huskyohilux

Banshee cylinders are not nickel plated. They are steel, just re-bore and hone as you would a regular engine block from a car. Most new dirt bikes have nickle plated aluminum cylinders, but banshees don't :thumbsup:

Removed the top-end and just like I suspected, a small seize on the right piston. Only two scratches on the side of the piston, say 2 and 5 o'clock when pointing forward. The cylinder wall seems to have made it with just some aluminium residue bashed on it. A simple hone will get rid of that. The lefts side is good to go. Since the pistons only had a couple of hours and no boring is necessary, I'll only need to replace one piston, right? I also think I found the casue of the seize...when I fastened the intake rubbers and reed cages them bolts were a tad to long. They came from the reed spacers I had with the 35's last season. So apparently they didn't fasten enough causing minor air leaks from the intake. The right cylinder had cracks from the bottom of the threaded holes showing the bolt wanted to go further in. In the mean time I've already mounted my stock jugs and pistons, they were in awsome shape. So I'll be able to hit some grabble raods this weekend :biggrin: Thanks for the help, guys edit: is it standard protocol to move the needle when it's colder weather to richen the middle as well? I've already bumped up the jets.

Yes ofcourse it's the 2-stroke oil :biggrin: Will remove the cylinder head and inspect the damage

Jepp, something will probably turn up...don't wanna try anything risky though... DVD players usually just take some code w/ the remote and you're good to go

That makes sence...gonna start by peeping throgh the exhast and intake ports to get an idea of where I'm at. Ofcourse it's stupid to wait until the cylinders need to be rebored if I can save them now and only get new pistons that's a whole lot better :thumbsup: And you're right about me worrying rather than enjoying... :sweat:

One of the cars that got the most of my attention at sema was this concept of the new model... Top of the line :biggrin: Hopefully they'll be reality soon

Other gizmos like cordless phones, TV transmitters or other stuff that use 2,4 GHz can disrupt the WiFi signal... At first I couldn't get online with mine or find the laptop to stream data from that. I switched off the TV transmitter that sends the sat-TV to the second floor and it worked perfectly. It's a cool feature to stream movies, mp3s or pictures from a computer. Just download TVersity and then you're on! Divx movies work kinda slow though, atleast on mine. oh BTW does anybody know if the PS3 can be tricked to play all regions blu-ray? Ordered Point Break with region A from the US, but my console is region B (europe)...gotta be able to play one of my favourite movies

The pistons from the picture are the ones I busted this summer with my stock carbs. They had maybe 10 hours on 'em. I haven't had the guts to remove the cylinders yet to inspect the damage from the other day...gonna wait 'til it doesn't start anymore. From the beginning, when I baught the bike, it had the keihin 35 mms and I ran 1:20 with 95 octane. It ran a bit too rich but on the other hand the pistons and cylinders looked great after 30-40 hours. These days I run 1:32 with shell v-power 99 octane (not sure if you have the same octane rating in USA). It doesn't smoke much, hardly at all, once it's warmed up. I'm 100% certain that the bike is hot enough when I get on it and I believe I have no air leaks. The plugs look great. Gonna mix 1:20 from now on just to be on the safe side (it sais 1:20 in the Yamaha manua, right?) I think one problem is when I back down on the throttle the lubrication isn't enough...maybe I'll lower the needle clips to richen the middle...?

I haven't been riding much this fall due to really bad weather, but the last couple of days it's been irresitible to take out the shee! It's still winter here in southern Sweden but 45F , semi wet streets and sunny :biggrin: This past summer I really fried my pistons; http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...hl=seized+again Since then I've baught the pwk 28

If you can see that the slides open unevenly start by syncing them. They MUST open simultaneously. Get a sync tool from FAST. I sync mine bye eye but it'll only get them close not 100%. And get rid of the TORS system!

Check with hall's cycles: https://www.halls-cycles.com/ I guess the WR 250 has the same piston as the CR 250 model, shouldn't be a problem to find. I even think wiseco makes new pistons for those. I've got the cr430 and cr500 and w

Except the anoing noise the kick lever will wear some on the trans cover. Maybe take the paint away and some material off the cast aluminium as well. No big deal, though...but since it's so cheap and easy to fix it, just buy a rebild kit. Or take it apart and replace the o-ring if you have one laying around.

FAST sells replacement springs for the PWK, haven't tried them though... Other than that you can either cut them like the other guys said or weaken them by carfully grind a bit to thinnen them.

Got the same port on my cylinders from HJR. Started with the 35 mm PWK's, ran great but sucked fuel! Then tried the stockers, also ran good enough. Ended up with the 28 mm PWK's and LOVE the bike now :biggrin: No notable performance difference compared to the 35's. You can use the stock 'TORS removed' throttle cable with the Keihins!

It'll look really good on a black shirt! But I get the feeling it's 'cut off' on the right side by the front wheel and the sand rounding the shee. Is it suppose to be like that? Other than that, really nice :thumbsup:

Find the model no. and google it. Should be on the side, down by the bowl

From my experience, buying parts in Europe everything is 2-3 times more expensive here than in the US. I haven

I guess fuel only goes bad if moisture get

1:32 is a good mixture. That's what most people run, I guess It

Just plug them -> put a hose between both vents

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73599 it

I've shown this before but it's still worth sharing... Sparkplug holder/coolant holder 100% home made

First get some information and data regarding port heights and port duration times. Use a digital vernier to measue with. Clean up the intake and concentrate on the boost ports. They make for a better middle range. Take some of the exhaust port, for greater top power.

The size inclination of the pistons is 0.25 mms If you

IMO it would idle if it starts easy even with wrong pilot. If it idles when you apply just a little throttle make sure the idle screw is all the way in. They are crappy plastic so you might wanna remove the cap to unload the stiff spring...There's also a small spring on the idle screw as well. If I recall correctly, I cut mine a bit to get the screws in longer