gregrob

What are your mods? I've been wondering about this myself. What has a better power band and more HP. PT's or T-5's? Anyone?

So the air screws are ONLY for the pilot circuit? Starting and idling? I am rich in the mid range and have the needle on the next to top position, I was gonna play with the screws to see if it would help.

Just a wild guess here, but I'd say make the chain 1 inch shorter!!! JK Man. Do what he said ^^^

I've never had trouble duning straight paddles. Especially with mohawk fronts they turn pretty good. V's do slide and corner better, but straight paddles can still be plenty of fun!

x4

Cool. What kind of numbers you think it would throw down on a dyno with an "aggressive" dune port? It's always hard for me to guess being up here over a mile high would be 33pwks more than likely, with the 4mil and other mods in my sig

Thanks man. Don't I need 795 series pistons with a 4mm long rod?

Dammit!!!! Sorry, pic showed up yesterday. Here is a link http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/27797...083164471fwdtvc I've added the black and gray that you see.

Thanks for the input guys. I'll give you a call to discuss Jeff. Still figuring and making sure I'm gonna have the funds to go 4mil, but with me already getting porting, buying pistons, and bigger carbs, I figure this is the perfect time. Instead of doing everything twice, have the cyls setup for a 4mil, get 4mil pistons / domes, and be done with it.

Here's the crank I'm looking at http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...&search=4mm The one without the TZ bearing is 100 cheaper, are you guys running them right out of the box, or with the TZ bearing? Bear in mind I'm up here at 6-8K feet so I'll be making significantly less power than you dudes at sea level. Also it says "This crank is trued & welded inside and out". Is that something additional that cascade does, or is it just the standarh hot rods fare? Thanks a lot

They suck. My friend likes them on his YFZ, and they do ok traction wise but theyre just a really crappy tire and good luck getting them seated on the bead. I blew 2 of them up trying to seat them and finally just threw them away.

You need to call a reputable builder and send your cyls to them. They will bore them straight and supply you with the piston kit to match. Buy a clymer's manual and reinstall when you get the parts back. NBD

shocks shocks shocks shocks not cheap or free, but definitely make it a whole new animal. A -2 swinger as well if your mostly woods and play riding.

Ok, I want to do something to break up the blue on my bike a little. I'm going to strip the YAMAHA off the side plastic under the tank cover and am thinking about going with this color scheme. Here's a little sketch I threw together with ms paint. (got photoshop at home but not at work so it's crappy!). Let me know what you think.

With a 4mil you either need to have it ported (changes the port timing so the port floor and ceilings need expanded 2mm) and run offset/cut domes for a 4mil in your head OR You need to run a spacer plate under the cylinders. First option is the best though.

Then you get to got to cubs :woot:

You might not be able to paint it but you can always dye it the color you want. :thumbsup:

You should list how many paddles they have.

You should list how many paddles they have.

Route the hoses to the location of your choice, hack off the excess, and throw the coolant bottle in the trash...

I got a stock virgin head if your interested.

Who did the porting?

Also, the oil that the manual recommends is SAE 10W30 type SE motor oil and the tq on the drain plug is 14 ft/lbs :cool:

1.6qts per the manual. You can download the manual at the top of this forum. Check it out, good thing to have around. A Clymer's manual for the banshee is a good one to keep around too in print.