bansheesandrider

Have you done a plug chop to verify jetting? You need to get your choke plunger working properly. Also, did you get the float bowls mixed up between the two carb? Each bowl is different inside and the difference is in the choke circuit. Do you have the little rubber hose between the carbs that is directly inlinr with the choke plunger?

I was riding at Sandlake years ago, I came on a spot where a buggy had been cutting donuts and I hit the brakes instead of getting on the gas and carrying the front end through it. I got bounced around, my right foot came off the peg and got sucked into the back tire(89 Banshee that did not come with foot guards). The tire pulled me off the bike and as I came off the right footpeg scraped up my right leg to the top, across my nuts and then down my left leg as I got pulled under the bike and ran over. The bike then shot up in the air and rolled in mid air,when it came down it cracked the frame above the footpeg mount. I ended up with raspberries on my nuts and sore muscles in my groin and a ripped pair of Levis.

I have 2 running Banshees, 1 frame and cases that I am building from the ground up, and a Blaster for my kid. I would stay with the Banshee, you are familiar with them,they are cheap compared to the four strokes and you won't have to carry as many spare parts, plus if they are similar vintage you can rob parts from one to troubleshoot the other.

I know some Honda ATV engines are made in China. Let us know about the radiator when you get it,also how long it takes to get here.

The idle is controlled by the air screw, the pilot affects from OFF idle to somewhere between 1/4 to1/2 throttle. If it seems boggy from off idle until it comes on the pipe, you need to change your pilot jet. You should definetly read the stikies in jetting and learn how a carb works,alot of two stroke problems are related to a jetting problem, including longevity.

I would definetly weld the crank, mine let go when all I had done was a set of pipes and paddles. Yamaha says the crank does not need to be welded on a STOCK bike, but if it is modified then the crank should be welded. Yamaha considers paddle tires to be modified, they denied me warranty when I took the bike in with paddles on it, I had taken the pipes off and put the stockers back on. If you are a light weight person or don't ride aggressively you might get away with not welding it, but I would not chance it. If the crank lets go it will damage alot of parts: cylinders, pistons, head,possibly cases. Depending on how bad, some of it can be repaired and some of it will have to be replaced.

This is ome of the reasons the factory manual is better, there are excellent drawings of all the cable, hose and wiring harness routings in the back of the factory manual. Unfotunately I can't upload anything for you as my computer crashed and I am on my parents computer.

You don't need big bore domes, you won't need them until you get above 66mm. You need to check your squish because you cut your head, which brings the dome closer to the head and can cause problems. A machine shop will need to rechamber the head if the squish is to tight.

My 89 runs the H6Ms, i've owned it since it was brand new so I know they are original. Most parts lookups say all of them were H6M.

Get the correct flange nut from Yamaha and torque it to spec properly with loctite on the threads. While you are ordering the nut, also order a new flywheel key so yiu know everything is as it should be. I would also get a service manual for it so you have all the specs. Alot of guys on here prefer the Clymers manual, but I prefer the OEM Yamaha book myself. The Clymers is cheaper, but the Yamaha shows all the specs, where to use loctite and other recomendations. REMEMBER< IT IS ALWAYS CHEAPER TO DO IT CORRECT THE FIRST TIME, than it is to do it wrong once and have to redo it again.

My 89 has glass, my buddy's 02 are plastic. I think the change was made in the late 90's, i think they also change the way the grilles attach at the same time, becuase I was able to just pop the grille off my 89's

There is a plastic bushing in the ball joint that will melt if cured in an oven, it is what the ball pivots on. Once it melts you will have excessive clearance in the joint and there is no way to repair them. Some guys say you can cure it with a heat lamp, but I don't know about doing it that way.The only thing you can do with stock arms is paint or chrome them. I always thouight it was stupid to chrome arms with 1/2 wore out ball joints, so if I was going to chrome them, I would do it to new ones. If you get new arms with replaceable ball joints, then you can do whatever you want to them and only have to replace the ball joint instead of the arm when the ball joint wears out.

I run a +4 on a well built 350 and I love it. I have a buddy that has a even more built 350 that he has a +6 on and when I rode it I couldn't get the front end up when I needed it to. If you are going to be riding the open dunes I would go with the +4, but if you are going to be doing tree shots, hillclimbing or drag racing then I would go with the +6.

A lockout does not replace the clutch(friction and steel) plates, it replaces the clutch pressure plate. If the clutch you have now is not slipping, I would get a set of heavier springs to put in is all. Inspect the friction and steel plates while you are in there. You did not list any pipes in your mods, that should be the first mod you make to a Banshee. Loose tie rods won't CAUSE a vibration but they will amplify out so it seems worse, when does the vibration occur? I wouldn't do a bigger tank unless you actually NEED it, are you going on rides long enough to run out of fuel or having to carry extra fuel? If not I would forget the tank. If you have the clutch cover off, do the impeller. Get your swingarm fixed up, including a good chain slider instead of the pivot roller thing. I don't know what you are thinking Works will do for $100, I think a basic rebuild is more than that. In short, I would get anything that is wore out, loose or damaged fixed BEFORE i started making the thing faster. If you already have pipes, it looks like the next mod you should do to the engine is porting, but if you have the cylinders off make sure your pistons, rings and bores are in good shape.

I tried the 9V trick also, it made no difference. It would even reset with the tach lead unhooked and removed from the bike. As far as the tach, I had a hard time reading it when I was just riding the bike around my open field behind the house, if I was in the dunes I figured that it would be more important to watch were I was going than looking at a tach. If I don't know when to shift it after riding it for 20 years, I should probably get rid of it. Now if I was drag racing it and thought a tach would improve consistency, I would go for it in a heartbeat. I think the Vector without the tach is great, but like I said, I mainly wanted a temp gauge, hourmeter for maintainence, and the speedo is great for speed runs on the flats at Florence.

If I am not mistaken, in the factory head and the good cool heads, the front part of the head is divided from the rear part of the head and the coolant has to go down into the cylinders, circulate around them and then rise back inti the head to flow to the radiator. But then again, I could be wrong.

I have never replaced a leaking seal on my Banshee either, because I use OEM. The only seals and gaskets I have had to replace were the one I needed when I tore it apart for something else. BUT, there are alot of people on here complaing about leaking head gaskets, crank seals, water pump seals, and countershaft seals. I know a guy with an 89 that still has the original seals in it, he has reused them twice and no problems. I myself would not do this, but he did and I think this says alot about the quality of Yamaha seals. If you know anything about seals, and look at how Yamaha seals are designed, you will see they are far superior to the standard bearing house or auto parts store seals. Everybody is entitled to use whatever they want and I think OEM is the best way to go in this case, if you go to the places I listed in the first post, you can get them for a reasonable price that is probably not much more than the aftermarket ones.

I prefer the genuine OEM Yamaha seals and gaskets, I have NEVER had a problem with them. I have seen the yamaha seals work on some pretty grooved shafts. I always figured it was cheaper to buy one set of Yamaha seals and gaskets than it was to buy two sets of inferior parts. Cascade and several other places sell OEM stuff, but the best deal I have found is a place called Apache Motorcycles in the Phoenix, AZ metro area. They used to be called Yamaha Suzuki of Arizona, but I think they got bought out or merged with Apache. Another place is Cheap Cycle Parts on the web, they are usually a few pennies higher but you might save on shipping. Apache is on the web also.

If you are doing an impeller, go with the Mull unit, it presses onto the stock shaft. I just pulled an impeller out of a cover I bought on Ebay and it was really grooved. I don't know what brand it was but it is not stock, and it is not Mull. I have never seen a stock shaft with a groove in it and I have seen several high hour bikes, including my 89, and it still looks good.

I have the SandStars on my bike, before that I had the GBC imitation Razorbacks. I did not notice any difference between the Sand Tires Unlimited tires and the GBC tires, but the ITP SandStars were a huge difference compared to those two. i am running 8 paddle haulers on the rear.

The PIAA bulbs are considered a stock replacement bulb and will work with the stock stator. Theyproduce a much brighter light. As for as removing the grilles it depends on the year of bike, some yeasr you can pry the ring and grille off and some years you have to cut. it does make a difference on the amount of light they put out.

Do you have clean bare metal on the frame ears where the coil bolts on? This is the ground for the coil and since bolting on a differentcoil seems to help, I thought maybe you get a good ground when you put it on but then overnight the corrosion sets in.

Sure you could buy three Ricky Stator units but you still may not get a good one= guys on here have been having problems with them right out of the box. Plus there is the fact that you might get stranded miles from nowhere. It seems the older RS stuff was OK, but a few years ago they switched to a China manufacturer and it has been crap ever since. On to the original problem- since you are snowed in, all you can do is go over your wire harness, pull your flywheel and inspect everything in the stator and flywheel, reinstall your flywheel and set your pickup coil gap, check all your grounds and connections. When you can get access to a meter you can ohm out everything and if it all checks OK, find another CDI box to try. I would buy a used OEM CDI or stator off Ebay before I would buy a new aftermarket one.

Has any body dealt with them lately? I heard rumors that they were being investigated for trafficking in stolen parts, right after I heard this they closed their shop in Portland and moved out to the sticks.

Will it start if you tow it- I had a Rick's Electrics CDI box fail on me. I could start it if I towed it or I could kick start it if it was warm, eventually I could only get it to start by towing it. I checked out everything with a meter and determined it was a bad CDI, swapped it with another and it fired right up. Called Rick's, sent it back to them and they did replace it since it was less thasn 3 months old, even though there was no warranty on it. I had bought it while I was at St. Anthony's Dunes because it was the only thing that I could get before we left. Because of thie expierence and what I have heard on here I would only recomend a OEM Yamaha stator,CDI, or flywheel, posssibly a Dyna FS cdi. I firmly believe you get what you pay for when it comes to electrical stuff.