bansheesandrider

I had contacted these guys when I was looking for connectors and their reply said they were not compatible with OEM connectors so I did not pursue them further. I had thought that they probably had some little tab or notch so they wouldn't work. I did think about ordering some just to see but didn't. Has somebody actually odered and used them with the OEM connectors?

Did you damage the bearing when you installed it? Is there dirt in the bearing preventing it from turning? How easily does the shaft turn in the bearing? I highly recomend a billet impeller since the plastic one is notorious for failing, if I was buying a billet impeller, I would go with the Mull Engineering unit that presses on the stock shaft because I have seen several ProDesign impellers that were heavily grooved by the seal. You could probably put a drop of Loctite Bearing Mount on the shaft before you install it, but that will make it VERY difficult to get apart, once it sets up the shaft should be tight in the bearing.

Do away with the TORS System, you can getrid of it and keep the thumb throttle if you want. If you take the TORS off it is much easier to work on the carbs when you need to, and you won't have to worry about it causing problems down the road.

I worked for a Hyster forklift dealer until last March and we had far fewer problems with the Deutsch connectors than we did the weatherpack connectors. The Deutsch connectors are rated for more amperage and less voltage drop than the weatherpacks. The only time we saw a failure with Deutsch connectors was melting in a fire, or if they got damaged from crushing or abrasion. We had weatherpacks failing contiuosly because they couldn't carry the load or were getting contaminated. I would recomend dielectric grease on any connector including Deutsch just because it makes getting them apart easier.

From what I know about the MSD setup, you need to use the complete system. The drawback to it on a trail bike is that it is battery powered and the battery only lasts about two hours, so you would have to have a charger and one or two spare batteries. I think MSD made it for race guys at a track, not for going out trail riding. You can get the Nology coil from FAST, he is a site sponsor on here. You can get the DYNA coil from DYNA Technologies or on Ebay, there is a seller named ATV Galaxy that normally has one listed.

I guess I didn't clearly state my point- your money and time would be better spent on a high output coil instead of a stator mod that might burn up a CDI box.

Go to a good hardware store and buy a 8mmX1.25 acrn nut or buy 10 so they match.

20X10X10 would be ideal but you can fudge an inch either way on the width and overall diameter.

I use a pair of large 90 degree snap ring pliers. Just put the tips in opposite corners of the hex, squeeze the pliers and turn it. You will get it plenty tight this way. And yes there is a collar that goes on before the lower nut and washer that the lower seal rides on. As far as I know you can only get it from Yamaha or someone that sells OEM parts.

Just shift without the clutch and hold your beverage between your knees when you need the clutch. If you are getting dehydrated then maybe you should put your liquid refreshment in a hydration pack with a siphon tube.

I tried awhile back to find compatible terminals and connectors to build my own harness, but I could not find a source for them. I even tried talking to several vendors of aftermarket parts like stators, etc. and came up with nothing. I finally decided that if I was going to do it that I would convert everything over to Deutsch connectors. There are several sources for these- MSD, Ladd Industries, several sellers on Ebay, and most good auto parts stores can get them. They are liquid proof, dirt proof, sealed, easy to work with, and come in many configurations. They also lock together so they won't vibrate apart while riding. They make terminals that can be crimped with regular crimpers, or you can get the really good terminals that take their special crimpers. If you changed the connectors on the electrical components before you build the harness you can compensate for the wire you cut off the component when you build the harness After I built the harness, I figured that I would just need to carry a few terminals with me and then I could use a CDI box or switch or stator from any year Banshee to fix mine when it broke. Just cut the factory connector off the replacement part, crimp on the Deutsch terminals, disassemble the connector on the defective part and install it on the replacement part. If you find a source for the connectors that are an exact match for the OEM Yamaha connectors, be sure to post it so we all can benefit. Good luck.

I don't know that beefing the ignition windings in the stator will actually increase the spark because there is no direct connection between the stator and the coil- everything goes from the stator to the CDI box and then the CDI box sends a signal to the coil. I think that regardless of how much power the CDI box "sees" from the stator, it sends the same signal based on RPM to the coil. If you want a hotter spark you need to get a better COIL, either the Nology unit or the Dyna coil or possibly the MSD setup.

The ones I got off Ebay were polished billet with a set screw to hold them on. I haven't put them on yet as they are going on my reframe project. The guy doesn't always have them on there but I think when he sells a set, he has to make another set and as soon as he does he lists them so keep checking back. Although he appears to be a small time ooperation the quality is first rate.

As bad as his sounds I thought the "rev and drop" method was not a good idea- the bike might take off and run into something or wheely and throw him off. But hey, it's his ass and property hopefully.

I would recomend talking to the company that is actually going to blow and bake the powder. Alot of "bike"shops say they are doing it but they are actually sending it to someone else and marking up the price to get their cut. Also, you have to be careful about podercoating the stock A-arms because the have a plastic bushing in the ball joint that will melt in the powdercoat oven. Some guys say it can be done with a heat lamp so the ball joint doesn't get too hot, but I have no expierence with this.

The stock pilot jet is a 25, the next bigger is 27.5 and then 30. Depending on what setup- pipes, filters reeds, compression- you can use a 27.5, a 30, or possible even bigger.

Sounds like your clutch plates are stuck together from sitting so long. The best thing to do is pull the clutch cover and the pressure plate off, pull out each clutch plate individually and inspect them. If they are OK, soak them in whatever oil you use in your transmission and then put it back together, adjust your actuator(the screw in the middle of the pressure plate) and cable and you should be good.

There is a guy on Ebay that sells them, I don't remember his name. Just search for "Banshee polished" or "Banshee billet".

Also check your stator- put an ohm meter on the wires per yhe manual or search on here for the specs. The stator has 2 seperate circuits. one for the lights and one for the ignition. So your lights can still come on when kicking it but the ignition side can be bad.

As far as the cluych pull is concerned, it sounds like you welded the ball to the push rod. Pull your clutch apart and look for a ball on either the center of the clutch pressure plate or inside the shaft the clutch rides on. Hopefully the ball will come out freely and not be attached to the pushrod behind it. If it is stuck to the pushrod inside the transmission shaft and you can't get the push rod out of the shaft you may have to split the center cases. As for it not shifting look at the shift shaft thar is behind the clutch basket, below and to the rear. See if the hooks on the shift shaft are engaging the pins on the shift star- move the shifter to see if the star rotates llike it should- there is a eccentric screw to adjust the hoohs so they are equal distance from the pins. If the star/drum is rotating then you have a bad shift fork and will have to split the cases for this also. I would get a manual to walk you through all of this if you don't have one.

It wont turn worth a damn, with two SOLID axles on it it is going to want topush the front end straight ahead. If you add tracks it is going to be even worse. If you are going to do this, I would adapt a swingarm and differential off a utility bike so you can have each side on the rear turn at different speeds so you could turn.

Take them to a shop and have them bore them till they clean up, if it cleans up at 65.5, great. If it doesn't, the you will be at 66. Get the right pistons for whatever the bore ends up at and put it together. Run it till it gets weak again and then tear it down and figure out what you want- you can have the stock sleeves cut out and new sleeves put in, or you can get different cylinders, either stock, cub, powervalve or what ever you want. I am not positive about this, but I believe if you resleeve the stock cylinders, you can then go over .100 safely, because the new sleeve is thicker than the original and will disapate heat much better. Like I said, I am not sure about this, so if anybody knows otherwise please respond.

.080 over is 66mm, correct?

I like to support the site, but I also like to deal local. Since I am across the river and over the hill in North Plains, OR, I will probably go with you Alf if I decide on a ModQuad. Right now I am still trying to decide what I am going to build for a motor. I am thinking I want a long rod 4 mil but I don't know if the cylinders I have now will work because they have already been ported. If I have to get different cyls. I am looking at possibly the Twister small block top end. Right now I am trying to just figure things out, but I can't really start building as I lost my job back in March, so I am just researching different things and see what I can afford. Hell, I was supposed to be just putting my current motor in an a arm frame and then I ended up with another set of cases, so now I am thinking I just want to add a other bike to the stable.

Won't work, on a Banshee the pivot tube at the front is 1 sloid tube all the way across, on a Blaster it is 2 short tubes that sandwich the rear motor mount.