gregrob

Definitely. I was very dissapointed when that happened. Certainly relieved to find I didn't mess up the new cylinders, crank etc. Carb came out of the boot on the bottom and sucked a bunch of air. Jetting for the other side was a tad rich, piston looked perfect. Thing ran HARD before that happened though, I mean pulled like nothing I have ever been on/in. SOOO much fun! Kevin really does good work. Trying to find just one 795 series piston and get it here by Wednesday/Thus of this week. M&M only has sets of 2 on their site.

Yep, had about 2hrs on it. I'll get a pic of the spark plug tomorrow, it's custom.... Good news is I just have to order a piston and put it back together. Got off lucky, the bore cleaned up nicely without any gouges, we just honed it and the dome will take some work but I can clean it up too.

Stock swingarm? Those 10 paddles are killing you if so. Probably runs like a raped indian out of the hole like you said, but will have a lot of resistance on the top end. An 8 paddle on a stock stroke, stock swingarm seems to work good for me and is the MOST I would put on unless I or someone were really light, in really light sugar sand, then I might go to a 9 paddle. Try a few different tire / gear combinations if you're sure jetting is right and see what you think. Tires can make a huge difference.... JMO

You have to ask a lot more questions and provide more info on that IMO. Like what compression are you running, what elevation, what is the squish on your domes, what spark plugs are you running (heat range), etc, etc. I'd keep it around the +4 or +5 mark and watch for any signs of detonation. Then go from there.

I'll definitely be climbing with it. If the Tusk don't hold I'll do FZR plates with Barnett steels, don't really want to go to a lockout. Seems like it would be a lot harder to modulate the clutch in the technical stuff. I'm probably going to go +4 on the swingarm, at the most, but I need a better rear shock before I do.

Well cylinders, crank, pingel, top end kit, pancake, reeds, etc on their way back from Kevin. I want to give him a HUGE thank you for turning my motor around so fast. I'm glad we could work something out or I would have been screwed for memorial day riding haha! I hope to have it back together and tuned this coming weekend. Cost a pile, I just hope she runs good!

You need about 1500 bucks to do it right unless you plan on porting it yourself. Then take about 300 off. And that's just for the motor, not carbs, pipes, swingarm, etc. Porting 350 Crank 450 Domes 80 Top End Kit, bore, hone 300 Clutch 50 Pingel to feed it 90 if you have bigger carbs (which you should) Pancake 50 Seals, gaskets 50 I just built one and it all adds up

The lighter oil helps it shift easier, as well as the other benefits mentioned above. The gear oils everybody is running are too thick IMO.... Run either what the manual recommends (30wt) or a trans fluid. People run Type F because it's cheap. I'll be running Synthetic ATF, probably Dexron III in my new engine.

You probably have some crap in your right carb. See if you can shake the bike really hard from side to side and get it to fire w/out the choke. You ultimately need to pull the carbs off and clean them though. Make sure to fire some carb cleaner directly through your main jet and make sure there is no crap in there.

Not really normal for a stock bike. Do you have your timing advanced? Try backing it off a little and see what happens.

First of all, please check out this article so you know where I'm coming from: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Ok, how do you guys do it in the real world, and what have you found to work the best? My buddy (bigred) says to heat cycle it 2-3 times, then start riding it easy with 20:1 gas. Then after you run that tank out, mix @ your normal ratio, and ride it... He also said that one of his best running, longest lasting top ends came from warming it up, not even waiting for it to cool down, ripping up the street a few times then going straight to sand and laying into it. I'm kind of a fan of the latter method, not to abuse a brand new engine but because I have seen first hand that the rings need a load on them to seat properly. If they glaze over sitting there idling, you will never get the seal you could have once had... tell me what you think. Thanks, Greg

Clippard? Are those the same style Vito's sells? Thanks

I was gonna grab a set of Vito's for 25 each. Are there better ones? Like Dave Moore's but they are way too spendy for me. Thanks, Greg

Sold Pending Payment

I'd ask them what the tensile strength is. If it's not in the 6500+ psi range, or if they don't know, I'd pass... A chain is not somewhere you want to skimp, especially if you ride in sand or have upped the power of your machine, just too easy to take out the cases if it breaks, even with a saver....

Cool! I'm excited, just really hope I can get it together and tuned before memorial day.

Yeah going with the 4mil. We make a little less hp up here and the heavy duty tusk kits seem to hold up good. Will go lockout of I have to though.

Might not need it but I WANT it lol. From what I understand the long rod puts much less stress on the piston and rod because of the gentler angle on the stroke. I did specify to Kevin that I wanted the long rod crank, I'm sure he will take care of me either way.

I removed this from my PERFECTLY running 02. The bike had minor mods and had never been ridden detonating, etc. Engine internals were in beautiful shape when I split the cases, just removed this to go bigger. A drop in and go for your stock stroke bike if it's down. $150 obo + the ride. Shoot me a PM or email [email protected] Thanks, Greg

Well I got the cylinders shipped out to Kevin today. Split the cases and CLEANED them for hours to get them sparkly. My buddy ported the reed cages for me. That's all for now!

death trap...

You need to do a plug chop.

And some more here... http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?...albumId=1436672