gregrob

Depends on the state, whether it's legal or not. Here in WY, you need a brake light, mirror and horn. Liability insurance as well, and it needs to be registered. Other states regs may vary, and most states don't allow atv's on the roads at all (unless for agricultural use w/in a certain range of the domicile). It's tough to "make" something that's not legal, street legal.

What are your mods?

UP Open to any and all offers!

You need to be doing the compression test holding the throttle wide open. Having the carbs off would probably work too though. Does the bike rev? If it won't rev make sure the parking brake isn't on. Also make sure nothing is stopping up your pipes. Where did you get them? There could be a birds nest or anything like that stopping them up. Do you get any smoke on startup? Equal from both sides? Are carb slides opening all the way?

Please put me on the list if this deal falls through. This is what I've been looking for.

Thanks, Is there a way to make the pic bigger?

Doesn't seem like you should be slipping the clutch at your power level. I would go with a new Tusk and all HD springs though. Should hold your motor.

CHECK THE COMPRESSION!!!!!!!!!!

Again I say, keep the 4mil crank and go the CHEETAH cylinders.

Nope, the 660's are rediculously slow. I can take one easily. Heck I let my buddy get halfway up the hill and can run him down and pass him. The 700's are a different story. With a programmer intake exhaust they are very fast. Add cams and a piston on top of that, and watch out!

Cool heads are fine, they just have to be installed properly. More banshees out there running the cool than running the stock one probably. I'd go with the NOSS piece. Little better design than the pro design cool head. Less O-rings, one piece design and uses stock studs. 2 into 1 pipes are more for mxer's who want ton of mid range but really choke you down on the top. If you plan on porting your bike I'd go with a set of T5's, if not a set of FMF fatties or T6's would work good for you.

I say CHEETAH!

OUCH! 60psi? Damn. Does it even still run? I would send your cylinders to a reputable builder and have them ported, also have him overbore you and put a new set of pistons in. Should be close to your 600 mark, or less and run much better!

That's what I'm putting on mine are ported stock cages, and boysen dual stage reeds. My buddy Jared runs these with good results (he also runs VF3's so this is not to say they're better, but definitely cheaper LOL). I would also like to see some pics of ported stockers. I plan on really going all out on mine and opening them up as much as I can. Just don't want to go too far.

I have a set of FMF's with gutted stock silencers for sale cheap. They sounded good on my bike.

I just unplugged the TORS on mine and haven't had any problems. I also got the TORS kit that had the idle screws and throttle cable. Adds some level of adjustability to the carbs and cleans up the whole area. Makes jetting much easier if you pull the carbs. The whole TORS get up went in the dumpster, carb tops included.

Well you got a good deal. Must have Pm'd him before me ?

No need to bump, I want them if no one bought them first via PM

I was wondering the same thing, why do you have an adjustable timing plate if you're going to leave it set at zero LOL. I would crank it up to +4 at least, that will help you get out of the hole a lot better. Also check to make sure the clearance is right on your magneto so you're getting the right spark.

Hi, are these the PJ series, or PWK? I'm assuming PJ since they are 34's ? Thanks, Greg

If no one has beat me to it consider them SOLD! Give me paypal info and I will send you payment immediately.

T-5's are a good pipe. I've got a set of FMF fattie golds for sale for cheap if you want to try something different than what you have.

Just get the ricky stator adjustable timing plate. They're only around 35 bucks. I have mine set at +5 right now and it runs great. At our elevation we can go a little more without fear of detonating. I only have 19cc domes too, so that helps. Definitely get a port job, and look for some 30-34 mm carbs (either 33pwk's or 34mm mikuni tm flat slides would do good) That's the setup I'm going with. I have everything done except the carbs and porting right now, can't wait to finish her up!

My buddy Jared uses them on all his bikes even his 10mil and they do a good job. I'm gonna throw one in mine, 3 heavy duty springs and 3 stock ones. If you are 4mil or higher I would use all the heavy duty springs to ensure a better grip of the clutches.

Don't do it IMO, too much trouble for a trail bike, and fuel doesn't last long enough. Do you want to get 10mins from the truck and run out of fuel? If I had a hardcore duner that I used for nothing else, I might consider it, or a drag bike I would definitely run it. but for the average guy the gains just aren't worth the headaches.