bansheesandrider

By manufacturer I hope you mean Wiseco, HotRods or whoever made the crank and not some local yokel who is misinformed!

Looks to me like it is a Trinity Stage IV Cheetah power valve motor.

Have the guy that is selling it, the original owner, apply for a lost title before he sells it. Once he gets a title, transfer it to the new owner like normal.

In my opinion, the only time you don't want an O- or X-ring chain is when you are racing(drag or other) and are trying to get maximum power out of the bike. It takes more power to turn a sealed chain than it does a non-sealed chain. As far as brands or grades,the more you spend the better the chain is so spend as much as you are comfortable with. One other thing I recommend is not to run an aluminum rear sprocket unless you are racing as they don't last very long. If you want to never buy another chain and sprocket buy the Sidewinder titanium alloy set, but they are VERY expensive. They also have less expensive grades and I have never heard anybody complain about their quality. Also, I did not have very good luck with RK chain but I was also using aluminum rear sprockets with it so that might have been part of the problem.

The O-rings are to keep the bearings from spinning in the cases, therefore you want the tightest squeeze possible. This is going to come from not maching a groove in the case, the O-rings will simply be squeezed down when the case bolts and nuts are tightened. The aftermarket bearings are the same size as OEM, they just don't have the stopper pins to keep the bearings from spinning. I don't see how the O-ring would be squeezed tighter if 1/2 is in a groove in the case instead of squished flat in the bearing bore.

Ionly use wisecos, in over 30 years of motorcycles and ATVs I have never had one fail that was the pistons fault. As far as where to get them, I usually get them from whoever i am having bore the cylinders, that way they match the bores and everything works.

Did you get the float bowl back on the correct carbs? The left one is different from the right one because of the way the choke works. Also make sure the rubber hose between the two carbs for the choke is on, it is directly inline with the choke knob between the carbs.

I used to run GearSaver in my Banshee, then I tried the Honda gear oil because my dealer was out of Belray. The Honda oil sucked in my Banshee, I just have a ground star. Then another shop recomended the Klotz MTL gear oil(part#KL506) so I tried that. It made my Banshee shift much better than anything else so that is what I have been running for the last 15 years in all my quads. I also use the Klotz R50 for the last 14 years in my premix. Before that I used Klotz Benol, but I had problems with carbon buildup in the rings on the wife's bike, so I switched to R50 and have had no problems since.

The stock airbox is better for wet conditions but the stock air box is bad for not getting the filter to seal to it properly because the lid is what holds the filter in place and it may not locate it in properly when you put it on. The solution for this is the Pro Design Pro Flow adapter or one of the copycats of this product. Install it ,clamp the filter to it, modify the lid per the instructions and your set. Then when it is dry out you can remove the lid for more power, K&N or Outerwears also makes a cover for the airbox that replaces the lid and it is supposed to be waterproof so the filter is protected from splashes-if you are crossing creeks or ponds and the water gets over the airbox you will still drowned out, but you would anyway. If your riding has only shallow water crossings, I would use the airbox with no lid , The Pro Design adapter, the Outerwears lid replacement and a GOOD FILTER for your type of riding conditions and you should be set, with decent power.

I use the DID X ring for riding in the dunes. It is the next step up in quality from the DID o ring chain that Yamaha puts on the bike . The correct size for a stock swingarm and stock gearing is 520X104 links. If you have a different swingarm or gearing it will change, if you are all stock and your old chain is only 103 links long, somebody has shortened your chain because it is wore out.

Use the proper washer and nut. Use Loctite and torque the nut to the correct spec WITH A QUALITY TORQUE WRENCH and you should never have problems with the nut comming off. Guys that use an impact wrench don't really know how tight they are getting the nut, sometimes it is not tight enough and sometimes it is overtightened and damages the nut and/or the crank.

Put a round housing swingarm on the bike you have , get some better shocks, and put pipes on it. Hell, you could even just install a aftermarket tapered bearing carrier, the swingarm is the same. Tear it down, clean up everything, polish, paint and chrome what you want, replace anything that is wore and you have a bike that is better than new. The only things that are better about a newer bike are the improved axle carrier mounting, better shocks(but not as good as aftermarket), and possibly A-arms instead of J-arms. You could convert your frame to A-arms or just purchase some good aftermarket J-arms. You have a stock bike that you now the history of, why would you want to buy a modded bike that has had the crap ran out of it, possibly been wrecked and you have no idea how it has been maintained. When it comes to Banshees the year does not make a whole lot of difference. Some of the newer bike improvements were a downgrade- big ugly brake light, park brake rev limiter, Granny gear(foot guards).I have always thought it was better to upgrade my stock bike with the aftermarket parts I want than it was to buy somebody elses modded out pile, unless you find something that is setup EXACTLY like you want and can buy it DIRT CHEAP so you will have spare cash to fix the problems that will surely arise- remember, nothing looks as good when you get it home. Good luck.

I am guessing here but I would try 290-300 mains, 27.5 pilots, adjust the mixture screws for the highest idle speed and then adjust the idle speed screws for the proper idle speed. Does it still have the TORS system? If so unhook it by unplugging the wires on yhe black box on the left side of the frame under the gas tank, unplug the wires going to the tops of both carbs and also the thumb throttle on the bars. This will disable the system, if you want to remove it completely you will have to drill and tap the carbs for idle screws and get new carb tops and a throttle cable- it is available in a kit. Since it is a 94, it should not have the park brake rev limiter. Also, make sure you don't have any air leaks. Good luck.

I lube all my cables on the quads with a product called Tri- Flow, it comes in an orange and black spray can. It is a teflon based lube so sand doesn't stick ti it once the initial spray dries. Most automotive departments carry it, usually by the WD40. I unhook the cables and flush the gunk out with a luber tool and the Tri-Flow. It does seem to make a big difference in how hard the clutch pulls.

If my crank had opened up that much and I had the engine apart, I would tear the crank apart and inspect EVERYTHING, maybe throw some rod kits at it and have it trued and welded. When a crank lets go, it can fuck up alot of costly parts. If you don't have the equipment to press it apart and back together, get it phased correctly and true before you weld it, you should send it to a rebuilder or buy a rebuilt or new one already trued and welded. Sometimes it is hard to spend money when you think you can do it yourself, but if you deal with reputable people, you get what you pay for- a solid crank that will last for a long time and not fuck up the rest of your engine.

If you have the stock A arms, do not powdercoat them. They have a plastic bushing in the ball joint that will MELT in the powdercoat oven when they are baked, I have heard that you can coat them and then bake the arm with a heat lamp so the ball joint doesn't get to hot, but I don't know anybody who has done it that way. There was a thread on here about a week ago or so from somebody that coated stock arms and now he wanted to know how to fix his ball joints. You can chrome the stock arms without hurting anything, but I think it is a waste of money to chrome arms that are half wore out in the ball joints. Therefore I would buy brand new ones to have chromed. However you can buy aftermarket arms with replaceable ball joint for less money than the stockers cost. Then you can either powdercoat or chrome them and replace the ball joints when they wear out. You can powdercoat anything on the bike that can handle the heat of being baked in the oven after the powder is blown on the part. How ever the axle may peel or chip because it is subjected to so much abuse and stress. You should also give thought to your color choices because you might want to touch up any nicks, chips, or scratches with some paint before you have to take it apart again to repwdercoat.

Anybody else know about the shift forks? Anybody try the transmission bearing kit from The Scooter Shop?

Run the Klotz at 40:1, I use klotz in my engine and have NEVER lost an engine. My current top end has 5+ years on it and has lost about 15 pounds of compression from the 180 I started with. I ran Yamalube and lost a crank and had problems with plugs fouling. The motor was stock when I an Yamalube and is a fairly built 350 running on Klotz. I also recommend their KL506 trans oil, since I went to it my bike shifts much better and there is no longer a metallic look to the oil when I change it.

Anybody else have an opinion? It is tied up 1 to 1 right now.

Who has the better stainless steel bolt kit for the complete bike? I have been looking at both AlloyBoltz and fastnerguy on Ebay but I don't know who's is better. I want one stop shopping so I don't have to make several trips to the hardware store that is 15 miles away.

The online pictures don't even show the rollers to go on the forks, I don't know if they were available seperately. The numbers are going to have to come from a original micrfiche, probably from the 80s or early 90s.

Nope, that is the superceded number, that is the currently available part that is the same as a Banshee, the other current part number is2GU-18511-00-00 for the other fork. It takes two of one number and one of the other number, I don't remember which way it is. Also, I looked at The Scooter Shop website and could not see any there, but they have an interesting bearins set for the transmission. Has anybody tried it and are they a decent place to deal with? As I understand it, they are in Australia, how long does shipping take and what does it cost?

If it was from the flywheel/stator it would do it EVERY REVOLUTION IN THE SAME PLACE not every 2.75 revolutions. The 2.75 revolutions is what tells me it was the primary gears.

Sounds like something is binding in the primary drive= between the crank gear and the clutch basket gear. It could be a damaged tooth on the clutch basket gear or the clutch basket could be wobbling because somrthing is not put together correct or the transmission mainshaft is bent. Did you wedge something between the gears to loosen the nuts on the varius shafts, this could have damaged a gear tooth? It should definetely turn smooth, also the ratio between the crank and clutch basket is somewhere between 2.68 and 2.75. Since it occurs about every 2.75 turns, that tells me that every time the clutch basket gets in the same position it is binding up- turn it until it binds and then mark the teeth on the basket that are touching the crank gear, remove the basket and inspect the teeth that you marked.

Bump