huskyohilux

The biggest worry if you don't plug them is that you'll have extra air coming into the intake causing the engine to run lean. I also have them on my 28's and i just put a tube between them both. My guess is that it's acually for seperate oil lubrication like on the RZ350.

Grind a bit off of the nut. Leave some though, so you can remove it for easy main jet access.

Pass on to the Mythbusters :thumbsup:

That's some funny schitt right there :biggrin:

If correctly jetted and air screw position, and still no idle you might wanna shorten the springs behind the idle screws

Bad ass truck man! Looks better with a solid front axle than IFS

There are some chinese knock-offs called OKO, check e-bay. They are basically keihin 28 pwk bored to 30 mms. Or you can probably get the keihins bored out if you are afraid of copies...have no experience on the OKO

Yeah, here too. btw got the piston and gaskets...will be up and running again soon! Thanks for the help

If that's the case, you can feel very welcome here :biggrin: If you have any questions about your new ride feel free to ask. So you have a pink banshee? Did somebody paint them plastics?

That's pretty funny :laugh:

When something seems to good to be true...it most likely is! My bet is on a geeky four eyed, pimple faced kid with no real-life friends But nobody is happier than me if I'm wrong :biggrin:

The stock boots can be cut to fit: http://www.duncanracing.com/techfaq/Instal...a-banshee.phtml You might also run into the fact that the left carb rubs on the clutch lever. You can either grind down a bit on the bottom drain bolt on the bowl, it can then still be removed for easy main jet access. Some people weld the hole shut...wouldn't do that. Or you can get the spacers to move the carbs back a bit.

Take the jugs to a machine shop. Hopefully a hone will be sufficient and you won't have to get OD pistons. Hone both cylinders and put new pistons in. The scratches on the cylinder wall probably came from a minor seizure...the engine got too hot maybe causing the electrode to melt? The loss of compression makes the bike to feel like it's lacking power Better find out what happened first so it doesn't happen again... Air leak, lean condition???

Always use new gaskets. The last thing you want on a 2 stroke is an air leak

Hopefully it

One of my front, stock, rims has taken a beating...giving it a bit of a side-to-side wobble. It doesn't disturb me when I'm on the bike, but it looks like shit when somebody else is riding it. Is it possible to give it a "knock" wit a bfh and hopefully improving it?

Found the episode on CMT, but NO banshee!!! Probably cut the hell out of that episode http://www.cmt.com/videos/shows/cmt-cribs/...html?id=1602672

:yelrotflmao: niiice!

The japanese engineeres always know best. Follow the manual :thumbsup:

210 mains, huh? If I'm not mistaking 220's are stock on banshee and 240's on the RD. With pipes you should be closer to 300. Maybe a little less on your elevation. You might also wanna take a look at the pilot. I guess 25 or 27,5 should do it. Get rid of the air box and get some pod filters instead. Makes it a lot easier to remove the carburetors, unless you ride a lot of mud or water that is. Also take a look at the reed valves, make sure they close properly and syncronise the carbs. Float heighth is between 15 and 17 mms. Where are you from Klaus, Germany? 20-35 celsius sound like middle east :cool:

Material- and welding inspector, including certifing welders according to standards. Do some importing/exporting (auto parts from USA to Europe) and welding on my spare time

Why did you choose the mikuni TM28 instead of the keihin pwk

I hear you :sad: will be riding a couple of more times this winter and then let it sit until late spring. Maybe I'll dig into the lower end if I decide to go back to the ported jugs again. Otherwise it felt really good today. Found this awsome place in a military area were troops practice urban combat. Like a deserted town...nice grabble roads all around :biggrin:

Found this thread: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=49835&hl= seems like a fairly easy thing to fabricate...

The guy who bored the cylinders checked the ring end gap, so that should have been OK. I'll let him do it again after the hone. Yeah, he said something about using some acid to clean the jugs before honing, I'll let him do that when I decide to go back to them cylinders. I just put the stock jugs in and it ran good enough, for the wet winter roads atleast :cool: Regarding the leak down test, I've seen it in some posts but never really got around to learn about it. Gonna do a serch and see what I can find...agree that 10 hours is crazy and even worse I guess this seize was only 2 hours in The crank is as is, haven't done anything to it I'm kinda of my own overhere so I learn as I go...I really don't wanna split the cases unless I 100% need to.