bansheesandrider

If it still leaks, check the o-ring on the outside of the seat. It seals the seat to the carb body. When mine did this, I replaced the o-ring and it stopped the leak. I always turn the gas off when the bike is shut off for longer than 15 minutes, so that it doesn't leak on the ground or into the cylinders.

I tried to make a Vapor work on my Banshee and never got it to work, I even took it to Trail Tech and they couldn't get it to work either. When the water temp was below 100 degrees and i revved above 7000 the thing would do a full reset. Trail Tech tried hooking it up every way they knew of, they replaced all of the wiring and sensors and even the computer itself, but nothing worked. I had BR8ES plugs in it. I took it to them twice and between times I rode the bike and determined that reading the tach while riding was very difficult. When I took it to them the second time, I told them I didn't care about the tach, I just didn't want the thing to keep resetting. So they recommended I get the Vector model. I agreed to it and they GAVE me a Vector and let me keep the Vapor along with the spare sensors and wiring and one of their wire connector kits with a crimper. I am very happy with the Vector, since I mainly wanted to know temp., speed, and keep track of hours for maintainence. I found while riding the bike, you don't have time to watch the trail, tach, and shift lights, and you just end up shifting by feel/ear like I did without the tach. Since I still have the Vapor, I might try it on my wife's bike if I ever get time to put it on. Good luck.

It appears Yamaha has discontinued the RZ forks, if you look up "Shift Fork 1" it is now the same part number for both. "Shift Fork 2" has different numbers for each and the shift cam has a different number, probably because it has the pin for the Neutral Switch on the RZ.

I have been running R50 at 40:1 for the last 15 years in all my 2 strokes, except the kids Blaster which I just took the injector off of. I have had zero problems with my motors running it. The top ends seem to last forever and when I pull the cylinders off, the crank has a good film of oil all over it. I used to run Benol, but had problems with carbon buildup in the rings on the wife's old Blaster. The R50 smells just fine to me, although that should be the last reason for choosing an oil, and I have found the brand and type of fuel makes a bigger difference in smell. The R 50 seems to burn clean with very little smoke. Just my 2 cents.

2002. I responded to this in your first post in the other catergory.

Cascade has it under part number RS-CA. I am not positive, but if you look it up online on an OEM parts website it should be the one listed for a "purplish white" bike, because Yamaha doesn't call out the color of the part, they go by bike color. Also make sure you are looking for a normal 2005 Banshee, not under the Special Edition Banshee.

You just need a cable from Motion Pro to hook up the thumb throttle to the caps that are currently on the carbs, the Motion Pro part number is 01-0813. Hope this helps.

1990 model Banshees did not have brake lights, Yamaha added those on the 2002 model.Are you sure the wires are coming from the master cylinder and not from the thumb throttle? If they are from the throttle, they are for the TORS system. If they are from the master cylinder, then somebody swapped on a later Master cylinder. Either way, I wouldn't hook them up. You have to have the large tail light to have brake lights, it is almost 3 inches high and over 4 inches wide. If your tail light is about 1.5 inches high and about 3 inchees wide, you have the small one and no brake lights. Hope this helps.

I bought a Vapor two years ago and had problems with it right away. If the bike was below 100 degrees and I reved the motor above seven grand, it would do a complete reset. As Trail Tech is only an hour away, I took the bike to them and they tried to figure it out- they gave me a new temp. sensor and sent me home. I changed the sensor and tried it out- the first day it was OK, but when I rechecked it the next day, it did it again. I also found it was very hard to watch the tach and the trail when riding. I took the bike bach to Trail Tech again and they worked on it some more. I told them I did not need the tach so they suggested I try their Vector model. We put this on at Trail Tech and it worked flawlessly. They ended up GIVING me a Vector, a temp. sensor, and new power and tach wires, and their wiring connector kit with crimpers, and I kept all of my original Vapor stuff. I have had the Vector on my bike ever since and had no problems, even the plastic clamp for the handlebar mount is holding up, however we only ride sand dunes. I used the magnetic bolt that comes with it and have had no problems with it either. The display does not like being parked in the hot sun, but once it cools off it returns to normal and it has never been a problem while riding. I primarily wanted it for the temp. , speedo/odometer and hourmeter functions.It is neat to see how many RPM's you are turning, but it is too hard to watch it on the trail- if you don't need a tach, I would get the Vector. Several threads on here said you need to use a BR8ES plug to solve the problem I had with the Vapor, but I tried that and it did not help it.I also tried all the methods in the book of picking up a tach signal and a couple that Trail Tech suggested, but none of them helped. Since I have everything to hookup the Vapor still, I am going to try it on my wife's Banshee someday. I am very happy with Trail Tech's custumer service and I think the Vector is a great product. As far as I am concerned, the jury is still out on the Vapor because we never figured out if the problem was my bike or the Vapor. Good Luck.

Worked on it last night and got it dialed in here in the field at home. I will have to recheck it when we get to the dunes. I ended up with a 35 pilot and a 330 main, clip in the middle of the stock needle,1.75 turns on the air screw. I would like to thank everybody for their "information".

First, I did not get my block off kit from TM Designworks. Second, I have ran my Banshees (3 different ones including an 89 that I bought brand new 20 years ago and still have) at 40:1 with absolutely no problems. The 89 currently has 7 years on the top end and is 20 pounds lower on compression from the 180 that it had when I put it together. When I had the cylinders off the last time, the bottom end had plenty of lubrication. When I had a Blaster for my wife, I also ran it at 40:1 with R50 and had no problems. I did pay somebody to do the topend and jet it after it blew up running some other oil at 32:1. After they did the topend and jetted it I never had a problem with until we sold it to put her on a Banshee. I will just have to jet this one the old fashioned way by reading the plugs and changing the jets accordingly. Like I said, I was just hoping to save some time when we get to the dunes so we could ride instead of wrench.

IT will run just fine on 40:1 once it is jetted for it, that is nwhat my Banshees run on and that is what the old Blaster i had for my wife years ago ran on.If I went to 32:1 it would lean it even more than 40:1 as there is less gas in a 32:1 mix than there is a 40:1 mix. The reason I am doing this is so all bikes take the same fuel and I wont have three different types sitting around to get confused. Go back and read what I said about where the oil is injected and learn how a carb works. If you didn't rejet, you where either rich with the injector on it or lean with it off.

You don't get jets with the kit because they don't know what size you need.Your pipe,reeds,fuel mix and other mods affect your jetting. All my local shops say yes, it needs to be rejetted but they don't know what size jets because they don't do that many Blasters. I have taken the pump off and riding it in the field at home it is way lean, the plug is white and it runs like crap. It was perfect before I removed the injector and that is the only thing that changed.And, yes, I plugged the fitting on the carb properly.

WTF are you talking about? Look where the tube for the oil goes in the carb- it's in the venturi. The oil from the injector NEVER goes through the float bowl or the jets, so YES, when you take the injector off and start using premix you DO need to richen your jetting to compensate for the reasons I listed. You need to review Carbs 101 and learn the physics of how a carb works. I also know you can't run an air cooled Blaster as lean as you can a liquid cooled Banshee. I was just hoping someone on here had a similar setup and could get me close.

Your right, the injector does not affect jetting. But when you take it off and start using premix, some of the volume of fuel flowing through the carb jets is now taken up by oil. Therefore you have to increase your jet size so you get the same amount of gas plus the amount of oil flowing through the jet. I know there are formulas to figure this out, but I don't have them. Everybody that knows what they are doing says you need to richen it up when you pull the injector pump, they just can't tell me how much. I know I can start doing plug chops and dial it in, but our family time on the sand has been severely limited due to the economy and I wanted to be fairly close when we get there so we don't waste a trip doing nothing but jetting.

Rim size will not lower your center of gravity, a shorter overall height nof your tire will lower your center of gravity. Smaller wheels with the same diameter tires will give you more "cushion" because the bigger sidewall will have more give.

I am going to DC both my Banshees, I know how to float the ground and wire it up using the RS rectifier. But with the reputation of RS on here, I would rather use something better. Exactly what are you using for a rectifier, what is it off of? How many wires does it have and how do you wire it up?

Don't waste your money, T4s are complete garbage. Toomey made them for less than a year, when they came out with the T5, they had a standing offer to exchange T4s for T5s for like $150 or something.

If you are riding in sand and want your chain to last, definetly get a sealed chain( O or X ring). If you want to be fast and dont care how long your chain lasts, get a non O ring. Usually, the more you spend, the better the chain. I have been using the DID X ring, it seems to hold up the best of the reasonably priced chains and DID was the original supplier to Yamaha.

Keep your Blaster, it is a 2 stroke and it's light weight make it a fun bike to ride. Warriors are big heavy turds and they are gutless plus they are a workout to ride. I would much rather ride a Blaster. A brand new Blaster sold for 2899 in 1998 here in Oregon, that is what I paid for my kid's that I still have and the buyers guides at that time said 2999.

While I have not personally used the Clymers manual for the Banshee, EVERY OTHER machine I have worked on in my 25 years as a professional mechanic, whether ATV, farm equipment, industrial equipment, cars and pickups or forklifts, the OEM manual has been better. The downfall of an OEM manual is the price, that is probably why all these guys recomend the Clymers, it's your choice.

340s seem awful big to me for this combo. If the plugs are black, you are either mixing to much oil with your gas, or more likely, you are running rich. Start decreasing you main jet one step at a time and doing a plug chop till the plugs are tan in color. Good Luck.

I am going to remove the oil injector on my kid's 98 Blaster and run Klotz R50 at 40:1 like I do in the Banshees. It has a FMF Fatty pipe and a K&N filter in the stock air box with the snorkel removed and is currently jetted with a 260 main and 32.5 pilot. Does any body know what I need to increase them to?

Pull your cylinders off and check your piston to cylinder clearance, if it is within specs. put a set of rings in it. More than likely, the clearance will be too much, and you will need to bore it, put in new pistons and rings. Make sure you buy quality parts, buying cheap stuff now will cost you more later, Also, make sure whoever bores it knows what they are doing. Good luck.