bansheesandrider

You said you put an RZ case in, did you put in a matched upper AND lower case or just one half. If you only replaced half, that is probably where your air leak is. Pressure test your engine for air leaks before you tear it apart again, there is a thread on here to make your own presure tester. Yamaha only sells the cases as a matched set because that is what they are, a MATCHED SET. When you turn off the gas, it will naturally rev up because as it runs out of fuel, the float level goes down in the carb and the mixture goes lean. It shouldn't rev to full throttle and it should die shortly. Good luck.

TORS has nothing to do with the PARK BRAKE rev limiter, that is all done by grounding a wire through the park brake switch for the CDI and Banshees older than 1996 DO NOT have this,it is the green/yellow wire and 96 and older CDIs do not have this wire. All years of Banshees have TORS which stands for Throttle OverRide System and is suppose to kill the ignition if the thumd throttle is in the idle position and the carb slides are not,ie: a stuck throttle. Alot of people have problems with them and do away with them, you have to unhook it if you switch to a twist throttle.

Yamaha only sells them as a set, what's that tell you. After they are cast and initial machining is done they are bolted together and the crank and trans. shaft holes are line bored to their final dimension. So in every set the parting line is slightly different. Some guys mix and match cases and it works OK, but I wouldn't. Banshees dont throw chains if the chain and sprockets are in good shape, all the rollers and guides are in place and the chain is properly adjusted. Replace the stupid roller around the swingarm with a slider from Cascade, TM Designworks, or UPP. Also, make sure your axle bearings are good, the only chain I ever had come off was from bad axle bearings. I would just clean up the breakage and run it.

Sorry for the slow reply, the farm is really busy at this time of year. No, I bought my carrier at Dunefest( in Oregon) several years ago from a shop that was in Battle Ground,WA, but my recent effort to contact them leads me to believe they may have socumed to the economy. I know my loacal ACE hardware store has drawers full of spacers that you should be able to match up and make work. Good Luck.

Mine came with spacers for the caliper bolts.

You said you have a Ricky Stator stator, if you do some research on here, you will see that alot of people think their stators are junk. Some guys have had bad ones right out of the box. Most people recomend staying with OEM. As far as the TORS goes, just unplug everything: both carbs, the thumb throttle, and the little box under the left front corner of the gas tank. Check to make sure there are no melted wires by the pipes, check the resistances in your stator and coil, see if you can borrow a stator,CDI, and coil.

I think it is a great carrier. True, it is not a round housing, but it did not cost 600+ dollars. It looks just like the one I have and mine has tapered(or Timken) bearings.I have had mine for 7 years and have never replaced the bearings. I just give the zerk fitting a little grease after I wash the bike when I get home and check or adjust my axle nut occasionally. I was replacing bearings and seals EVERY YEAR with my stock setup, so IMO this setup has more than paid for itself. I tried OEM, bearing house and auto parts bearings, and I tried replacing the spacer a couple of times. Round housings are over rated, I have more chain adjustment than a round housing with tapered bearings, my carrier has never been stuck in my swingarm from corrosion.

When I put the Toomey/K&N 2 into1 filter on my wife's 96, I had to bump the pilots to 27.5 and I left the mains stock. This was at sea level and everything else on the bike was stock including pipes.

Does the flywheel have the two bumps on it, it should if you are checking the pickup gap? Are the magnet in the flywheel good? If both of these are good it should make spark.

I don't think they do anything to prevent cavitatioin, but they do prevent aeration. You don't want aeration in your float bowl, you want it in your venturi and intake tract. Your jets are supposed to meter fuel, not air. If you have air bubbles in your fuel, how is yourjet going to do a good job of controlling your mixture. It is probably OK to remove them on a drag bike, but I would leave them in on any bike that is ridden on something other than a smooth track.

In most, but not all, cases the kits are made up of individual parts obtained from Sudco/Mikuni and packaged together by the vendor with a tap and maybe a drill bit. So the quality is about the same in all of them.

You will havte to buy the whole thing, I think FAST sells it already modded. Modify your shift star while your in there. ALSO, CHECK YOUR KICK IDLER GEAR, it's the small gear to the left of the clutch basket. If it wobbles on the shaft too much it will flip the snap ring off and send parts thruogh your other gears. You can buy just the bushing from several vendors.

Unbolt the upper steering stem mount, make sure there is not too much play in the lower bearing. Measure between the mount surface and the back of the upper bearing. This is how much the the hoop is bent, when you push it back, go an extra eighth inch or so and then gusset it nicely.

I was just saying that the factory gasket is the same for both sides, one goes on "upside down". I don't know much about those cheap gaskets, I only trust my motors to genuine Yamaha gaskets and have NEVER had a gasket problem with them. Just shows you, you get what you pay for! When I put an engine together, I like to only do it once, so I only use high quality parts. I also like to buy my parts once because every dollar counts and I don't like to walk or eat sand being towed. Now you have my full 10 cents.

Per the factory owners manual, set the dipstick on top of the threads, DO NOT screw it in. The crankcase is a sealed seperate housing that gets it's oil from the oil in your premixed fuel, the dipstick is for transmission oil only.

That is the way the factory gaskets are made also, so I doubt if that is the only reason it blew up. What actually blew up, melted piston, rod let go, crank bearings?Did you properly break it in? Did you make sure the crankcase was clean before you put it together? Did you check for proper piston clearanc and ring gap?Did you change anything else that would require a jetting change? Is it jetted correctly now? Did you check your plugs to see if the mixture is right? I have never done a leak test on a new motor unless there was a problem that showed up after starting, but if you know your bike you should be able to tell if something is not right when you first ride it. If something is wrong, don't keep riding it hoping it will clear up.

If you are going to use stock reeds, then you should probably have the stops. If you are using Boyesen reeds, the instuctions say to remove the stock stops. I have had problems with Boyesen reeds breaking in ported cylinders, and the solution was to install the stock stops.

I would say you are too rich. Get some #30 pilots and start at 340 on the mains and work your way down. I think you will end up with between 300 & 320 for mains.Do a plug chop to verify it's right.

Technically, spark arrestors are required on all public land in Oregon, this is per the website RideATV.Oregon. This being said, I have never seen anybody get busted in the Oregon Dune Recreation Area for not having them, I don't. Also, consult that website about the new ATV Operator Permit requirement that went into effect 01/01/2009. Depending on the ages of your rider's, you may need permits to operate an ATV if you don't have one from your home state. You will definetely want a GPS if you have never been there. Have fun.

There are 3 different CDI boxes, the main difference being the wire harness plugs. So, if you want to splice plugs, you could use any year. Some people say that the timing curve changed over the years, but I don't know for sure. Also, in 97 they added the park brake rev limiter wire, it is green and might have a yellow stripe. The years are as follows: 87-94, 95-96, 97-06.

An 01 stator should have the same plug as the 95 stator. Yamaha only made two stators for the Banshee,87-94 and 95-06. As far as wire harnesses, I am not sure about 87 & 88, but the other years break down as follows: 89-94, 95-96, 97-01, 02-06(US).87 & 88 might use the same harness as 89.

This is 100% correct, the hydrocarbons in gasoline breakdown the RTV silicone sealant. Depending on how good your cases fit(how flat) determines how long tghe RTV will last. On my Banshees I have always used Yamabond, but on other bikes and quads I have used Permatex#2 and threebond(seperately) with no problems.

DEFINETLY weld your crank. When I bought my Banshee new in 89 everybody told me to weld the crank. I ignored them, rode the bike for awhile , put pipes on it, rode it awhile longer and the crank let go. It cost me over $700 to get it fixed doing all the work myself and that was in 1991. All my Banshees since have gotten the crank trued and welded the first thing.

Are you kicking it just one time or are you kicking it until the gauge stops climbing? <ake sure you thouroghly inspect your bores and pistons while the head is off, look for excessive piston clearance and surface condition of the cylinder. Iknow Yamaha recomends changing pistons and rings quite often but you should get more than 40 hours out of it, I am going on 200 hrs. on mine and I started with 175 and am down to 170. All this being said, I do think your numbers are low. Pull yor head off, inspect it, and if everything looks good, put the new head on and recheck it. Good luck.

Hopefully you paid by credit card, if so, just call your card, tell them you did not receive what you ordered and you want the charges reversed. Of course, I would try getting Cascade to correct it first. Sometimes, like when they are busy or things aren't going good in the shop, they are not very helpful on the phone, but if you bug them enough they will usually make it right.