHHHMMMMMMmmmmm I think that skid plates underneath ,maybe a feel good custom seat cover, rear fender supports ($20.00) if you have rear fenders, and maybe a set of new handlebars and grips would round it all out. I cant think of any other mods that I would do to mine until I blow up an engine or finally lose cylinder pressures and need a re-build.....Then its on ...Ill then sink some big cash into an engine, but not before then. I believe that if you are having fun and enjoying it, why mess with it and lose riding time. Wait until you need to work on it. Enjoy your Shee.

I bought a brand new 2006 yellow aniversary special Edition last year.....Right out of the crate and paid $6,440.00 for it. I didnt give a rats ass that I paid retail price for it either. Hell after the Yamaha financing the $139.00 per month is beer money for me. I had waited for 20 years to own one . I had an older used 1995 Banshee that I had traded for but to finally have a brand new one that wasnt all screwed up and messed with was worth it to me. I will not speak for everyone else whom all have really strong opinions: However, when I looked at my dream to finally own a brand new one and build it and modify it myself from a good base bike, it made my decision. Tell me where the bike is right now and Ill buy it sight unseen as I did with this one. If you dont want it I do. Ill save it for my 12 year old son when he is ready someday.

Even if you cannot tell who makes the pipes , Just take them off, clean the rust and grime off of them, re-paint them black, and put them back on for now. You will buy better pipes later on I would guess. Worry about getting your general Preventative maintenance done on her first. Chain, Carb cleaning, air filter box cleaning, grease points and a good top to bottom scrubbing and detailing. You will appreciate the Shee alot more afterwards. A clean bike is alot easier to maintain. Welcome to the BansheeHQ and have fun man.

I am now paid in full for the pipes and spark arrestors. Yeaaaaaassss. Whew Hoooo. Thanks again Tammy.

No matco for me thanks. :cool: